But I manage to get by with my 4x Opti Visor, two 1.7x ring-light magnifiers, a 5x hand loupe, a 10x jeweler’s loupe and a 17x geologist’s magnifier, and lots of light.

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Having said all of the above, I do have a number of modeling friends who really like the inexpensive drug-store magnified “reading glasses.” These might be worth checking out (especially since you can just walk into the drug store and try them on).

Much light is differentiated by polarization, e.g. light passing through crystals like sunstones (calcite) or water droplets producing rainbows. The polarization of the rainbow is caused by the internal reflection. The rays strike the back surface of the drop close to the Brewster angle.[6]

I have one similar to SableLiger’s; I think mine is an Optivisor or a knock-off. It came with a set of different magnification inserts depending on your needs.

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Light reflected from a non-metallic surface becomes polarized; this effect is maximum at Brewster's angle, about 56° from the vertical for common glass. A polarizer rotated to pass only light polarized in the direction perpendicular to the reflected light will absorb much of it. This absorption allows glare reflected from, for example, a body of water or a road to be reduced. Reflections from shiny surfaces (e.g. vegetation, sweaty skin, water surfaces, glass) are also reduced. This allows the natural color and detail of what is beneath to come through. Reflections from a window into a dark interior can be much reduced, allowing it to be seen through. (The same effects are available for vision by using polarizing sunglasses.)

Some companies make adjustable neutral density filters by having two linear polarizing layers. When they are at 90° to each other, they let almost zero light in, admitting more as the angle decreases.

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I never found myself using the smaller lens on the swivel, and it in fact eventually broke off from being rammed into my work light when leaning forward.

Use of a polarizing filter, in the correct direction, will filter out the polarized component of skylight, darkening the sky; the landscape below it, and clouds, will be less affected, giving a photograph with a darker and more dramatic sky, and emphasizing the clouds.[4] Perpendicularly incident light waves tend to reduce clarity and saturation of certain colors, which increases haziness. The polarizing lens effectively absorbs these light waves, rendering outdoor scenes crisper with deeper color tones in subject matter such as blue skies, bodies of water and foliage.[5]

I’ve been doing ok so far whilst building 1:35 armor. However the Takom Hetzer full interior kit has me thinking about more help to see the tiny parts which challenge these 91 year old eyes… I currently use one of those magnifiers thats on a huge boom and can swivel… etc. It doesn’t give me room to work under it when I really really need it. Perhaps a set of magnifying eyeglasses. that focus at 12-14". That’ll let me see and still swing tools around.

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Polarizing filters reduce the light passed through to the film or sensor by about one to three stops (2–8×) depending on how much of the light is polarized at the filter angle selected. Auto-exposure cameras will adjust for this by widening the aperture, lengthening the time the shutter is open, and/or increasing the ASA/ISO speed of the camera. Polarizing filters can be used deliberately to reduce available light and allow use of wider apertures to shorten depth of field for certain focus effects.

I finally pulled the trigger on a pair of genuine Optivisors with a couple of different magnification power lenses. As @flatfour observes, the lenses are glass and so are nearly impervious to scratches and anything I’ve every splashed on them has wiped and cleaned away with no problems.

Linear polarizing filters can be easily distinguished from circular polarizers. In linear polarizing filters, the polarizing effect works (rotate to see differences) regardless of which side of the filter the scene is viewed from. In "circular" polarizing filters, the polarizing effect works when the scene is viewed from the male threaded (back) side of the filter, but does not work when looking through it backwards.

@corsutton Hits the mark here. I have reader magnifier eyeglasses from +2 to +6 that I use for all my modeling. I keep them lined up at the back of my bench and just switch among them when I need more or less magnification. They are much lighter and less claustrophobic than a visor and you can easily look over them to locate tools / read instructions. They let in more light. They’re cheaper than an Optivisor, too. You can order a whole set online from any number of sources or find them at the dollar store.

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Polarizing filters can be rotated to maximize or minimize admission of polarized light. They are mounted in a rotating collar for this purpose; one need not screw or unscrew the filter to adjust the effect. Rotating the polarizing filter will make rainbows, reflections, and other polarized light stand out or nearly disappear depending on how much of the light is polarized and the angle of polarization.

Once you get used to wearing them, you’ll never work without them again. First thing I do when I walk into my workroom is to put them on and taking them off is the last thing I do before turning out the lights.

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However, they’re cheap because their lenses are plastic. My problem with them was that I either wound up scratching them (always in a spot directly in front of my eyes!) or I splashed a drop or two of some solvent-based paint, glue, filler, etc. on them which etched permanent defects.

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The benefits of polarizing filters are the same in digital or film photography. While software post-processing can simulate many other types of filter, a photograph does not record the light polarization, so the effects of controlling polarization at the time of exposure cannot be replicated in software.

Some of the light coming from the sky is polarized (bees use this phenomenon for navigation[2]). The electrons in the air molecules cause a scattering of sunlight in all directions. This explains why the sky is not dark during the day. But when looked at from the sides, the light emitted from a specific electron is totally polarized.[3] Hence, a picture taken in a direction at 90 degrees from the sun can take advantage of this polarization. Actually, the effect is visible in a band of 15° to 30° measured from the optimal direction.

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Screenshot_20240223-0830011080×2460 137 KB Have the this pair. $15.95. + shipping. They have bright led lights that are rechargeable. Work great with my reading glasses . interchangeable. Lens.

If you wear glasses, then ones like SableLiger recommended are great, as they fit down over your prescription glasses. If you don’t wear prescription glasses then look for “cheaters”, “readers”, whatever you want to call them. The higher the number, the more magnification. I use 1.5 for reading and computer work. I use 3.5 for model working. I think you can get them as high as 6.0, check Amazon.

There are two types of polarizing filters readily available, linear and circular, which have exactly the same effect photographically. But the metering and auto-focus sensors in certain cameras, including virtually all auto-focus single-lens reflex cameras (SLRs), will not work properly with linear polarizers because the beam splitters used to split off the light for focusing and metering are polarization-dependent. Linearly-polarized light may also defeat the action of the anti-aliasing filter (low-pass filter) on the imaging sensor.

Use your experience with the magnification and working distance you get with the cheap ones to select and buy the appropriate ground-glass magnification power lens plate (or plates). You don’t need to buy the entire Optivisor boxed set with all of the available lens plates at once. You can buy them individually, as needed.

For modern cameras, a circular polarizer (CPL) is typically used, which has a linear polarizer that performs the artistic function just described, followed by a quarter-wave plate, which further transforms the linearly polarized light into circularly-polarized light. The circular polarization avoids problems with autofocus and the light-metering sensors in some cameras, which otherwise may not function reliably with only a linear polarizer.

A polarizing filter or polarising filter (see spelling differences) is a filter that is often placed in front of a camera lens in photography in order to darken skies, manage reflections, or suppress glare from the surface of lakes or the sea. Since reflections (and sky-light) tend to be at least partially linearly-polarized, a linear polarizer can be used to change the balance of the light in the photograph. The rotational orientation of the filter is adjusted for the preferred artistic effect.

Circular polarizing photographic filters consist of a linear polarizer on the front, with a quarter-wave plate on the back. The quarter-wave plate converts the selected polarization to circularly polarized light inside the camera. This works with all types of cameras, because mirrors and beam-splitters split circularly polarized light the same way they split unpolarized light.[7]