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air assist may be a problem, try with and without. in my case, what works ok is a little air, and a lot of space between the nozzle and the paper (i use an engraving nozzle) so fumes are ousted, but there is not a lot of air that could start a flame. but a lot of high pressure air might also work, be carefull for small pieces that can be blown out.

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Not really, you can post inline images here using your OS copy (CTRL+C) and paste (CTRL+V) or by clicking this to upload:

you can get good result provided that your laser can cut through without too much reflection, so what does NOT work is cutting on a flat surface : use a honeycomb or small parts to ensure there is space below the paper.

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when you open it in Light burn it changes the dimensions. (I want the project to open with the dimensions that have been saved)

distance di from the lens. 4) Calculate the magnification in two ways using mh= hi/ho (experimental) and md= –di/do (theoretical). Find the percent error. 5 ...

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That would depend on the power of your laser and the type, thickness and potentially the color of the “paper”. Share a bit more and we might be able to direct better.

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first, “paper” is not a real indication… if you find settings that are fine for one type of paper, there is no indication it will work for another brand/color/texture, …

I don’t use any air assist at all. And I use as little power as possible. I also don’t go real fast, because I am more concerned with accuracy. You would have to find a happy medium between power and speed, but I would start with the least amount of power to get cleanly thru the paper.

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going at high speed is an idea than mainly does not work : the laser HAS to slow when handling corners, so you have to play with min/max power to avoid burning the corners. going at relatively slow speed without much power variation gives you results that are more repeatable.

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