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If the images with a given filter or filter stack can deliver a pitch black UV-signature, and the stack can give images with normal UV-yellow flowers I see it as an OK UV-image.

It could be compared with some geographic state or nation borders that was defined using a ruler. Often the landscape on both sides is quite similar.

@Andrea B.thanks for the clarification. So the AU2 doesn't require more work - good to know. Losing one of its main advantages - speed, it is tough to find a reason to pick it over the others. One other thing that comes to mind is a single filter that is thin and less likely to vignette on wide angle lenses. Guess some people might consider less false color a plus.

I've always tried to distinguish between UV artistic and UV documentary efforts. All the filters and stacks which we discuss and use here on UVP are giving you a reflected UV photo. There might be a greater or lesser degree of "contamination" with bits of violet or green or low IR from a given filter or stack, but the only place where purity of wavelength is a serious requirement would be in a scientific lab situation. So we should enjoy all the filters we use knowing that we have seen part-way into the Invisible realm. So cool!!

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I might not have made it clear that there were the same number of "steps" taken in Photo Ninja to convert all 4 of the UV-pass examples. The only difference between the initial conversion of the initial example of the 3A/AndreaU Mk-II and the second example was a change in one existing step! In the first conversion I set the PN saturation slider to Plain/60. In the second conversion I set the PN saturation slider to Plain/100. I don't want to give the impression that any of the conversions I presented are necessarily optimal and/or complete should one want to produce a finished product suitable for printing and framing. We always give printable files a bit more spit & polish, yes?

I think the statement about rainy days is about the SEU-filters that takes advantage of the sensor's higher sensitivity close to 400nm.

Very true, I may have been starting to get obsessed with perfect lens condition with the tear down and cleaning of my Nikkor 80's and wanting only below 400nm, when the Baader  brings the sharpest image, and is the fastest filter I've used. Less testing, more enjoying taking shots.

However these lines are drawn in a gradual transition range where human vision tapers of. That change is not an abrupt change.

I did not see a very big exposure time improvement with my SEU-filter, But it gives an interesting tonality, especially with flowers that have bluish false colours.

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One of the reasons is that I take pictures with many different filters and filter stacks, of the same motif,  to explore reflectance variations for different wavelengths in more detail.

A general remark about reflected UV file conversions:  Hey, if I have to spend more than 2 minutes on the conversion part, then forget it! The core work of UV file conversion lies in getting a good white balance made* and then stored as a preset. After that it is just a few clicks on any file for which that prestored WB is usable.

HOWEVER, I do share the feeling with others that this current AndreaU Mk-II is a bit slow. And that the description of the AU-II on UVR Optics is not accurate, given the results we've just seen here. I just don't think the AU-II I used in these examples is quite like the one which I tested in 2016.

Blocking further into VIS, and especially into NIR is a completely different thing as bad blocking here can give contamination.

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The wavelengths at 400nm and even 380nm, at some places, are used scientifically to define where UV starts and VIS begins. That is undeniable.

The AU2 site talks about really robust blocking above 400nm. They say this helps when making long exposures on low UV or even rainy days! Is there any truth in this?

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Thanks @Andrea B. for this test. My favorite turned out to be the Baader I own. The other ones really surprised me though, didn't call any of them. As a side note I have my S8612 now to test with some Chinese zwb 1 and 2's I have, and really liking what I got with the  ZWB1 2mm?/S8612 2mm. I know that ZWB1 filter might not be accurate, but pretty sure it lets less from the upper range through as there's way less purple than the Baader. I need to get out after cleaning both my Nikkor 80's to find the best one out of them.

@Andy Perrinfor preset LUT's, I use Affinity photo and it makes it really easy to make your own for any given color scene you encounter with different stacks/conditions. I'm sure the other editors do it too.

The AU2 is AFAIK a glued ionic stack of some kind recommended as a better alternative for wide angle lenses as it is not dichroic.

@Andrea B. 3a definitely looks better with your editing. But, it takes a lot of adjustment to get there. If I already owned it, I would do the extra work. Don't see an advantage now. The Hoya U 360/ Schott S8612 has better color out of the camera, isn't dichroic, and is brighter than the AU2. If your AU2 is representive of current stock, the filter doesn't meet their claims of being brighter than the Baader U.

The AU2 site talks about really robust blocking above 400nm. They say this helps when making long exposures on low UV or even rainy days! Is there any truth in this?