We call the lowest possible aperture setting of your lens ‘wide open’ and we call high f-stop numbers ‘closing down your lens’.

By opening up your aperture and getting very close to objects to use them as a foreground, you can create this beautiful, colourful foreground blur. It works especially well with flowers and plants, as they often have nice colours. Look for colourful trees in autumn, or colourful flowers in spring/summer. Open up your aperture to the max, get close to the foreground and create this magic effect!

So when we want to use a very shallow depth of field, we need to open up our aperture and use a low number, for example f/2.8.

For astrophotography, we'll often use wide angle lenses with an aperture of f/2.8. However, we can’t use a shutter speed that is too long, due to the fact that it will make the stars trail in relation to the rotation of the Earth.

Shooting in Aperture priority works great during daytime shooting. Let the camera measure the light and don’t care too much about shutter speeds when there is enough light available. Photo by: 'Albert Dros'.

Aperture blades determine how much light comes through your lens. So simply put: The aperture controls the amount of light that comes through your lens.

When we’re photographing in the evening or night and it’s dark, using a smaller aperture often results in a very long shutter speed to get a properly exposed image. Now, if we’re shooting images from a tripod, this is not that big of a problem, unless we are getting extremely long shutter speeds of let’s say 5 to 10 minutes.

It's the same thing when photographing the aurora. Open up your lens to let in as much light as possible, preferably f/2.8 or faster.

In portraits, you often see beautiful blurry backgrounds. These are achieved with large apertures to create a shallow depth of field. That’s why good portrait lenses are often prime lenses (they cannot zoom) with a big aperture.

Sphericalaberration formula

A wide open aperture creates a beautiful, blurry, out of focus area in your picture. You can use this in the foreground for example, when getting very close to a subject, such as grass. By using an open aperture, you can get a blurry out of focus foreground, leading you into the background.

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On a lot of modern lenses, the whole aperture scale is not even displayed anymore. Being fully electronic, you set the aperture right inside the camera. But a lot of lenses still display their numbers on the lens, especially cinema lenses.

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What issphericalaberration and How can it be corrected

A lens performs quite bad very closed down at an aperture of f/22. We get a lot of diffraction on closed down apertures. Also, keep in mind that wide open a lens also can get a little bit soft.

noun A process or state in which rays of light exhibit different properties in different directions, especially the state in which all the vibration takes place ...

Aperture also affects sharpness, but in a different way. Lenses perform best at their ‘sweet spot’. With performance, we mean where the lens is at its sharpest. Sharpest meaning where all the lines and parts with contrast are the sharpest, not the focus plane of the photo!

Try switching to Aperture Priority mode first. This setting lets you control control the aperture and the camera determines the right shutter speed to get a properly exposed photo. This is very handy in terms of speed and lots of professional photographers use the Aperture Priority mode in the field, simply because shutter speeds during the day don’t matter that much.

In this issue of JOVR, a double-blind randomized controlled trial conducted by Jafarinasab et al16 compares spherical aberration and contrast sensitivity among 3 different types of aspheric IOLs (Tecnis, Akreos AO, and Acrysof IQ) and one spherical IOL (Sensar). Significantly higher spherical aberration was reported with the spherical IOL and the zero-aberration aspheric IOL as compered to the negative aberration aspheric IOLs, however this advantage was pupil-size dependent. With increased pupil size from 4 to 6 mm, an increase in spherical aberration was observed for all four types of IOLs, however significantly more with the spherical IOL. Contrast sensitivity function under mesopic conditions and at low spatial frequencies (1.5 to 3 cpd) was significantly higher in the Tecnis group as compared to the others. At higher spatial frequencies (12 to 18 cpd), Acrysof IQ worked significantly better. The authors concluded that the performance of aspheric IOLs is pupil dependent and that their function deteriorates to some extent under mesopic conditions, as there was no significant difference between spherical and aspheric IOLs in mesopic contrast sensitivity at 6 cpd.

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So why is it called a stop? Simply put: it’s an aperture setting that limits the light coming into the lens. It limits the brightness of an image by restricting the input pupil size. Basically, it stops the light.

For this image, a 55mm f/1.8 lens was used. Primes are faster than zooms in general, making them great for using shorter shutter speeds at night. If you require a relatively fast shutter speed at night, like in this case an erupting volcano (if you use a long shutter speed you will lose the texture of lava and smoke), use a fast prime lens. The same goes for aurora shots. This image is about a 6 second exposure, taken wide open at f/1.8.

Sphericalaberration in a lens

In some outside situations: control your aperture to get a nice background blur, but keep in mind to make it not too blurred out so you can’t see the environment anymore. Photo by: 'Albert Dros'.

About the author:  Albert Dros is a landscape photographer based in the Netherlands. You can find more of his work on his website or by following him on Facebook and Instagram.

Sphericalaberration diagram

Although this study is a well-designed clinical trial with interesting results, the readers should keep in mind that the best way to compare two groups with analysis of variance (ANOVA) is using post hoc tests such as Bonferroni adjustment of type one error. This is one of the reasons for discrepancies in the results among different studies. Another explanation could be different measurement protocols.

Big zoom lenses are often ‘slow lenses’. They’re able to use big apertures simply because that would make them even bigger, needing much more glass and also very expensive. That’s why, for example, a 400mm f/2.8 or 600mm f/4 lens is very big, heavy and expensive.

With these lenses, you can’t get a very shallow depth of field, simply because you can’t use big apertures. In landscapes, it's often important to get both foreground and background in focus so we tend to use smaller apertures of around f/8 to f/14.

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What issphericalaberration in Physics

Obviously, when you have a big opening on your lens, lots of light can go through at once and if you have a very small opening it’s the opposite. This is what we call a ‘big or large’ and ‘small’ aperture. Remember this: a BIG aperture lets in a BIG amount of light, a SMALL aperture lets in a SMALL amount of light. So how does this translate into our camera settings?

When you’re just starting out with photography it’s important to know how your camera works. Aperture is an important part of the exposure triangle (shutter speed, ISO and aperture). It partly determines the exposure (how light your photo is going to be) of your photograph.

This introduction to aperture guide should hopefully get you started quickly with the concept of aperture. And remember, practise makes perfect. Keep shooting and this will get easy very quickly!

If you buy a ‘standard’ camera with a kit lens, these lenses don’t have big apertures. They have a standard zoom range with smaller apertures, to keep the lens small, cheap and not too heavy with glass.

Spherical aberration in the human eye is a combination of the positive spherical aberration of the cornea,1–3 and the negative spherical aberration of the crystalline lens.4,5 In young eyes, the positive spherical aberration of the cornea is compensated by the negative spherical aberration of the lens; as a result, overall spherical aberration in the young eye is low.2,3,6 As the eye ages, the optical properties of the crystalline lens change,4,7 resulting in overall positive spherical aberration2,8,9 and decreased optical performance. Spherical aberrations generally reduce the contrast of the retinal image10,11 and affect visual performance, especially under mesopic conditions.12

Using an open aperture for low light photography with moving subjects will help to keep your shutter speed fast enough in order to get the correct exposure.

Sphericalaberration and chromatic aberration

Aperture affects depth of field and partially: sharpness. When we use an open aperture (which lets in a lot of light) the effect is a more shallow depth of field. At a closed down aperture the depth of field is much bigger.

This shot was made by getting super far away from the subject and then zooming in to the maximum with an open aperture. It was shot at 400mm f/5.6 (wide open for that lens). By doing this, you can compress the scene and also get that beautiful background blur that really separates the subject and makes it pop within the image.

Another creative way landscape photographers often use apertures are so-called sunstars. When the sun is touching an edge of for example the horizon or a building, it starts to look like a star in a photograph.

Aperture is one of the most important settings when taking your picture. It determines the amount of light, the depth of field and the sharpness of a picture.

To try and shoot a sunstar, use a small aperture of around f/14 to f/22. This means you close down your lens a lot. It makes sense if you think about it. By closing down your lens, the designs of the blades shapes how the light is coming through them, projecting the sunstar in your image. Try it out!

By getting close to a foreground like flowers or grass and using a wide aperture you can create dreamy foregrounds. Photo by: 'Albert Dros'.

If you’re interested in portraits and want a starting out lens with not extremely high price tags, look at prime lenses (you can’t zoom with them). For example, a 50mm f/2 is cheap and delivers great portrait results. Or an 85mm f/2.

Skilled photographers almost always tell you to use the MANUAL mode on your camera. When you start out with photography you tend to use the automatic settings of your camera. Switching to Manual mode is often scary!

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There are several studies comparing different types of spherical and aspheric IOLs under various conditions and with varying protocols. The readers should be careful about applying the results and accepting them as general rules.

Knowing how to use aperture is very important. But it’s not difficult. By using aperture priority on your camera you very quickly get the feel of it.

The aperture of your lens is displayed in f-numbers, the so called f-stop. You’ve probably seen it around when controlling your camera. F-stop numbers often range from numbers like f/2.8 (or lower) to f/22 (or higher). The lower the f-stop, the bigger the amount of light your lens lets in.

The effect of a sunstar depends on the characteristics of a lens and how the aperture blades are designed. Some lenses have a beautiful sunstars while kit lenses often have a sunstar that is very generic or even ‘boring.’

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Coma aberration

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Hi all, I saw on a video recently an ND filter calculator app which looked pretty cool BUT it was only for android.

The sweet spot of a lens is different for every lens. There are so called ‘MTF-charts’ available online where you can check at what apertures a lens performs at its best. In general, these are around f/8.

When a camera takes a photo, the shutter mechanism opens, light comes on to the sensor after which the shutter closes again. When the lens hits the sensor and you have a lens attached to your camera, the light goes through the lens first.

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As mentioned above, for landscape photography and when using wide angle lenses, we often use an aperture of around f/8 to f/14, simply because we have a big focus plane and a good performing lens around that aperture. But that doesn’t mean you should always go for these apertures.

Just be careful that you don’t overuse these big apertures. Sometimes, the depth of field can be so shallow that only certain parts of the face will be in focus and others are not. While this is sometimes a preferred result, it can also be over doing it!

So now that we know that aperture influences the amount of light that you’re capturing with your camera, how does it actually translate visually in your photographs?

The lenscalculator calculates the Focal length of the lens, based on the desired Field of View (FOV), working distance (WD) and image sensor size.

Depending on the focal length of your lens, experiment with your aperture. If you’re taking portraits outside and have a nice scene as a background, sometimes you don’t want to completely blur this out. So experiment with different apertures and see in which one the background is nice and smooth, but not completely blurred out.

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Sphericalaberration example

In the dark, we prefer to use a bit of a faster aperture. Of course, especially when we’re shooting hand held or doing street photography, a fast aperture with a higher ISO (another article for this) are necessary to get a properly exposed image without unsharp movement.

Do not mistake this with getting a ‘sharper’ photo. The definition of sharpness is something different. More on that soon.

When we’re using a wide angle with foreground elements, we tend to use smaller apertures from around f/8 to f/14. This image was taken at 16mm, f/11, 1/60s, ISO 100 from a tripod. Photo by: 'Albert Dros'.

In this image clever use of stopping down the aperture was used and framing the sun just in between the 2 trees. For these kind of images you have to be fast because the sun is constantly moving. By using a tripod (it can be a bit dark in the forest) and putting your aperture at f/16 or narrower, you can create these beautiful sunstars in the forest. Like mentioned before, it really depends on the characteristics of your lens how your sunstar will turn out. This clean star is a nice property of the Tamron 28-75 Sony FE lens (shot at f/16).

The bigger the aperture (smaller the number), the more light comes in and the smaller depth of field you get. This is useful for portraits. In landscapes when we want a lot of things in focus, we often use a smaller aperture (high f-stop number).

Advancements in cataract surgery and intraocular lens (IOL) design have optimized the postoperative optical performance of the pseudophakic eye. One of the recent spotlights of IOL design has been formulating optical properties similar to a clear, young lens and addressing spherical aberration.

Conventional spherical IOLs increase the positive spherical aberration in the eye following cataract extraction.13,14 In 2002, an aspheric IOL design was introduced to compensate for the positive spherical aberration of the cornea.15 Aspheric IOLs have been designed with an anterior prolate suface (Tecnis, Advanced Medical Optics), a posterior prolate surface (Acrysof IQ, Alcon Laboratories), or with both anterior and posterior prolate surfaces (Akreos AO, SofPort AO and L161 AO, Bausch & Lomb) and compensate for corneal spherical aberration to varying degrees.

In portraits, we use a big aperture because we want a blurry background that is not distracting. Shallow depth of field is often pleasing to look at. That’s why we prefer to use a lens that allows us to use these apertures.

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