Usb 3 cameraamazon

I’ve been using this accessory for months. But within 24 hours of starting this thread and opening the Bug Report, this popped up. Coincidence?

Not sure what to make of this, or the new firmware update. But any clicks don’t make me happy, and I’ll stick with the unpowered adapter until further notice!

I’m going to reach out to Zoom and see if the device supports being bus-powered in the first place. If it doesn’t, then I can use the MagSafe idea to power the iPhone, ditch this troublesome adapter (maybe get my money back), and try to find some other solution to powering the Zoom.

But to your point, maybe, even though nothing is plugged into the power port of this adapter, the adapter is still polling the power port, and doing so in a way that interrupts the flow of audio? That is in line with my general hypothesis. Hopefully there’s a smart engineer at Apple looking into this now :-)

I originally bought this to use with a different Audio Interface, a USB-bus-powered Presonus. Since my iPhone couldn’t provide enough power to the PreSonus, I had to find a way to inject power into the same USB port that was delivering audio data to my iPhone. That’s when I discovered this adapter, and it worked perfectly. The Presonus powered up and the audio data passed to the iPhone. I made this entire demo clip using that setup:

Maybe I wasn’t quick enough, but the player link isn’t working for me. But whether or not I can hear clicks, your ears are the important ones here (and likely much younger and more accurate than mine anyway).

Now that we have explored how both Non-Glare and Ant-reflective glass are produced, let’s look at their typical applications.  The matrix below can help steer you in the right direction when deciding between Anti-Reflective and Non-Glare Glass.

Okay, here’s the result, noting that I apparently have new firmware installed for this USB connector since the previous tests.

…audible interruptions in an audio signal generated when someone touches a (typically unshielded) cable and discharges static electricity into it. (Since we’ve just started winter, I’m hearing this a lot in recent days from the “fellow kids.”)

But also, I was wondering about matching bitrates before, but I can’t find any setting in the Camera app that lets me control bitrate. Any idea if that’s an option? I also purchased ProMovie, which has lots of options, but bitrate is not one of them.

Not sure if this helps but in digital recording ALL devices need to be set to the same bit rate. If the Zoom recording is at 48kHz and the iPhone is set for 44.1 kHz you will get digital clicks.

Fast-forward, and I bought this Zoom H6, which is a really cool product with a ton more capabilities. But it does chew through sets of 4 AA batteries. What I haven’t figured out is whether this is providing bus-power to the Zoom, like I did with the PreSonus.

USB Camera4K

Those clicks (they’re clearly audible and, yes, would annoy the bajeezus out of me) sound a lot like “static pops,” which are audible interruptions in an audio signal generated when someone touches a (typically unshielded) cable and discharges static electricity into it. (Since we’ve just started winter, I’m hearing this a lot in recent days from the “fellow kids.”)

The jargon of the glass industry is not always clear when it comes to anti-reflective glass.  The terms anti-reflective glass and non-glare glass are often used interchangeably; but in reality, they are very different types of glass.  In this post we will explain how these two different glass types serve a similar purpose and also help you determine which might be best suited for your specific application.

I tried to be mostly quiet, but to inject a few different types of music transients to see if that mattered. Sometimes it seems like sound triggers clicks; I certainly don’t hear many during the quiet passages. But overall, I heard a few in there.

USB Camera

Let’s start with a detailed description of both anti-reflective glass and non-glare glass.  After defining both glass types we will list how each is used.

Offhand, I’d say check your grounding…except that the pops aren’t happening with the unpowered adapter. So my baseless speculation: don’t those charge-over-USB3 devices charge in pulses, rather than a continuous current? If so, wouldn’t it be interesting if the clicks corresponded to those pulses?

maybe, even though nothing is plugged into the power port of this adapter, the adapter is still polling the power port, and doing so in a way that interrupts the flow of audio

So it seems that somehow, the Zoom is not getting USB bus power through the adapter, or not ENOUGH power. Noting again that the Presonus interface powered up just fine in the identical setup when swapped in for the Zoom.

AR glass is optically coated on one or both sides. The anti-reflective coating is usually a di-electric coating and can be applied to the glass in a single layer or multiple layers.  When this invisible optical coating is applied to a glass substrate it accomplishes the following:

Sometimes I also record full-length (2 hour) live shows. In this application, the Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter is particularly important because it allows me to supply power to the device so that an entire concert can be recorded. But the captured audio has “click” sounds randomly throughout, ruining the recording.

Set the sample rate of your project, the I/O buffer size, and use Low Latency Mode to minimize the amount of latency (delay) you experience while recording audio or playing software instruments.

Non Glare Glass. There is an inverse relationship between the amount of diffusion of the non-glare glass and the resolution of the display. Now that we have explored how both Non-Glare and Ant-reflective glass are produced, let’s look at their typical applications.  The matrix below can help steer you in the right direction when deciding between Anti-Reflective and Non-Glare Glass.

Well, when the world decides it wants to use touch screens and touch screens don’t work for you…those devices aren’t options.

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Dave, just a thought - how about using a MagSafe charger and your”pure” camera adapter. That way you could get power and a “clickless” audio recording for an extended period of time.

Interesting! But literally, the entire setup is completely untouched for these tests. I set it up, and then I sit a foot or two away with an (unplugged) classical guitar playing into a microphone, and no one else is even in the room. Noting, too, that I keep that room around 45% relative humidity because it’s also where my piano is located.

USB3.0CameraModule

That white “power” line goes to a USB AC adapter and the black line goes to the USB input on the Zoom. I removed the batteries in the Zoom to ensure it wasn’t drawing on battery power. And as suggested by the blank screen, the Zoom will not power up. To control the experiment and prove the Zoom works as a USB-bus-powered device, I took that USB 3 adapter out of the setup and plugged that black USB line directly from Zoom to the AC adapter. Sure enough, it powered up.

So all this is to say that, while I love the MagSafe solution for keeping the iPhone charged, half the goal here was to keep the Zoom charged. And part of what I’m confessing here, partly to myself, is that – audio issues aside, which are a real issue – this USB 3 adapter may not be fully solving the power-delivery problem I’m using it to solve.

Zoom H6 Audio Interface w/ Microphone → Zoom Mini USB-USB-A cable → Lightning to USB Camera Adapter (NO power port) (Lightning to USB Camera Adapter - Apple) → iPhone → Camera App, Video Mode ->>> NO clicking sound (Dropbox - Lightning to USB Camera Adapter - NO CLICKS.m4a - Simplify your life)

Zoom H6 Audio Interface w/ Microphone → Zoom Mini USB-USB-A cable → Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter (has power port, but nothing is plugged into the power port) (Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter - Apple) → iPhone → Camera App, Video Mode ->>> CLICKING SOUND (Dropbox - Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter - CLICKS.m4a - Simplify your life)

From what I read online, these little clicks may be from audio buffer under runs, not from cellular or WiFi interference. And note that I didn’t change anything on the phone between the test with the adapter that worked and the one that didn’t.

I’m glad I at least have a cable that handles audio properly, even if it can’t power my devices. At least a short recording sessions can now resume.

After to speaking to Apple Support again today, I opened a Bug Report with Apple. Their responsiveness with other tickets for engineering has been fairly lame, so I’m not optimistic. But this is not okay. This is a $40 adapter, not some cheap Chinese knock-off, and the only solution to this particular problem. Apple continues to do media promos at Apple Events showing iPhones used in studio / pro applications. I’m not a media guru, but I’m getting more heavily into this space, and I’ve been buying more pro / semi-pro hardware and software to get the job done. I care about pristine audio quality. But the iPhone should suffice as the camera. If it’s not going to work, then I’m not gonna let Apple get away with those promos ;-)

I can confirm that the MagSafe charger fits in the video mount bracket, and so would be a great solution for keeping my phone alive during a long recording session!

Yea, so under running an audio buffer is what I read somewhere online as being a possible cause of these clicks. Actually, here’s the link:

Usb 3 cameranear me

I wish I could have known what it was running prior to updating. However, connecting the non-powered Camera Adapter, that one only says 1.0.0; and I’m not getting prompted to update its firmware. As a reminder, that’s the one I reported above as not having audio issues.

I can definitely hear the clicks, but I couldn’t tell if they were regular or random. If they are being introduced by the iPhone, I would expect them to be regularly spaced; if it’s a buffer underrun (or other issue that varies with the signal input), I would expect them randomly. If you record, say, 30 seconds with the same setup but don’t play the guitar, do you still get clicks?

So even though I was in a middle of testing, I proceeded with this, since I have no idea where it came from or how to make it come back if I say no. Here’s what it looked like during the update:

I tried using different mics, different video recording apps, etc. What made the difference was removing the Lightning-USB 3 Adapter and using the regular Lightning-USB (Camera) adapter. Thinking the Lightning-USB 3 Adapter item was defective, Apple replaced it. Today the new one arrived and has the same problem. This suggests to me that there is an engineering design flaw in the Lightning-USB 3 Adapter. I have tried multiple recordings, and the Lightning-USB 3 Adapter always has audio artifacts, but the other adapter never does.

And while the Zoom offers many options, I have had it set to 44.1 kHz as well. Likewise, my project in Logic Pro is set to 44.1 kHz, so I think we’re good. Thanks for forcing me to check that

I’m trying to do higher-end audio/video projects using Apple gear. The iPhone 13 Pro has a great camera for the video, but the built-in mic is, of course, lousy. I’ve been using various external mic solutions with A/D converters to alleviate this issue.

Anti-Reflective Coatings can be applied to just about any glass substrate including: Gorilla Glass, Borofloat, Ultra Clear Low Iron Float Glass, Ultra Thin Glass (Schott AS-87, Schott D263, AGC EN-A1)

Thanks for reminding me of that! I’m not exactly clear on how the power is wired, but the power port is supposed to also charge the USB audio interface. But I don’t think the Zoom is getting charged with this setup, and it’s mainly the iPhone that needs the power here, so that might work. The main problem will probably be fitting the MagSafe between the phone and the bracket holding the phone for video.

A differentiator of Anti-Reflective glass – when compared to Non-Glare glass – is the ability to customize the coating for specific wavelengths of light.  AR coatings can be customized for visible light, UV and or NIR spectral bands.

Good point. It didn’t work for me here, but it’s a perfectly good link when I paste it into a browser. But you can’t see the URL because this forum is rendering it as an (unplayable) audio file. I have gone back and put brackets around it which reveals the hyperlink, but maybe @ace can look into why it wouldn’t play as an embedded file?

USB Camerafor PC

Non-Glare is measured in gloss units and is available in numerous gloss (etching) levels.   The gloss levels range from 60 to 140.  Non-Glare Glass is available in both Low Iron a Soda Lime gloat glass. The challenge with finding the right gloss level is balancing the amount of glare reduction (diffusion) with the resolution of the display behind the glass.  The environment of the application, ambient light, thickness of the glass and brightness of the underlying display all play a part in the performance of the

Just to be clear, there is nothing A/C in this entire setup. The Zoom H6 is battery powered. The mic is phantom powered by the Zoom. The Zoom USB’s to the iPhone through the adapter that has nothing plugged into its power port.

IndustrialUSB Camera

The question is, what is that power source meant to power: the Lightning device or the device connected to the Camera/USB input, or BOTH?

Anyway, I had no idea there was firmware inside this device. But that makes some sense, since at least some type of buffering appears to be going on.

Of course in my case, it’s the adapter that appears to make the difference, so I don’t think that’s the problem I’m having. But perhaps there are 2 variables at play.

I think I went down this path early, just not as methodically, and so my conclusion that it doesn’t work is accurate, but my testing wasn’t as organized.

Here are the most relevant cases, including the control case, reproduced today in the studio with some deliberately soft playing:

Okay, QuickTime Player hooked me up with a metadata report, since Photos didn’t. Assuming Photos didn’t change the bitrate while Exporting, the iPhone recorded at 44.1 kHz:

I’m imagining two controllers talking to each other: “Hi, stop doing audio or whatever silly thing you’re doing, I need to use these wires for power.” “OK, I"ll buffer this audio.” “OK, I’m done with the power thing, resume, you know, whatever.” “OK.” Perhaps the clicks don’t happen every time, but it only takes one to ruin a recording, right?

Non-Glare Glass is produced by etching (via acid bath) one or both surfaces of the glass. The etching process is very precise and leaves the glass with an incredibly consistent etched finish across the entire surface.  This etched surface disperses light as it hits the surface of the glass, virtually eliminating glare.  This allows the end user to see transmitted images and videos very clearly – even in direct sunlight.  Non-Glare Glass works best with high resolution displays.

Recently, I started what I hope to be a high-quality “studio” recording project with video. Playing one of the tracks at home the next day after an evening recording session, I heard audio artifacts randomly “clicking” throughout this recording. These are quiet, acoustic instruments, and these clicks are very disturbing.

Yeah, that’s my unsubstantiated thought. But doing this sort of thing with iOS/mobile devices is well outside my wheelhouse.

When the iPad is turned on and the lightning connector is plugged in from the stand, the following message will come up: Select “Update” and allow the firmware for the Apple USB Camera Adapter to ...

Maybe the Zoom draws more power? I don’t know. But this $40 adapter is Apple’s only solution to this problem and it’s not working. So this is a second problem with this USB 3 adapter. If the issue is that it exceeds the draw limit, then it’s not a bug; just an annoying limitation. But the audio issue is definitely a bug.

The rest of my answer is because you’re forcing me to explain something that I have skirted up until this point. The “USB 3” adapter in question is hooked up like this:

Given how loud that recording is, I didn’t notice any little pops or clicks and still have no idea if such audio artifacts are buried in there.