Millimolar to micromolar

A refractor works differently from a reflector (newtonian telescope), in which the light is bounced off mirrors to get focused rather than passing through an optical element (lens).

They usually pair a negative and a positive lens that are made of different types of glass:  crown and flint glass.  These glasses have a different refractive index, and therefore, different light dispersion.

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This is because apochromatic refractors are principally built with the goal of delivering high-quality images in astrophotography.

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In a refractor telescope, light passes through one or more lenses in order to be focused and magnified. Photographic lenses are, in this sense, refractors.

When light passes through a glass, its different components, i.e., the different colors, are bent differently and you can see them individually.

But this type of telescope comes in two (three if you are picky with definitions) flavors, so which one to get for astrophotography? Better to go with an achromatic or with an apochromatic refractor?

The terminology used is pretty confusing, particularly when manufacturers tend to bend the definitions in favor of their products by labeling a semi-apochromatic refractor as apochromatic.

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Modern achromatic telescopes, also known as ACHRO, use two lenses to bring two colors to focus in the same plane, typically red and blue.

With LoCA, you will have fringing around highly contrasted edges that changes with focus: if your focus is too short, you’ll see fringings that are, say, blue. Overshoot the focus in the other direction and you’ll have fringing of a different color, say, red.

Then there is also the distinction between doublet and triplet, which relates to the number of lenses used: a true APO is a triplet.

In a nutshell, the low dispersion crown glass positive lens is used to compensate for the higher dispersion of the flint glass in the negative lens.

The Sky-Watcher Evoguide 50ED is a great example of such a semi-APO (often just called APO) refractor, using one FPL-53 element coupled to an ED lens.

Note that not all achromatic telescopes are born equally: the higher the f-ratio of the telescope, the better the reduction of false colors.

Now, do understand that there is not a single red, green and blue color; there are multiple wavelengths that can be considered red, green, and blue: these are the residual colors and depending on the quality of your telescope, they can creep into the image, although often they go unnoticed.

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One of the most highly regarded photographic lenses for wide-field astrophotography falls under this category: the Samyang 135 f/2 ED UMC.

This is not a big concern if you use your refractor for visual observations, but it can be annoying if you plan to do astrophotography with it.

We have discussed chromatic aberration in detail in this article, so let me just illustrate the two types of chromatic aberrations and consider what happens to the three fundamental colors (Red, Green, and Blue).

This is not different from making sunlight pass through a prism to observe colors of the rainbow and the phenomenon is called dispersion.

Having the different colors focusing on a different point or a different plane is what we commonly call chromatic aberration, or CA for short.

While not easy to correct in post, you can minimize it in-camera if you accurately focus on the stars and can step down your lens (or reduce your telescope aperture with a mask).

Because in newtonian telescopes and mirror lenses light does not pass through the lens, they are essentially CA free. But they have their own set of shortcomings, such as coma, collimation issues, big size, long cooling time, etc.

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In telescopes, you don’t have a diaphragm to control the aperture, but you can always create a mask to reduce the obstructed part of the telescope aperture (thus reducing it) for the times you use your telescope for astrophotography.

Fluorite glass is also another type of high-quality glass that gives an even better color correction. FPL-51 and FPL-53 are another type of fancy glasses used in APO telescopes.

ED glass is a better quality glass than that typically used in achromats: it has lower dispersion and provides better color correction.

As you may have guessed from the name, the difference between achromatic and apochromatic has something to do with the way the different colors are affected when sunlight (or starlight) passes through the lenses in the telescope.

If you are into photography, you may have noticed that high-end and pro photographic lenses often include the ED included in the name.

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Andrea Minoia works as a researcher in a Belgian university by day and is a keen amateur astrophotographer by night. He is most interested in deep sky photography with low budget equipment and in helping beginners along their journey under the stars.

In a telescope, when the light passes through the lens, it is bent to focus at a precise point on the instrument’s focal plane. But because of dispersion, we already saw that the different colors starlight is made of are also bent by a slightly different amount.

The result is that a single lens telescope would not be able to focus the three fundamental colors (Red, Green, and Blue) on the same point.

Here, the CA increases the more the subject is off-axis: if you photograph stars, those near the edges of the frame will show stronger CA.

While refractor lenses and telescopes are great in many ways, they have their Achilles heel in the form of chromatic aberration.

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Apochromatic refractors are designed to bring all three colors into focus in the same plane, effectively producing images that are CA-free.

The other type of chromatic aberration is Lateral (or Transversal) Chromatic Aberration (TCA). This occurs when the lens cannot focus all three colors on the same point of the focal plane.

Are you going for visual observations on the move? If the budget allows for it, I would still prefer semiAPO and APO telescopes, as you never know. But if you are on a budget, go for an achromatic one, trying to avoid those with low f-ratio, as they will suffer from stronger aberrations.

Consider the main use you will have for it: are you into astrophotography? Go with at least a semi-APO refractor. They offer the best color correction, minimal chromatic and spherical aberrations.

If you take the same two-lenses design of an achromatic telescope but use ED, Fluorite, or FPL-51/FPL-53 glass for at least one of them, you have built what is called a semi-APO refractor.

To correct for this, modern telescopes use more complicated optical schemes involving more lenses made of high-quality glass.

Still, they cannot fully correct dispersion and you will see some residual chromatic aberration, mostly in the form of violet and blue halos around the stars.