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Rodger has great knowledge of electronic devices as well as photographic gear. However, here the issue goes a bit farther beyond just the electronics. Your lens has lube inside. It gets thicker in very cold conditions and gets thinner in very hot conditions. In very hot conditions it can stray into places where it does not belong. Now if you have periodic C&C done this is never an issue but 90% of you will never have a C&C done on your gear.

I take good care of my cameras but I didn't buy them to sit on a shelf. The 1 series are Canon's best in terms of environmental resistance and I have shot with them in the cold, heat, rain, and snow. The rest of their line will handle temperature well with the caveat that many don't manage internal heat buildup as well as the 1 series bodies.

Wide-angle camera lenses are a fan-favorite among most lifestyle bloggers and everyday shooters; they’re perfect for capturing an entire scene and confined spaces if you want to show how the entire bedroom looks or the whole restaurant with the crowds of customers — the shorter focal length lens will be your best bet.

Electronic components have a wide temperature tolerance range but what you have to avoid is creating excessive operating heat in an already hot device. Shooting long high bandwidth video clips is going to generate a lot of heat and that is worse in more compact bodies. Battery long term life is reduced by excessive heat and activity level is reduced by extreme cold so you will have shorter usage between recharge cycles in the cold.

Lastly, fisheye lens are a super fun addition to the camera bag if you’re into the widest view possible. Their angle of view is usually 180°, allowing you to see half of a full rotation and offering a distinctive, hemispherical lens distortion. They cram in as much information as possible; thus, they don’t produce straight lines. These are awesome for creative, experimental photography projects, especially within fashion portraits or skateboarding content.

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Remember that all focal lengths depend entirely on the photographer’s vision or personal preference. Like all art forms, there are no steadfast rules to abide by. This article is merely a guideline for the purpose of each focal length, including some technical differences between the various offerings you see today.

Prime lenses are the unsung heroes of the photography world. Fixed in focal length, they don't have the zoom capabilities of their counterparts, but what they lack in flexibility, they make up for in quality. Because they contain fewer glass elements, prime lenses can capture images that are not only sharper but also more vibrant.

Long-focal length lenses range in the 100-600+ range and appear to bring far away objects close to the camera. Made swimmingly for the landscape photographers in mind, long lengths are perfect for wildlife, the bird on the backyard feeder, the child at the top of a water slide, or athletes on the other side of the football field. Lenses longer than 70mm focus on infinity after 100 feet. This infinity-focusing distance means a couple of different things.

Additionally, the larger size of full-frame sensors allows for better low-light performance and less noise at high ISO settings, enhancing image quality in challenging lighting conditions.

I'm just grabbing at straws here, but I wonder if an insulated, soft sided, lunch bag might help keep things at least a bit cooler. No ice or freeze-packs inside with your gear, of course. Though I think I've seen some of them that had an external pouch or pocket to hold one of those flexible gel freezer packs away from the contents. Might help keep things cooler on at least a day-at-a-time basis.

On the other hand, the smaller APS-C sensors come with a "crop factor" of about 1.5x to 1.6x, effectively increasing the focal length of lenses and providing extra "reach," which can be beneficial for telephoto photography such as sports or wildlife. Despite potentially higher noise levels in low light, APS-C cameras offer a more compact and affordable option for those seeking a balance between performance and portability. This makes them attractive to amateurs, enthusiasts, and even professionals who value a lighter system.

Focal length camera

My rule of thumb was and is if it is too cold to hot for me it is too cold or hot for my gear. That said I have done work in conditions that are far and away rom what the Canon manual says is normal operating conditions. I have been in a hurricane, a blizzard and I did several shoots in the US southwest desserts. However, camera/lens and photographer were all well and ready to shoot again. I don't recommend the first two and I did not repeat them ever again.

110 degrees shouldn't hurt the camera or lens, just keep them and their camera bag out of direct sun. I would keep the windows/sunroof cracked because depending upon where you are the temperature can go a lot higher inside a car. Even if it got a little hotter in the car, it isn't going to damage the camera being stored BUT if you start at a high ambient temperature and then generate a lot of heat then the internal temperature is going to soar.

I have been shooting for years with my 1 series Canon DSLR gear and that includes shooting sports when it is hot and the gear is being directly hit by sun. I have shot playoff games where the temperature is in the low 20s meaning the camera is in that for several hours.

Let’s break it down: Wide-angle lenses (under 35mm) are your go-to for capturing vast landscapes and bustling street scenes. They fit more into the frame, which is great for sweeping views and architectural photography. Meanwhile, telephoto lenses (over 70mm) excel in bringing distant subjects into sharp relief. They're ideal for zeroing in on distant details, perfect for sports or wildlife photography, and they add a dramatic flair by compressing space, making elements in the photo appear closer together.

Then there's the standard lens, around 50mm, often hailed as the "nifty fifty." It’s akin to the human eye in how it captures the world, making it incredibly versatile. It’s perfect for everyday shooting and portraits, blending background and foreground elements naturally. As a beginner, using a 50mm lens encourages you to physically move around, engaging more with your environment, which can lead to more thoughtful compositions.

Good idea . . . Better safe than sorry. But I'm looking at this more as a way to insulate the contents from excess heat. Even with an external, isolated cool-pack I don't think you'll drop the temperature of the gear inside by any great amount.

The magic of a prime lens lies in its simplicity. The straightforward optical design enhances light transmission, allowing for incredibly clear and precise images. This can make a noticeable difference in your photography, especially when shooting in low light conditions. Moreover, with minimal distortion and chromatic aberration, your photos will have a professional sleekness that’s hard to achieve with a standard zoom lens.

Prime lenses are usually more compact and lighter than zoom lenses, making them convenient for travel and long shooting sessions. Their smaller size and weight are due to the absence of the extra glass and mechanics needed for zooming.

While there is a broad range of pricing for prime lenses, they can be less expensive than zoom lenses of comparable quality, especially at wider apertures. This cost-effectiveness stems from the more straightforward construction and fewer materials required.

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Chilling the camera, then exposing it to the heat immediately will cause condensation on/inside the camera......unless the camera is in an airtight bag in the lunch bag and you let it acclimate to the outside temperature before opening the bag.

The most popular wide-angle zoom range is 16-35mm. Most kit or standard zoom lenses go down to 24mm or28mm. The widest lenses on the market are 10mm (rectilinear) and 8mm (fisheye).

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focallength中文

Its up to you. I personally would not leave my camera gear in a hot or cold trunk. I'm not the right person to ask though. Even my bikes live inside the house. I avoid the extremes where possible. The gear can handle the hot or cold, but I would not operate the camera outside of either extreme. Batteries don't like extreme temp fluctuations either.

Focal length might sound technical, but it's really your secret weapon in framing the perfect shot. It's measured in millimeters and determines not just the angle of view—how much of your scene is captured—but also how your images are magnified. As a beginner, understanding this can transform the way you approach photography.

A wide-angle lens is often characterized by a focal length of 35mm or shorter, giving the photographer a wide field of view. The wider your field of view, the more of the scene you'll effortlessly capture in the frame. These lenses are ideal for many scenarios, and most photographers have at least one trusty wide-angle lens in their kit. If you’re a beginner photographer or want the first lens for a camera camera, it’s wise to go with a nifty 35mm lens focal length.

Getting into the art of photography? Just upgraded to a new camera body and need to decide which lens to purchase? Finding the right lens for your needs depends entirely on the focal length. Are you shooting portraits, weddings, sports, or wildlife? Street? Food?

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I'm wondering what range of temperature fluctuation a camera and lens can tolerate. I carry an R6 and the RF 24-105 lens in the back of my car, and I've measured temperatures as high as 110 degrees inside the camera bag at the end of a summer day. Can the camera/lens combo tolerate that on a regular (i.e., daily) basis? What about winter - the other end of its tolerance range? Is there a camera bag specifically designed for this purpose (insulation)? Any advice would be appreciated.

Camera focal lengthchart

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Thanks, Rodger, that is very helpful. I think I'm going to follow your lead - leave the camera in the car, but not on the very hottest days. I started carrying it because I just missed too many shots while out & about, and I've been glad on several occasions that I had it with me, but I was worried about the temperature effects on the structural parts of it - maybe the sensor could warp, stuff like that. I'll just be more careful about the most extreme days. Thanks for your help.

Lens compatibility is another consideration; full-frame lenses can be used on both sensor types, but APS-C lenses on full-frame bodies may result in vignetting. Finally, while full-frame cameras are more expensive, they are preferred for their superior image quality and flexibility in various shooting conditions. Conversely, due to the crop factor, APS-C cameras are favored for their affordability, compactness, and built-in telephoto advantage, making them a versatile choice for many photographers.

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What isfocal lengthoflens

With ten years under my belt as a professional photographer, I've found that telephotos are better than wide for my work — here's why.

focallength是什么

If the lens marking is unclear or you want more details, the lens manual or the manufacturer's website will provide specifications, including the focal length.

A lens focal length combines various elements that help to focus the light and minimize distortions. The location where all the light rays converge to form a sharp image is known as the optical center of the lens.

Focal lengthoflensformula

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Beyond the technical benefits, using a prime lens influences your creative process. Without the ability to zoom, you’re encouraged to physically move around your subject to compose the perfect shot. This often results in more thoughtful framing and a better connection with your subject. Whether you’re shooting portraits, street scenes, or landscapes, a prime lens can push you to explore new perspectives and enhance your compositional skills.

In short, they help photographic subjects appear closer than they are, achieving a beautiful compression for that desirable blurred background. There is a wide range of telephoto lenses on the market, including:

The simplest way to find the focal length of a lens is to look at its specifications. Most lenses have the focal length marked directly on them. For prime lenses, it will be a single number (e.g., 50mm), while zoom lenses will show a range (e.g., 24-70mm).

Generally, choosing a long focal length lens, like 70mm, 135mm, or 200mm, is wise to isolate textures and distant features to create dramatic backgrounds. Wide focal length lenses, like 16mm, 24mm, or 35mm, thrive when you want the entire scene in focus, like when shooting simple landscapes with long leading lines.

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They typically have larger maximum apertures (e.g., f/1.4, f/1.8, f/2.8), allowing more light to reach the sensor. This makes them excellent for low-light situations and for achieving shallow depth-of-field effects where the subject is in sharp focus against a smoothly blurred background.

Focal length in photography refers to the distance between the lens and the image sensor when the lens is focused on infinity. It's typically measured in millimeters (mm) and is a key determinant of a lens's angle of view — the extent of the scene captured by the lens — and its magnification.

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Any 24mm and 16mm lens is an excellent option if you want something extra wide. Focal lengths below 16mm are considered ultra-wide angles.

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2023317 — The FoV is related to the CMOS size and the actual focal length of camera lens. ... horizontal FoV = 2 × arctan35 .9/ 70= 54.3°.

The differences between cropped (APS-C) and full-frame sensors are significant in digital photography, influencing various aspects of image quality, field of view, depth of field, and camera system size and cost.

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