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Is the price difference worth it for these 3 lenses? I think the 1.4 really is a great bang for its buck which I used for many years before upgrading. It also has a stronger body compared to the 1.8, and just for that, I think either one is a worthy purchase.

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As a Canon user, Canon has 3 versions for this focal length, ranging from $100-$1500. I was very confused on which one to get. I really wanted to know the difference on how it looked like on a full-frame camera and on a crop censor camera.

Horizontal field of viewcalculator

When I got my very first DSLR, like many beginners, I was advised by a few friends to purchase a 50mm f/1.8 for my camera.

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How much is cropped will look the same with any of the 50mm lenses I had on hand, so my focus here was to see really how much is taken off with a crop censor camera. It really was quite a bit!

What great information for a newbie like myself. I have a crop sensor camera and never realized the difference from a full frame.

All that being said I have never really compared the bokeh on each and I am so glad that you did! I love love love the 1.2 for those times I’ve had a chance to use it and it does have that buttery feel that you show. Thank you! Great article!

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I love my 50mm 1.4 and use it A LOT! I really don’t see why I would spend 3x the amount on the 1.2. Especially after seeing your results. Thank you for doing this.

At the end of the day, I recommend any of these lenses! I learned a lot of the things I know now thanks to the nifty fifty! It’s a great focal length and very friendly for either a full-frame or crop censor.

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I knew I wanted to do food photography and take a few photos of my son, and I was told it was the best lens for the price. To this day, it is one of my favorite focal lengths.

Although the crop seems very tight, when it comes to portrait lenses, the 50mm is amazing for its quality of not distorting edges.

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Helpful article. On the Rebel the 50mm is basically equivalent to an 80mm. I really loved my 50mm 1.4 on my old Rebel XTi. Haven’t used it since upgrading to the 5D Mark III, but now I will. of course , now I am thinking an 85mm would be nice too!!

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Winnie is a portrait photographer specializing on families, children, and newborns in the Baltimore / DC area. Being a photographer is her full-time job, but she is also a mommy to Elliott and Finnegan, and an Air Force wife. Winnie shoots both Canon and Nikon cameras, and enjoys them both thoroughly. When she first started with photography, she intended to be a food photographer, and was an aspiring chef. Portraiture though has definitely found a special place in her heart. Winnie enjoys shopping, specially at stores like Anthropologie, functions on copious amounts of coffee, and loves listening to sports talk radio.

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I had to try also at shooting at the same spot, and using the same settings with all three lenses. I picked 2.0 since it’s an aperture I commonly shoot kids with.

A 100% zoom of the face from the above three photos. Sharpness wise, I think that the 1.4 and 1.8 could be sharper, but I barely see a difference.  With the 1.2, there is a jump on sharpness.

Field of viewcalculator

Sharpness wise, I think the body itself helps, but I notice better sharpness with the 1.4 and the 1.2 for sure. What was the most noticeable for me was how the bokeh looked.

I did a little experiment to see first hand how it looks. My son was gifted a Canon Rebel XT with a 50mm f/1.8 so I borrowed it to conduct a little bit of experiment. I mainly shoot with a Canon 5D Mark III and I used it also to do the rest of the comparisons.

These are the close-ups of the same image above, to the top right corner of the photos, to show a detailed look of the bokeh.

I thought about getting the 1.2L but I hear so many bad reviews about that lens. Seems you either get a good copy or a bad copy. The bokeh sure is dreamy though!

This equation can be re-arranged to solve for FOVhoriz, given FOVdiag and the aspect ratio information as shown in the figure to the right.

Even though the 1.8 would do really well for the most part, just the difference from jagged bokeh to creamy bokeh was noticeable. The 50mm 1.4, true to its price range and quality, is a great lens in the middle. The 50mm 1.2 continues to boast that creamy depth of field.

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I do love how sturdy the 1.2 is and I have definitely purchased it for the quality of depth of field alone as I prefer buttery depth of field.  It was a splurge, but I am in love! I shoot in high grass a lot, and the 1.4 tends to make the edges of the grass a bit too jagged for my taste.

I really loved my 1.4 until I got my 135mm and then I wanted that creamy Bokeh throughout all my work. I couldn’t use my 135mm for toddlers since I’m so far. I have heard about the bad copies here and there, so I may have gotten a good copy, but also, I feel this lens should really be used at its sweet spot of 2.0 to get the best results =]. I haven’t gotten rid of the 1.4 because as a walk around lens, I do still like it a lot. It’s a lot lighter. I prefer the L for my clients.

Both were shot on similar settings, at f/2.8, and I stood at the same spot. Ainsley tilted a bit for me, but she stayed in the same spot also.

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The depth of field on the 1.2 is buttery and smooth. Even with the same branches on the top right, I had to look in closer to try to detect it, and it just blurred into the background smoother. That’s definitely a plus to me because I personally like the smooth buttery depth of field.

So glad I stumbled upon this article! I’m about to purchase my first DSLR and feel so lost as far as choosing the right standard lens. You’ve helped me quite a bit. I have a few more questions though and feel you would be very helpful. E-mail me if you get a chance, please!

Referring to the figure to the right, one can see that the tangent of the half-FOV angle would be equal to half the aspect over the adjacent side. Applying this rule to both the diagonal and the horizontal yields two equations that can be combined to form one equation relating the FOV angles to the aspect ratios.

Using my Mark III, I also wanted to see the difference on how the lenses look at their widest aperture. I didn’t edit any of these pictures, they’re all straight out of camera.

@Krystal, I think you can use the automatic Lens Correction Profiles in Lightroom to fix the known problems with lens aberration and fringing, but you’ve got to shoot in RAW or the option isn’t selectable in the develop module.

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Great comparison! I have a 1.8…it’s a love/hate relationship! I want to upgrade to the 1.4 hoping the focus is better! My 1.8 is very hit and miss.

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A similar method can be used to convert between the diagonal FOV of a 4x3 (or 3x2) aspect ratio typically used to capture photos to the equivalent diagonal FOV of a 16x9 aspect ratio typically used in video capture. In this conversion, the horizontal FOV would be the same for both a 4x3 (or 3x2) photo and 16x9 video.

This is some great information! This is exactly what I was looking for when I purchased the 1.4 last year! Super review! Thanks, I’ll be checking out all your other tutorials now!

I do find that comparing the lenses for sharpness at the same f-stop is a bit unfair to each lens. If rule of thumb being that a lens’ sharpest f-stop is two down from wide open, the 50 1.2 would be sharpest at f1.8, the 50 1.4 would be at f2 and the 50 1.8 would be f2.8 (if I am doing my ‘math’ correctly). Comparing three different lenses at the same f-stop just doesn’t seem fair to each lens, but maybe I am getting nitpicky. :0 But all that aside, you’d hope that for the price of the 1.2 it had better be the sharpest! (wish I could afford it!) 😉

With the 1.8, the bokeh looked sharp, jagged on the edges even. With the 1.4, not as jagged, but I noticed it more on some of the branches around Ainsley to the top right, more fluttery, but it doesn’t compare at all to how the 50mm f/1.2 shoots at its widest.

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As is commonly done with cameras, DJI advertises the Field of View (FOV) of their lenses using the diagonal angle. This FOV value corresponds to an aspect ratio of 4x3 (or sometimes 3x2) which is typically used for photos.

The chirp pulse compression process transforms a long duration frequency-coded pulse into a narrow pulse of greatly increased amplitude. It is a technique ...

I love the 50mm f1.2 lens as well. I’ve been shooting with it for almost a year now and the biggest bonus it gave me was indoor photos. (No flash required because it lets in soooo much light) I love this lens so much, however I have issues with chromatic aberration with outdoor photos. Any advice on how to avoid this problem using this awesome lens?

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The reason the above method would be incorrect is because the FOV angle, when projected onto a flat plane has a non-linear relationship with distances along that plane. For example, a one-degree change of FOV when the FOV is small results in a relatively small linear change on that flat plane. However, a one-degree change of FOV when the FOV is large (closer to 180) yields a massive change on that same flat plane.

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Thanks, everyone! CA is just an issue with most prime lenses, I see it most on my 35mm and 50mm. You can easily fix it in LR or ACR— the button looks like this (( )). You can then click on “remove chromatic aberration” and it should ease it =)

It is sometimes desired to know either the horizontal FOV or vertical FOV or both. To compute either the horizontal or vertical FOV, it is tempting to use the Pythagorean Theorem to compute the ratio of aspect-horizontal to aspect-diagonal and then multiply the diagonal FOV by that ratio to obtain the horizontal FOV but that would be incorrect. This method is summarized in the figure to the right.

[fusion_builder_container hundred_percent=”yes” overflow=”visible”][fusion_builder_row][fusion_builder_column type=”1_1″ background_position=”left top” background_color=”” border_size=”” border_color=”” border_style=”solid” spacing=”yes” background_image=”” background_repeat=”no-repeat” padding=”” margin_top=”0px” margin_bottom=”0px” class=”” id=”” animation_type=”” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_direction=”left” hide_on_mobile=”no” center_content=”no” min_height=”none”]Save Save Save[/fusion_builder_column][/fusion_builder_row][/fusion_builder_container] About the AuthorLatest Posts Winnie Bruce Winnie is a portrait photographer specializing on families, children, and newborns in the Baltimore / DC area. Being a photographer is her full-time job, but she is also a mommy to Elliott and Finnegan, and an Air Force wife. Winnie shoots both Canon and Nikon cameras, and enjoys them both thoroughly. When she first started with photography, she intended to be a food photographer, and was an aspiring chef. Portraiture though has definitely found a special place in her heart. Winnie enjoys shopping, specially at stores like Anthropologie, functions on copious amounts of coffee, and loves listening to sports talk radio. See more from Winnie at www.winniebrucephotography.com. Recent Posts by Winnie Bruce The unlikely place I found my inspiration in photography How I edit to get the glow of a reflector in Photoshop The favorite things of photographer Winnie Bruce a day in the life | winnie bruce my photography journey | winnie bruce

At f/2, I noticed the same thing I did as to how the lenses look like at their widest. The depth of field just looks so different.

Thank you for the article. My EF 50mm f/1.4 is by far my favourite lens. Before it, my favourite was my EF 50mm f/1.8 II. In the future, if I have the funds, I’d definitely consider the f/1.2L.

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