The main face of the focus target is attached to the larger cardboard end piece. The video shows a 3M adhesive spray, which I’ve used myself and works wonderfully. The measure is then attached to a strip of cardboard. These two pieces then come together using a nail as a sort of hinge. To find the right spot for the hinge, you’ll want to look where the centre line of the focus target sits. Then just epoxy the nail to the back of the cardboard.

Whenever I buy a new lens, I have to calibrate it and AF fine tune five different DSLRs. Two are my primary stills shooters, and three are for video. But if I only have the video DSLRs out with me, and want to grab a few quick behind the scenes shots, I need to know their AF is spot on. So, I use the SpyderLENSCAL to calibrate every lens with every body. For me, it’s worth the cost.

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The principal focal length of a lens is determined by the index of refraction of the glass, the radii of curvature of the surfaces, and the medium in which the lens resides. It can be calculated from the lens-maker's formula for thin lenses.

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And once you’ve got it built, here’s how to use it. This method also works for the SpyderLENSCAL or any other focus targets you wish to use.

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With the PDF file cut out into the main target area & measurement scale, the next step is to cut out the cardboard (or foamcore). This helps to ensure that all the surfaces are flat and smooth. The video shows the end of the box being cut at an angle. This provides a “foot” that can be weighed down to hold the end perfectly vertical.

Established in 2006, DIYP has been at the forefront of the industry for over 15 years, providing our readers with the latest news, insights, and inspiration.

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For a thin double convex lens, refraction acts to focus all parallel rays to a point referred to as the principal focal point. The distance from the lens to that point is the principal focal length f of the lens. For a double concave lens where the rays are diverged, the principal focal length is the distance at which the back-projected rays would come together and it is given a negative sign. The lens strength in diopters is defined as the inverse of the focal length in meters. For a thick lens made from spherical surfaces, the focal distance will differ for different rays, and this change is called spherical aberration. The focal length for different wavelengths will also differ slightly, and this is called chromatic aberration.

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The intensity of a light source is described in candelas and is defined as the total luminous flux (total lumens) within a given solid angle. To better ...

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A few weeks back I had to calibrate my newly bought 30mm 1.4, the guy I bought it from said it was defect and the AF didn’t work and it always misfocuses, so I got it really cheap. I opened it to clean and then calibrated it. AF works perfect and it’s as sharp as it could possibly be. Got an awesome lens for almost no money (y)

John Aldred is a photographer with over 25 years of experience in the portrait and commercial worlds. He is based in Scotland and has been an early adopter – and occasional beta tester – of almost every digital imaging technology in that time. As well as his creative visual work, John uses 3D printing, electronics and programming to create his own photography and filmmaking tools and consults for a number of brands across the industry.

This shows parallel beams from two helium-neon lasers converging to the principal focal point of a 30 cm double convex lens. The rays then enter a diverging lens of focal length -10cm on the right. The laser beams were made visible with a spray can of artificial smoke.

The most important characteristic of a lens is its principal focal length, or its inverse which is called the lens strength or lens "power". Optometrists usually prescribe corrective lenses in terms of the lens power in diopters. The lens power is the inverse of the focal length in meters: the physical unit for lens power is 1/meter which is called diopter.

A cylindrical lens is a lens that focuses light into a line, as a spherical lens would. The curved face or faces of a cylindrical lens are sections of a ...

Whether you buy or make your own focus target, the trick is to have the front of it parallel to your camera’s sensor. This ensures that when you focus on the centre of the target, the scale off to the side is oriented perfectly. If they’re not perfectly parallel, then you could accidentally add back or front focus where it didn’t previously exist.

The basic process of building your own is quite simple. You just need a cardboard box you can cut up. Although you could use sheets of Foamcore for a more finished look. Then you print out a PDF file which contains the targeting images that you’ll use to focus your camera. These lets you quickly and easily see if your camera is front or back focusing, and by how much.

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If you’ve only got one camera and one or two lenses that you’ll only need to calibrate once, though, it might seem like a bit of a high expense. You buy it, use it once or twice, and then it just sits in a box. Well, there are other options. You can make your own. This video from Crafty Cams has been out for a while, but it’s recently become popular again and it’s well worth a watch.

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Lens Calculator ; Clear Aperture (CA). i. mm ; Wavelength (λ) *, nm ; Conic Constant (k). i ; Centre Thickness (CT), mm ...

John Aldred is a photographer with over 25 years of experience in the portrait and commercial worlds. He is based in Scotland and has been an early adopter – and occasional beta tester – of almost every digital imaging technology in that time. As well as his creative visual work, John uses 3D printing, electronics and programming to create his own photography and filmmaking tools and consults for a number of brands across the industry.

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