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The short answer is “No”. For studio work, I stand fast on the idea that a handheld incident meter is best, and that applies to both flash and constant lights. I feel the same way about situations where I can get into position where the subject will be and measure the light at the point. Shooting available light portraits indoors on location, film production stills, and other indoor events where the lighting should be consistent are times when getting a reading from the subject location might be possible.

I’m not going to go into all the available options as that could be an entire article itself, but I do want to point out one option I feel is very useful. Available for many meters is a “lumidisc” that replaces the domed diffuser. These are used to measure light on a flat plane and are often included with many, but not all, handheld meters.

Most modern cameras can divide a scene up into multiple zones and can compare the results to a list of programmed scenes in the camera processor. As far back as the 1980s, cameras started employing multi-zone meters, using up to sometimes five zones. Current digital cameras can evaluate a scene using dozens of (or more) points to provide what it determines to be the “correct” exposure for the scene. I put quotes around correct in the previous language because that can be subjective, and there are two factors that affect the reading one gets with reflective metering.

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One of the best cases for having a handheld meter is for using studio flash. When using manual studio flash, your in-camera meter is not only useless, it can actually be misleading. Since the camera meter has no idea how much light will be present when the flash fires, using settings based on only the ambient light will undoubtedly result in very overexposed images (Figure 6). While many readers might know this is a given, I’ve seen other photographers struggle with this issue a lot over the years.

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How consistent your needs are will depend on the shoot. For some work, the variances in exposure are perfectly acceptable. For things like fashion or product photography, the results need a high level of consistency, and that’s where incident-type metering shines. Many handheld meters have a reflective reading option. In the case of spot meters, they have to read reflective by the nature of their design.

No matter how the information is displayed, most photographic light meters will provide you with the same basic information. By measuring the available light, the meter will provide the correct aperture/f-stop combination for a given scene.

There are also industrial light meters used for environmental services that can measure light in multiple ways for checking on work environment settings, signage, and a wide range of other uses. Gossen in particular offers a wide variety of light measuring devices for photography and industrial use.

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While I find using my handheld incident meter to be the best option for a lot of the types of photography I shoot, there are plenty of situations where one isn’t necessary or even feasible to use. Landscape photography is a perfect example of where it isn’t practical. In most cases, the subject (scene) is very far away. In cases like this, a spot meter or in-camera meter makes sense and are really the only options.

By using an incident reading, you will know exactly how much light is coming from your light source. By using this exposure value for all the headshots, everyone will be properly exposed even if the subjects have wide differences in skin tones from each other (Figure 5). The same applies to any situation where you are using lights that are set to a fixed output and the subject is placed the same distance from the light source from shot to shot. This will make your life much easier and can save a lot of time in post.

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There are several manufacturers making handheld incident/reflected meters, with pricing starting around the $130 mark for a basic one. If budget is a concern there is a wide selection of used meters out there and typically if they are in good shape, they should still be accurate and reliable. Just test them when you get them and then get out and shoot!

A patient with astigmatism experiences a refractive error, caused by the shape of the cornea or the lens. Typically, their eyes will be shaped more like an oval than a perfect sphere. This means that their vision will be blurred or distorted because the light rays are not coming together and focusing in the right place as two points of focus exist.

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Now at this point you might think “My camera’s built-in meter can tell me that”, and that’s true, but is it going to be the most accurate and consistent? And what about studio flash?

The above describes the basics of using a handheld meter for still photography. There are also meters designed for reading color temperature (Color Meters) and there are also meters designed specifically for video and cinema use. Many photographic meters offer some degree of metering settings for video/film use. However, dedicated ones will offer a wider range of settings and reading types needed for motion image capture.

If you are wondering how to correct an astigmatism, the treatment options are outlined below. To restore a patient’s vision, a change needs to be made so that the light can be focused properly once more. This can be done either by using external corrective lenses (glasses or contact lenses) or through surgery (laser eye surgery or lens implants with toric – astigmatism correcting intraocular lenses).

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Some flash meters can also display the difference between flash exposure and ambient light. The Sekonic L-478D-U for instance will display a percentage of flash to ambient light (Figure 8) which can be very useful for daylight fill situations. It can also be useful for determining how long to drag the shutter in order to balance low-intensity indoor lighting with flash exposure.

This is a surgical procedure to insert a lens into the eye – known as an intraocular lens (IOL). The IOL will correct the astigmatism and help the patient regain superior vision.

A handheld light meter is a device that measures light in order to determine the correct exposure for photographing an object or scene. Light meters are available in a variety of shapes and sizes (Figure 1) and also have different capabilities. By definition, handheld meters will fit in the hand much like a smartphone, but some of them, like spot meters, may have a more pistol-like grip to them.

Incident metering works by measuring the light that is falling on the subject or scene. Instead of relying on the reflectance of objects, the measurement is based on how much light is falling on the subject or scene, coming from the light source (or sources). By measuring the amount of light coming from the source, the correct exposure is now objective instead of subjective like reflective readings.

Most early light meters required no batteries — instead, they used cells that were light-sensitive to drive a needle to display the readings. You can still find this type of meter today, like the L-398 from Sekonic for example. Most modern light meters do require batteries and display information via electronic displays.

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For portrait photography, the flat diffuser is useful for checking the light on each side of the face individually. While you can take these measurements with a dome diffuser, the flat diffuser disc is more directional and better suited for this type of measurement (Figure 9a). Some meters have a retractable dome that can recess into the metering head. This produces similar results to the flat diffuser without having to remove anything.

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It’s not just the subject that benefits from using a meter. If you are needing to have your background lit evenly, you can use a meter to take readings from various spots on the background. This will show you areas that may be lighter or darker than others, and then you can adjust your lighting accordingly.

Often astigmatism is hereditary. However, it also occurs when eye surgery has left scars on the cornea or if you have sustained an injury to your eye. Conditions such as keratoconus that affect the shape of the cornea will also result in astigmatism

Patients undergoing laser eye surgery report better vision as early as 24 hours following the procedure, which takes around 15 minutes total for both eyes. One eye can be corrected immediately after the other.

It occurs when a shaped cornea or lens stops the eye from focusing light properly. In this article we will explain how to correct astigmatism by ensuring that light entering the eye is properly focused.

For decades, there’s a piece of gear that I’ve always had in my camera bag. This would be a handheld light meter. I feel I’m in the minority these days by still using a handheld light meter and that’s too bad this is so. While one can certainly shoot using their in-camera meter, there are cases where it’s not the best choice or even feasible to do so. In this guide, we will cover everything from what a light meter is to how to properly use one in your photography.

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One is that reflected light will vary in intensity based on the subject (Figure 2). For instance, someone with dark skin is going to reflect less light than a person that is fair-skinned. The result can be that the camera meter (or a handheld reflective meter) will over-expose the dark skin and will underexpose for the light skin.

To take an incident reading, you place the white meter diffuser right at the subject (Figure 3) and have it pointing towards the camera position. In the case of metering for flash, it helps to have a remote trigger you can have with you so you can fire the flash while at the subject position with the meter. Assistants are also very handy for this.

Note: These factors are relevant whether you’re shooting in full manual or automatic modes because even in manual mode, you are still making setting changes based on information provided by the in-camera meter.

If you have astigmatism you may have trouble reading, particularly if the print is small. You may also squint and suffer from headaches and fatigue. While some cases of astigmatism are very mild and need no treatment, others are more severe and will require treatment to correct the patient’s vision.

While one can certainly be successful in their photography work without ever using a handheld meter, they are very useful tools. They can save you time in getting your lighting set correctly, which leaves you more time to concentrate on the subject and composition.

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While most handheld incident meters come standard with a hemispherical diffuser over the light sensor, in some cases the manufacturer provides other options depending on the model of meter. Some meters have interchangeable diffusers while others allow for the entire upper section (sometimes referred to as the head) to be removed and replaced or even put on an extension cable.

Keep in mind there are some ways to measure reflected flash with some meters. This includes certain spot meters as well as other flash meters that can use reflective attachments. While I don’t see many situations where this would offer an advantage, I’d be remiss if I didn’t point out these options exist.

Many cameras can be used with flashes that measure via TTL that will allow you to adjust this balance as well, but the nature of TTL means that any changes to the scene or subject placement could change the final exposure. Using a meter can provide a “source of truth” that can be used to get the correct exposure.

Using a reflective light meter is more familiar to photographers as this is the principle used by the light meters built into cameras.

Astigmatic corneas can be rugby-ball shaped – this is called regular astigmatism and is the most common kind. Alternatively you may have a cornea which curves in different directions and has some areas thicker than others – this is called irregular astigmatism and is much rarer. Usually, astigmatism is present from birth, and is identified during routine eye tests.

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Contrary to what you may have heard, astigmatism can be treated with laser eye surgery. This is a quick and non-invasive procedure that uses a laser to change the shape of the cornea, thereby altering the path of the light that enters the eye. The laser procedure will also correct your long- or short-sightedness if this is present.

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Handheld meters can also help identify problematic gear. I discovered one of my studio strobes was putting out inconsistent amounts of light at lower settings by testing it with my meter. This helped me sort out why my headshot sessions were giving me slightly brighter and darker images even though the light was set manually.

Let’s say, for example, you have to shoot headshots for twenty people and there’s a variety of light and dark skin tones within this group of people. Metering based on reflective measurements will result in varied “correct” exposure values (Figure 4). Then you’ll either need to adjust as you shoot or fix them in post after the fact to get all the images consistently exposed.

While you can experiment and find the correct exposure on a digital camera today by reviewing your test shots, that was not an option using film. Even with cameras that could use Polaroids for testing, it often cost about $1.00 per shot for the film, so not a very cheap or effective way of determining exposure.

In cameras, this can be based on judging primarily the center area of the scene (center-weighted), a small spot in the image (spot metering), or by evaluating the entire scene and coming up with an exposure value. The first two are pretty self-explanatory, but evaluative metering is more complex.

The second factor is that evaluative, in-camera processing of the light readings is making the best guess based on the scene or subject. Together this introduces inconsistency, and you can see this when the objects in a scene change position or the light source (or photographer) moves and the exposure is affected.

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Even today, with the ability to instantly review your test shots, it makes sense to have an accurate starting point. Most of the time, your meter’s reading will be all you need, but of course, you might still want to make exposure adjustments to fit your vision. Having a good starting point still saves time and when on a working set, time is money.

In normal vision, the cornea and the lens work together to refract the light that enters the eye through the pupil. The eye is shaped so that the refraction, or bending of the light, happens in exactly the right way to focus the light perfectly and produce an accurate image on the retina.

Reflective metering is the type employed by a camera as well as many handheld meters. Light entering the lens or meter objective has reflected off of the subject. Depending on your meter or camera’s metering settings, this light is evaluated and a “correct” exposure is determined.

This situation is the reason I first decided I needed a handheld meter back in the late 1980s. In particular, I needed one that could read flash for use with studio strobes. Without a meter, I would be forced to guess the correct f-stop when using my studio lights.