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As I understand it, the bin is a range say 365-374nm would be called 365. I bought a 365 and 385 LED of the same manufacturer and according to my OL-756 spectroradiometer the "365" was actually ~374nm and my "385" was ~378nm. Very disappointing as I was going for a little variety and got nearly the same thing.

Using the 'off center - bright spot' method (as illustrated in the photo at the top of this page) I got these readings using the MTE 301 and 303:

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True, it's very unlikely that a bin number (for the LED) can be known when buying manufactured flashes. For my "handmade" Haikus, McGizmo had the bin number and posted it for everyone to see.

When I turn on the Solartech with the flashlight set to high, it seems like the measurement overshoots the limit of 199.9 mW/cm2. Then the readings start flipping around all over the place. I'm guessing that this means that on high power this 365nm torch is outputting more than 200 mW/cm2 (see below for confirmation).

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Standardized design makes it can be directly stacked into an XY-configuration, and an XYZ assembly can be built using the available 90° angle brackets.

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Cool, but these look like they are designed to screw into a torch. You said 'flash'. Maybe you are using a slang for flashlight?

Different power settings are a function of the controller board and operated by partially pressing the tailcap button. I think the circuitry that does that may be under the tailcap button but I am not sure.

Steve, do you know which Nichia LED is in the MTE? I know someone has probably posted that somewhere but I cannot recall.

I tried a quick test, measuring it another way: First I removed the entire reflector assembly from the torch barrel, which leaves the bare LED (like the photo below).

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The folks who keep reptiles have standardized on the Solarmeters to compare UV output from vitamin D terrarium lamps. Problem is, as you have observed, it is a broadband meter that cannot discern differences in wavelength.

If you want to measure lower UV brightness, then the 5.7 is handy. It would work good for measuring the center of a beam at actual photography subject distance, but I have not tried that.

My UV-LED flashlights were made by McGizmo on Candlepowerforums.com back in 2009 or 2010. (Don't recall exactly when.) I have two of the titanium Haiku models. They are very small.

Where is the sensor on your Solarmeter? On the right side of the top? Mine is in the center of the top. It looks like your flashlights are not over the center part which is why I ask?

The MTE torch is the best, obviously, it has a real Nichia LED, I think it is actually rated at under 1W, but out performs the 1W and 3W torches by leaps and bounds.

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Oh geez -- sorry! I was being very sloppy/slangy back there! The Haikus are flashlights aka torches. I went back and corrected everything. :)

Apparently it is useful to know the lot number of the Nichia chip. Not all have the same output. This old 365 of mine had 3 possible lots of (max) output 230, 270 and 310 mW.

Still, I think we can use them to make rough power comparisons with each other. Apples to apples, better than trying to compare using meters that might vary in spectral sensitivity.

I know this is old news to many of you, and I have posted this somewhere else before, but this seems to be a better website for this material to reside, and someone asked me about this recently, so I will re-post it here, and please pardon any redundancy.

I've made good use of my Solarmeter to ensure (insofar as it is possible to do so) that during outdoor tests the amount of UV light is within a reasonable range so that, for example, one filter does not test badly against another. And also I simply enjoy measuring the UV. It is quite striking how much difference there is between the sun's UV output at high noon during winter vs. summer.

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The two weaker torches cost a lot less than the MTE. Since one was advertised as having a Nichia 365nm LED, and was much more affordable than the MTE, it looked like a good deal.

this will greatly expand the light coverage footprint. I am not sure if the LED shines in all directions with the same intensity, but it sure looks like it to me.

From comparing the LED's in my MTE 301 and MTE 303 to the small photos of the Nichia LED on the link below, it looks like the MTE 301 has the NCSU033B LED, and the MTE 303 has the NVSU233A LED.

oh la! No I didn't register that as tape over the button. I suppose I thought it was some kind of protective film. But anyway....thank you for the details.

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The reflector is designed to concentrate the light in a beam, remove it and you have even scattered light, it seems like.

Within a bin number they should be comparable but unless you are buying the just the chip itself to build a source you will likely never know the bin number.

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Eventually I'll get them "tagged". When you create one, you can also tag it. Then the post appears in one of the tag indexes.

By the way, to all of you that are thinking/discussing diffusers for the MTE, please try removing the entire reflector assembly from the torch barrel, and try the torch with no reflector,

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BTW, Steve, does your Solarmeter hold the reading when you let go of the button? Mine does not, so I would not be able to make a photo like you did with the flash on top of the meter.

I have some VIS LED multimode flashlights that not only have 3 power levels but also a rapid dazzler flash and can blink out an SOS!

Here I show a quick comparison of three 365nm torches I have, using two UV meters, Solarmeter SM 5.0, and Blak-Ray J221.

The UltraFire which was advertised as being a 1W Nichia LED, seems to actually be some other brand of LED, and has a fairly weak output compared to the MTE.

Within a bin number they should be comparable but unless you are buying the just the chip itself to build a source you will likely never know the bin number.

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You are talking about the pic up at the top of this page? Yes, that is a Solarmeter 5.0, just like yours. The button is a hold-down style on/off button, I use tape. See the clear tape over the button?

I'm going to work my torches again to see how the beam focuses and where the highest output is. So again thank you for the details. :D

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You can purchase Nichia LED's directly from Nichia. I don't have a price for the NCSU276A, but the NCSU033B and NVSU233A are both about $10 @ less than 100.

Within a bin number they should be comparable but unless you are buying the just the chip itself to build a source you will likely never know the bin number.

The Mastiff was advertised as a 3W LED (what looks like an integrated group of 3 LED's) and does seem to have more output power than the UltraFire in actual use, but is not Nichia (was not advertised as Nichia), and has very low power compared to the MTE.

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I would like to ask any of you to please add to this topic any torch models that you have compared to the MTE. Thank you.

To disperse light into its spectrum Sir. Isaac Newton used a prism. However, in recent years the diffraction grating has replaced the prism for this purpose ...

True, it's very unlikely that a bin number (for the LED) can be known when buying manufactured flashlights. For my "handmade" Haikus, McGizmo had the bin number and posted it for everyone to see.

These are UV flashlights/torches. Their peak output is 365nm, similar to 'black light' (or black light blue, which peaks at 365nm), however these torches are quite powerful and should never be used without UV eye protection!

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The 365nm Nichia LED is high quality and output. Some torches are advertised as using the Nichia, but in fact they are not, and the output is not near as strong.

I have visually matched the LED in my UV LED flashlight to the Nichia NCSU276A U365 which is rated at 780mW. I have to back away about 15 inches to not overload my SolarMeter. Not the top rated 365nm Nichia but not bad for a $20 to $25 UV flashlight. It is "on sale" on GearBest. The manufacturer runs his web store out of Aliexpress.com and the flashlight enthusiasts on Budgetlightforum.com seem to think highly of the guy.

Where is the sensor on your Solarmeter? On the right side of the top? Mine is in the center of the top. It looks like your flashlights are not over the center part which is why I ask? Just curious.

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I positioned the torches to produce the highest reading from each torch, this is due to the way the torches focus the beam, at that close of range it is off center (probably some better method, but works OK for me).

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