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Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributing columnist for the Star. Wineries occasionally sponsor segments on her YouTube series yet they have no role in the selection of the wines she chooses to review or her opinions of those wines. All prices are subject to change. Please drink responsibly. Reach her via email: carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com. Read about Carolyn’s scoring system here.
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We flew into Lyon on a Tuesday in August and poked about that city, which sits at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers — and breathed in the hot, sunny, gloriously calm beauty of it all.
The highlight of that day, as usual for vacations in France, was a meal. We stopped at a little unassuming place called Breizh Café and ordered galettes, those savoury buckwheat crepes that originated centuries ago in Brittany. The galettes arrived, folded over salty cured ham and melted mountain-air-scented Comté cheese with fried eggs on top. Each forkful was an edible dream. It set the tone for what I imagined to be a wonderful culinary adventure punctuated by glasses of marvellous wine.
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Carolyn Evans Hammond travelled as a guest of Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours, which did not review or approve this article.
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This column has been updated. Château de Pravins, a small stone winery, is not owned and run by the same family that founded it in 1251.
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Our personal butler introduced herself. She would be a phone call away the whole time, there to bring us linens, food and drinks. She was a genuinely delightful soul who gave us the impression her only care in the world was to please us. That impression was reinforced when we found Valhrona chocolates left on our pillows at turndown service each night. It’s in the details.
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By time we’d landed at Arles to disembark and take the journey home, we were on the mend but not 100 per cent. We took a coach to the Nice airport, then flew to Paris. I splurged on a business-class upgrade for our Air France flights home from Paris, which bought us some proper rest and relaxation during the eight-hour-and-15-minute flight.
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When we docked in Viviers, I was too ill to leave the ship, so we missed the two walking tours offered. One explored the heritage of the town, including such architectural treasures as the Cathedral of St. Vincent, built in the 11th century, and the other focused on the history of the French Resistance during the Nazi occupation of France during World War II.
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But a trip to the south of France introduced me to the rich, complex wines of the Rhône, and the penny dropped. As I sat at the edge of a vineyard, drinking a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, I fell hard. This wine was euphoric, and I knew, then and there, I had to move to Europe.
Six months later, I was working in London at a wine PR firm, attending and organizing tastings by day and taking wine classes by night. It was a fast-paced, fun-filled world.
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And there are worse things than being ill aboard a luxury ship filled with a crew who seems to want nothing more than to cater to your every whim as you rest.
From Mâcon, a small group of us were shuttled through the Beaujolais region to visit Château de Pravins, a small stone winery founded in 1251.
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After the first night on board, Geoffrey and I took a guided cycling tour to Lyon’s Parc de la Tête d’Or, a sprawling 117 hectares threaded by paved paths and dotted with monuments, botanical gardens and a zoo. This light activity was followed by dinner before the boat pushed off and cruised to the first port of Mâcon.
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One day I toddled downstairs to the lower deck to experience the salt therapy lounge, a room with salt-brick walls and lounge chairs said to offer a range of health benefits for respiratory and immune systems.
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The next day was spent finding the nearest pharmacy in Vienne, where the pharmacist gave me some herbal capsules that made me feel a bit better, but I slept for much of the next 24 hours or so, holed up in my cabin with Geoffrey caring for me.
That was more than 20 years ago. I ultimately returned to Toronto and to my journalism roots but with a firm focus on wine. I rattled off a couple of books, wrote for various publications and began writing the wine column for the Toronto Star.
All was going smoothly: Geoffrey and I were thoroughly enjoying ourselves aboard the ship — and then it happened. I fell ill with some sort of virus and was down and out, which kept me from another excursion that day. We would have visited an organic goat cheese farm to learn about open-air farming and the wild herbs the goats eat that enhance flavour of the milk, followed by a cheese tasting with local wine.
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Before that, in my 20s, I was making vin at one of those make-your-own-wine shops in Toronto, giving it to friends and thinking it was the height of sophistication. I was young, and I did not grow up with wine.
My sinus issues meant my ability to enjoy the food and wine aboard the ship were hampered, but Geoffrey seemed to enjoy the meals.
So, when Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours invited me recently to take a luxury Rhône river cruise aboard the Scenic Sapphire with my 20-year-old son, Geoffrey, I said yes. After all, the Rhône was where wine appreciation started for me. So, off we went.
Heavy bunches of berries, ripe and swollen, hung from rows upon rows of grapevines surrounding the winery. Harvest here would take place within days. The Gamay grape I tasted was plump with sweet, concentrated nectar. The bunches were pristine, and the vines carefully tended. The château is certified biodynamic, a method that builds on organic farming by using homeopathic treatments to enhance the health of the vineyard. And that purity was evident in the glass as we tasted several bottles with the winemaker that day.
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Upon our arrival to the spacious and well-appointed ship, they served us a lovely buffet lunch with sparkling wine, put our bags in our cabin and invited us to explore the boat. The sprawling sun deck, complete with hot tub, offered gorgeous views. The gym was small but useful and clean. And our balcony suite featured a floor-to-ceiling sliding-glass window for more river views.
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We boarded the Scenic Sapphire in Lyon, billed as a luxe little vessel designed for up to 163 guests, and settled into our balcony suite. The ship would take us south along the Rhône river, stopping at the towns of Mâcon, Vienne, Viviers and Avignon, before reaching the final port of Arles.
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I’d set out to show Geoffrey Châteauneuf-du-Pape and eat and drink our way through the region. With clogged sinuses and hampered taste buds, that did not go as planned. But we did spend a brief but marvellous time together in the south of France that we will remember for life.