You just need to have the laser spin evenly around the polo mark  so irrelevant how far the laser is out of collimation  .

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The circle should keep getting smaller. As you it gets really smell reduce the amount you turn to a quarter turn or less.

Now rotate the collimator again but aim to get the dot at the top of the circle, and choose a screw the same way and loosen it.

Well the problem is no matter what I try its just not really working, the screws are not going to the direction they should.

High contrast linear polarizer film sheet is perfect for a wide range of imaging applications and all kinds of experimentation.

A well-collimated laser collimator when rotated on itself, will generate a 10 mm circle on a wall when at a distance of 30 feet (9.144 meters). Adopting this criterion it's clear that the collimator has a deviation angle from the centerline (circle's center) equal to alfa, where alfa = 1.8 arc-minutes. So: A well-collimated collimator must have a deviation < 1.8 arc-minutes. Let's simplify and assume a maximum tolerance of 2 arc-minutes of deviation for any laser collimator. In that case, the deviation r [mm] at a distance L [mm] will be: r [mm] = L [mm] x tan ( 2 arc-minute) = L [mm] x tan (1/30) = L [mm] / 1719 r [mm] = L [mm] / 1719 Therefore, on a collimator with alfa < 2 arc-minutes at 30 ft (9144 mm) from a wall, we are considering it generates a circle with a diameter < 10.6 mm. A 10 or 11-mm circle is quite small so we need to increase the distance by at least 20 meters to have a circle of 23 mm, which has enough room for the laser dot and will let us draw the circle easily on paper and center it to make the proper corrections! Regards Andy

It is through the electromagnetic or mechanical action to have dichroic acid quinine sulfuric acid small crystals neatly arranged in a transparent plastic film made of.

Thanks, one important question, the laser doesn't need to be "10 feet away" to do it right? I'm not failing to do it because of the distance I'm trying I assume?..

i get this topic here which will be very helpfull to me.my laser collimator is also not steady  its red spot in constent position.i hope this advice will work for me.

The polarizing property of the dye-based polarizing film is inferior to that of the iodine system, but the wet heat resistance characteristic is good and belongs to the durability polarized film.

This may seem long and drawn out but you always move towards a better setting and will get on point faster. Doing large adjustments is actually slower in the end.

The second one a friend well more advanced than me collimated it for me but he even said done the best he could and it is only slightly out, I know you won't like this but I then check with a Cheshire/ sight tube.

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The darker the film, the more polarization it provides. Once the PVA is dyed and dried, it is delicate and hard to handle. To stabilize it, the film is mounted on a sheet of cellulose acetate butyrate (CAB).

The iodine polarizing film has a high permeability, high contrast and a wide range of wavelength bias characteristics, the price is relatively cheap, so for a wide range of applications.

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We sell 0 degree & 90 degree linear polarizer to American, India, Pakistan, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, Canada, UK, Philippines, NZ, France, Italy, Finland, Brazil, Germany and so on.

3Dlens have passed a linear polarizing test for durability 60°C / 90%RH / 500 Hours, so it is a good replacement for Polaroid and 3M HN32 & HN38.

Now rotate the collimator again but aim to get the dot at the top of the circle, and choose a screw the same way and loosen it.

Now bottom and tighten, followed by top and loosen. If at any point the screw feels tight, don't force it but do a top/loosen cycle twice instead. If it a screw feels loose, retighten it and do one or two bottom/tighten cycles

For example, when watching a three-dimensional movie, the audience needs to wear a pair of glasses, which is a pair of vibration perpendicular to each other polarized film.

Spin the laser in the focuser so the red laser spins around the polo mark on the mirror then adjust secondary so laser spins evenly around polo mark  , does it that make sense

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Basically the linear polarizer film structure is by 3 layers material; polarizing membrane PVA (Polyvinyl alcohol) and support layers TAC (Tri-acetate cellulose) on its both sides.

Plastic polarizer films are the least expensive and commonly used in liquid crystal display such as screens of calculators or computer monitors, polarized sunglasses, and 3D movie glasses.

Now bottom and tighten, followed by top and loosen. If at any point the screw feels tight, don't force it but do a top/loosen cycle twice instead. If it a screw feels loose, retighten it and do one or two bottom/tighten cycles

The circle should keep getting smaller. As you it gets really smell reduce the amount you turn to a quarter turn or less.

This may seem long and drawn out but you always move towards a better setting and will get on point faster. Doing large adjustments is actually slower in the end.

3Dlens Corporation's online shop supplies the highest quality pre-cut linear polarizing film in a various sizes near the A4 ~ A1 with superior extinction ratio and high transmittance of unpolarized light in the range of wavelength 400~700nm.

Polarized film is created from rolls of polyvinyl acetate (PVA). The process begins by heating and stretching PVA to a much longer and thinner sheet.

Some of the China made budget lasers and cheshires are a bit naff imo and are just not made well enough to be totally accurate out of the box. I ended up buying a Baader and it was spot on. The reason Howie Glatter and Hotech kit is so expensive is because they manufacture high quality, precision made devices.

Edit: Even with my laser collimated I mostly use a sight tube to collimate the secondary mirror, with the laser just to check/tweak. To collimate the primary mirror I use the barlowed laser method (just put a barlow between the focuser and laser). This turns the laser into a torch which illuminates the central part of the mirror and the centre spot. You then collimate the primary by centring the shadow of the primary spot on the collimator face. This method reduces the effects of inaccuracies in the collimation of your laser and secondary mirror.

It needs to be at least that I feel. The further the laser dot is projected, the easier it is to see where it varies as you rotate the laser around it's axis and the more accurate the collimation is, when you achieve it. I try and get around 30 feet and when adjusting, try and get the laser dot to stay within a 10mm circle, or better if possible.

Absolutely. IMO this bit really isn't optional if you want to ensure good collimation. An unbarlowed laser can be useful for rough alignment of the secondary, but that's about it in my view. On its own, I'd rather use a basic collimation cap than a laser.

The laser unit is held in the machined housing with a rubber "O" ring type thing at one end and three grub screws that go through the housing press against the laser unit at the other end of it. On some models you need to remove a label to reveal the grub screws I believe. You might need to loosen one grub screw a little to allow adjustment to another. You need to remove the screw on battery cover section and spring from the end of the collimator to allow the last unit inside to be free to move as well.

Another factor is securing the laser in your focuser. A single screw will knock the laser off centre. For this reason I prefer the Hotech with it’s expansion rings which keep the laser centered. My HoTech came perfectly collimated and when used it’s in perfect agreement with my Cheshire and cap.

So if you insert the laser in the focus tube and spin it, how vast the gap should be? Do you mind filming a really short video showing that when you're free?

Thanks, one important question, the laser doesn't need to be "10 feet away" to do it right? I'm not failing to do it because of the distance I'm trying I assume?..

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Rotate the collimator and the dot describes a circle. Get the dot at the bottom of the circle. If a screw is more or less at the top, tighten by half a turn. If a pair of screws are either side of the top, turn one of them to the top and tighten by half a turn.

You just need to have the laser spin evenly around the polo mark  so irrelevant how far the laser is out of collimation  .

So if you insert the laser in the focus tube and spin it, how vast the gap should be? Do you mind filming a really short video showing that when you're free?

I agree with you,  bosun21! A very important point you mention by the way! Indeed this is a problem with many drawtube's eyepiece holders...😢 Laser collimators and Cheshires will show this off-centering when we tighten the retention screw... A partial solution is to make the collimator body fit more tightly (a scotch tape around usually will do), being the recommendation not to tighten the screw when we achieve a tight fit using this method.

Onto this bare polarizer, additional treatments are applied such as an adhesive glue, hard coating, antiglare, anti-reflection and other surface treatments.

It needs to be at least that I feel. The further the laser dot is projected, the easier it is to see where it varies as you rotate the laser around it's axis and the more accurate the collimation is, when you achieve it. I try and get around 30 feet and when adjusting, try and get the laser dot to stay within a 10mm circle, or better if possible.

Fortunately I have a lathe which makes collimating your collimator easy.  Mount the collimator in the chuck, tape a piece of paper on the far wall and slowly rotate the chuck. Word of warning though: many modern 3 jaw chucks do not run true, so you may have to use a 4 jaw & dial it in.

At present in the general polarization instrument and many of the partial and the partial detection device using artificial polarizer.

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The iodine is absorbed into the molecular chains forming long grids of parallel and darkened lines. The film is then dyed to the color of the desired finished film.

The principle is that we usually only use two glasses to see the object to produce three-dimensional sense, if the use of two shots, such as the human eye, from two different directions at the same time takes the film scene image, made positive film.

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I place the collimator in a v-block (anything that supports it in a fixed orientation is fine) aimed at a wall about 16 feet away.

Polarized films are widely used in research labs, the optical industry and equipment. Commercially available polarizers are made from different materials such as glass, crystal or plastic.

A bigger problem is that after about 30 minutes of trying to collimate the laser, the screws worn out and it was just unusable, so I just used regular screws instead, it should work in theory, after all its only laser with screws that push it to whatever direction you need, the weird this is, when 1 specific screw is not screwed at all, the laser circle(when you spin the laser to check if its collimated) is not so big, but after screwing the screw(is that how you supposed to write it? o: the gap is widening, eventually, no matter really what I try, I just can't seem to manage to collimate it. Maybe I'm doing something wrong possibly? Hopefully someone will be able to help me and give me some advices.

Affordable linear polarizing film is ideal for class demonstrations relating to polarized light experiments, rotator, light scattering, light reflection.

Hello, I purchased a laser colliator but unfortunately I'm facing a problem, I knew that I need to collimate the laser before I purchsed it, and I got something just for that at home, so I thought it wouldn't be a problem, but for a reason I don't seem to be able to collimate the laser, at first the laser was a bit off, so I tried playing with the screws, but it just didn't really worked, no matter when I did the laser was just not going to the direction I needed it to.

The earliest artificial polarizer was invented by Polaroid company Edwin H. Land in 1928. Although it has 94 years of history, but the process principle and material are still roughly the same.

Another factor is securing the laser in your focuser. A single screw will knock the laser off centre. For this reason I prefer the Hotech with it’s expansion rings which keep the laser centered. My HoTech came perfectly collimated and when used it’s in perfect agreement with my Cheshire and cap.

The applications of polarized film are 3D glasses for movie, polarized sunglasses, polarized fishing glasses, polarizing microscope, camera filter, photography studio light, polariscope, rotating filter by using two polarizers, photoelastic stress analysis, glare reduction, speedometer instrument cluster, window light control, Nintendo Gameboy, monochrome LCD, STN black & white monitor, 3d printer, calculator, dental photography and DIY experiment.

Our linear polarizer film material will not fade under normal exposure to the light. Under room temperature and humidity, the life will last for 10~20 years.

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The dichroic dye is usually a solution of iodine and potassium iodide. And then extend the dyeing film, extending to give the Dichroic dye arrangement, the higher the order, the prepared polarizing film optical properties are better.

It is a filter sheet which allows a specific polarization of light waves to pass through and block other light called a polarizer sheet (polarizing film) or Polaroid filter.

Edit: Even with my laser collimated I mostly use a sight tube to collimate the secondary mirror, with the laser just to check/tweak. To collimate the primary mirror I use the barlowed laser method (just put a barlow between the focuser and laser). This turns the laser into a torch which illuminates the central part of the mirror and the centre spot. You then collimate the primary by centring the shadow of the primary spot on the collimator face. This method reduces the effects of inaccuracies in the collimation of your laser and secondary mirror.

Right, Mike! 👍🤜🤛🔭 Your description of how to proceed is excellent! I just wanted to give some numbers and the general formula so our colleagues would understand why it's essential to put a reasonable distance between the laser and the wall, I'd like to use 10 to 20 meters.  I forgot to mention narrowing the laser beam even more! 1st - Regulate the laser lens to have the point focused at the calibration distance. 2nd - Open the collimator and under the 45º diagonal, just in front of the laser exit (internal) glue an aluminum foil, press your finger on it so the central hole appears, and with a needle, punch a small hole at its center. This will reduce considerably the laser dot diameter, which is not a dot because the solid-state laser beam is generated at a rectilinear junction. The laser point should have an internal diaphragm, which has not. So we make one at the exit.  This mod really improves the laser collimator performance making the dot smaller! Regards and clear skies for us all!🙏🔭 Andy

It needs to be at least that I feel. The further the laser dot is projected, the easier it is to see where it varies as you rotate the laser around it's axis and the more accurate the collimation is, when you achieve it. I try and get around 30 feet and when adjusting, try and get the laser dot to stay within a 10mm circle, or better if possible.

I place the collimator in a v-block (anything that supports it in a fixed orientation is fine) aimed at a wall about 16 feet away.

Rotate the collimator and the dot describes a circle. Get the dot at the bottom of the circle. If a screw is more or less at the top, tighten by half a turn. If a pair of screws are either side of the top, turn one of them to the top and tighten by half a turn.

I don't have the facility to film it I'm afraid. You turn the laser collimator slowly around 360 degrees, stopping every 90 degrees and marking the position of the laser dot on a piece of paper taped up around 30 feet from the laser unit. The V-block and laser unit must stay completely still in one place of course during this rotation. That shows you how far out the unit currently is. Then you pick a grub screw, hold the laser collimator in place in the V block (and the V-block exactly where it was as well) and make an adjustment to the screw noting which way the laser dot moves - hopefully towards a spot at or near the centre of your 4 90 degree marks. The repeat the rotation, mark accordingly and adjust again as necessary. It is a bit trial and error I'm afraid.

So if you insert the laser in the focus tube and spin it, how vast the gap should be? Do you mind filming a really short video showing that when you're free?

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I don't have the facility to film it I'm afraid. You turn the laser collimator slowly around 360 degrees, stopping every 90 degrees and marking the position of the laser dot on a piece of paper taped up around 30 feet from the laser unit. That shows you how far out the unit currently is. Then you pick a grub screw, hold the laser collimator in place in the V block and make an adjustment to the screw noting which way the laser dot moves - hopefully towards a spot at or near the centre of your 4 90 degree marks. The repeat the rotation, mark accordingly and adjust again as necessary. It is a bit trial and error I'm afraid.

Iodine standard linear polarizing film applications is in a wide range, such as watches, calculator computers, PC, OA machines. In addition, cars, ships, aircraft, outdoor measurement equipment for the use of dye-based polarizing film such a durable polarizing film.

Light is an electromagnetic wave, the general light in the forward, the electromagnetic vibration direction in all directions. If the electromagnetic vibration occurs only in a plane, that is, the direction of the electric field vibration and magnetic field direction fixed light is called polarized light. The direction of its electric field is called the polarization direction of light.

Not really unfortunately, I've already seen any video I could find about that, but with no use, the thing is its possible that my collimator is faulty, so idk really if its just me and its the collimator, or both...

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Just one more thing, I know the long debate about laser vs cheshire, please spare replies such as "get a cheshire" or "you should've bought a cheshire" and so on, maybe its true, maybe I learned it the hard way, but its still not helping my situation, so thats just it, thanks a lot

The laser unit is held in the machined housing with a rubber "O" ring type thing at one end and three grub screws that go through the housing press against the laser unit at the other end of it. On some models you need to remove a label to reveal the grub screws I believe. You might need to loosen one grub screw a little to allow adjustment to another. You need to remove the screw on battery cover section and spring from the end of the collimator to allow the last unit inside to be free to move as well.

In the projection through the two projectors with the vibration direction perpendicular to each other, two linearly polarized light superimposed on the screen, the human eye through the above polarized glasses to watch, each eye can only see a corresponding independent image, Like a direct view to produce a three-dimensional feeling.

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