Optical Adapters - fiber optic adapters
Why Clean a Rifle Scope? When you are using a scope, let's be honest you are gonna be outside and the outside world is full of grit, grime, dust, mud and strange little fibers. There's a lot of stuff out there and it's going to get on your scope. Most scopes are built to withstand the outside world pretty well, unfortunately, spending so much time cleaning the gun that we tend to forget about the scope. If you spend any time outdoors you know how important it is to be able to see things clearly. The best way to clean your rifle scope properly It's not a secret that if a cleaning process is not done right you can damage your rifle. When it comes to cleaning guns one of our opinions is that you need to use gun products. We are big believers than it is better to use products that were specifically designed for firearms. If your previous cleaning tools were usually limited to toilet paper and paintbrushes you've searched for yourself it will not have a very good effect. Remember: a rifle is a machine and it is needed to be properly lubricated and cared for. So, what can we as civilian shooters can do when we have high-dollar optics? The first thing you'll need is a kit which is a really important and awesome device. You'll also need a cleaning cloth, slid cleaning pin with a dusting brush (microfiber pen), and a cleaning spray. Now, let's go through the process. Most people don't take the scope off when they clean a rifle. It's just too darn much trouble to have re zero it every time. If you are going to leave the scope on when you're cleaning your rifle put the flip covers on. The cleaning brushes pop off a tiny bit of mist when they come out of the bore and that mist is not friendly for your lenses. It can even leave a greasy film behind that you also have to clean off. But if it has been a rainy nasty range trip and the optic is actually wet, make sure the caps are open when you store it, and that way you can give the lenses time to dry out. The retaining rings might have a tendency to rust if you trap moisture in and keep these caps closed. So, leave them open, let the rifle get some air, and let those lenses dry out before you put it away. Dusting Dust can cut down the clarity, light transmission, and even the field of view. A little dirt and dust on your lens aren't going to do any physical damage and you can generally let it sit there until it becomes noticeable. Then you try to clean lenses improperly and the dirt becomes a dangerous weapon. Step one, point the optical surface down and blow, just remember not to spray it and the dust will have a good chance to fall right off. We recommend that you start cleaning your rifle from the top because if there is any dust at the bottom, it's going to blow it up against the lenses. Get off the bulk with the blower and remove the little pieces that might have stuck with a brush. It’s also vital to avoid spraying the cleaner directly onto the lens.Nevertheless, you have a strong, high-quality glass, do not press hard on it! Brushing If you've ever cleaned a camera lens, this process is going to seem mighty familiar. You might even have one of those nifty lens cleaning brush pens lying around. The paintbrush is good for getting into nooks and crannies on your turrets and anywhere that dust has a tendency to cake up on the outside of the optic but make sure it is well marked and that is never ever used on the lenses of your scope. By the way, our preference for general cleaning of the lenses themselves is a lens pen that you can get at any supply store. The key thing here is that the bristle brush is really nice. Flip it a couple of times before you use it to knock anything off. Knockout with light strokes anything that's hanging out in there. Go from the center outward because the glass in the center of your optic is usually the most important. This method is a little more forgiving than dusting side to side all the way down. That will do 90% of your lens cleaning. It's a good idea to get some of that dust out of the side of the glass. Don't try to force it. Remember, we don't want to scratch anything! If you are having trouble with lint bristles you can retract the bristles part away to shorten them up. Microfiber Cloth and Smudge Removal Now we can deal with lovely fingerprints and mascara marks. When you buy a scope there's going to be a little microfiber cloth included in the packaging most times. It's the same when you buy a camera, lens or eyeglasses. Microfiber cloth is built for this kind of work. Check to make sure your cloth hasn't got wet, hasn't touched solvents, and isn't covered in dirt. If you are trying to get into any tough to reach crevices and can't quite fit you can wrap your cloth around the q-tip and use that to help the rich. The other reason we recommend the lens pens is because on the opposite side you have this nifty little microfiber cloth that has a cleaning compound embedded in it. If you have already had such a pen, make sure you've knocked all the grit out, take the microfiber pad and try to eliminate minor smudges and fingerprints blotches from the lens. Be very careful and gentle! Use it with a little pressure because you can possibly scratch the lense. Why don't we recommend doing it with a piece of cloth? When the idea to take a t-shirt and wipe a lens with it comes to your mind, imagine how much it was picking up grit, sweat, salts. Stop yourself from digging it into your scope. Once you've finished that, take a look and see what the stuff you have on your lenses. If it is just water spots, you can probably go grab some distilled water, take a cotton ball and get most of those spots off it. If you have fingerprints on your lenses alcohol and water may not be the better option, it's time to step up to a bit higher level solvent and use a gun cleaning oil. If you want to get absolutely everything off those lenses the first thing you're gonna do is to take some acetone on a cotton swab then go around the outside edge of the lens where the lens meets the metal housing. Take a couple of passes until you get that clean. Afterward, take the cotton ball and some acetone and repeat the circular movements getting the water or oil spots off the middle. As you are trying to pick it up and get it off but not to grind it in, so be careful. Cleaning the Scope body In honesty, cleaning the outside of the body isn't going to improve the performance. However, it's definitely good to clean any grime o ff the turrets just to keep your scope in a good condition. We have two pieces of advice for you here: 1. Don't use anything that has cleaning solvents because such liquid can leak at the joints and start to break down your o-rings. 2. Don't use the same brush on the turrets that you'd use on the lens. The lens takes priority! On the turrets, we're going to go about the things the same way worked on the lenses. Brush first, brush gently and try to make sure that you are brushing away from many openings.
Note that commands() is never executed for the package actually being built. If you want to run commands in that case, you can use pre_build_commands() instead.
Rez supports multiple build systems, and new ones can be added as plugins. When a build is invoked, the build system is detected automatically. For example, if a CMakeLists.txt file is found in the package’s root directory, the cmake build system is used.
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Why Clean a Rifle Scope? When you are using a scope, let's be honest you are gonna be outside and the outside world is full of grit, grime, dust, mud and strange little fibers. There's a lot of stuff out there and it's going to get on your scope. Most scopes are built to withstand the outside world pretty well, unfortunately, spending so much time cleaning the gun that we tend to forget about the scope. If you spend any time outdoors you know how important it is to be able to see things clearly. The best way to clean your rifle scope properly It's not a secret that if a cleaning process is not done right you can damage your rifle. When it comes to cleaning guns one of our opinions is that you need to use gun products. We are big believers than it is better to use products that were specifically designed for firearms. If your previous cleaning tools were usually limited to toilet paper and paintbrushes you've searched for yourself it will not have a very good effect. Remember: a rifle is a machine and it is needed to be properly lubricated and cared for. So, what can we as civilian shooters can do when we have high-dollar optics? The first thing you'll need is a kit which is a really important and awesome device. You'll also need a cleaning cloth, slid cleaning pin with a dusting brush (microfiber pen), and a cleaning spray. Now, let's go through the process. Most people don't take the scope off when they clean a rifle. It's just too darn much trouble to have re zero it every time. If you are going to leave the scope on when you're cleaning your rifle put the flip covers on. The cleaning brushes pop off a tiny bit of mist when they come out of the bore and that mist is not friendly for your lenses. It can even leave a greasy film behind that you also have to clean off. But if it has been a rainy nasty range trip and the optic is actually wet, make sure the caps are open when you store it, and that way you can give the lenses time to dry out. The retaining rings might have a tendency to rust if you trap moisture in and keep these caps closed. So, leave them open, let the rifle get some air, and let those lenses dry out before you put it away. Dusting Dust can cut down the clarity, light transmission, and even the field of view. A little dirt and dust on your lens aren't going to do any physical damage and you can generally let it sit there until it becomes noticeable. Then you try to clean lenses improperly and the dirt becomes a dangerous weapon. Step one, point the optical surface down and blow, just remember not to spray it and the dust will have a good chance to fall right off. We recommend that you start cleaning your rifle from the top because if there is any dust at the bottom, it's going to blow it up against the lenses. Get off the bulk with the blower and remove the little pieces that might have stuck with a brush. It’s also vital to avoid spraying the cleaner directly onto the lens.Nevertheless, you have a strong, high-quality glass, do not press hard on it! Brushing If you've ever cleaned a camera lens, this process is going to seem mighty familiar. You might even have one of those nifty lens cleaning brush pens lying around. The paintbrush is good for getting into nooks and crannies on your turrets and anywhere that dust has a tendency to cake up on the outside of the optic but make sure it is well marked and that is never ever used on the lenses of your scope. By the way, our preference for general cleaning of the lenses themselves is a lens pen that you can get at any supply store. The key thing here is that the bristle brush is really nice. Flip it a couple of times before you use it to knock anything off. Knockout with light strokes anything that's hanging out in there. Go from the center outward because the glass in the center of your optic is usually the most important. This method is a little more forgiving than dusting side to side all the way down. That will do 90% of your lens cleaning. It's a good idea to get some of that dust out of the side of the glass. Don't try to force it. Remember, we don't want to scratch anything! If you are having trouble with lint bristles you can retract the bristles part away to shorten them up. Microfiber Cloth and Smudge Removal Now we can deal with lovely fingerprints and mascara marks. When you buy a scope there's going to be a little microfiber cloth included in the packaging most times. It's the same when you buy a camera, lens or eyeglasses. Microfiber cloth is built for this kind of work. Check to make sure your cloth hasn't got wet, hasn't touched solvents, and isn't covered in dirt. If you are trying to get into any tough to reach crevices and can't quite fit you can wrap your cloth around the q-tip and use that to help the rich. The other reason we recommend the lens pens is because on the opposite side you have this nifty little microfiber cloth that has a cleaning compound embedded in it. If you have already had such a pen, make sure you've knocked all the grit out, take the microfiber pad and try to eliminate minor smudges and fingerprints blotches from the lens. Be very careful and gentle! Use it with a little pressure because you can possibly scratch the lense. Why don't we recommend doing it with a piece of cloth? When the idea to take a t-shirt and wipe a lens with it comes to your mind, imagine how much it was picking up grit, sweat, salts. Stop yourself from digging it into your scope. Once you've finished that, take a look and see what the stuff you have on your lenses. If it is just water spots, you can probably go grab some distilled water, take a cotton ball and get most of those spots off it. If you have fingerprints on your lenses alcohol and water may not be the better option, it's time to step up to a bit higher level solvent and use a gun cleaning oil. If you want to get absolutely everything off those lenses the first thing you're gonna do is to take some acetone on a cotton swab then go around the outside edge of the lens where the lens meets the metal housing. Take a couple of passes until you get that clean. Afterward, take the cotton ball and some acetone and repeat the circular movements getting the water or oil spots off the middle. As you are trying to pick it up and get it off but not to grind it in, so be careful. Cleaning the Scope body In honesty, cleaning the outside of the body isn't going to improve the performance. However, it's definitely good to clean any grime o ff the turrets just to keep your scope in a good condition. We have two pieces of advice for you here: 1. Don't use anything that has cleaning solvents because such liquid can leak at the joints and start to break down your o-rings. 2. Don't use the same brush on the turrets that you'd use on the lens. The lens takes priority! On the turrets, we're going to go about the things the same way worked on the lenses. Brush first, brush gently and try to make sure that you are brushing away from many openings.
You don’t need to run rez-env after every install. If your package’s requirements haven’t changed, you can keep using the existing test environment.
Build utilities. For example, you may have a package called pyqt_cmake_utils, which provides CMake macros for converting ui files to py;
This is achieved by listing build-time dependencies under a build_requires or private_build_requires section in the package.py. The requirements in private_build_requires are only used from the package being built. Requirements from build_requires however are transitive, build requirements from all packages in the build environment are included.
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The short answer is, that is entirely up to you. Rez is not actually a build system. It supports various build systems (as the next section describes), and it configures the build environment, but the details of the build itself are left open for the user. Having said that, CMake has been supported by rez for some time, and rez comes with a decent amount of utility code to manage CMake builds.
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When rez-build is run on this package, the given build.sh script will be executed with bash. The {root} string expands to the root path of the package (the same directory containing package.py. The {install} string expands to install if an install is occurring, or the empty string otherwise. This is useful for passing the install target directly to the command (for example, when using make) rather than relying on a build script checking the REZ_BUILD_INSTALL environment variable.
Sometimes it is desirable for a package to depend on another package only for the purposes of building its code, or perhaps generating documentation. Let’s use documentation as an example: a C++ project may need to builds its docs using doxygen, but once the docs are generated, doxygen is no longer needed.
Each build occurs within a build path which is typically either a build subdirectory, or a variant-specific subdirectory under build. For example, a package with two python-based variants might look like this:
This chapter examines propagating electric and magnetic fields and links them to the observable properties of light.
How to clean a rifle scopeat home
As it happens, the find_package CMake macro searches the paths listed in the CMAKE_MODULE_PATH environment variable, and looks for a file called FindXXX.cmake, where XXX is the name of the package (in this case, Boost), which it then includes.
Shortwave infrared lenses offers unique imaging advantages over visible and other thermal bands. SWIR lenses are sensitive for finite detail recognition.
First, some build system plugins add extra options to the rez-build command directly. For example, if you are in a CMake-based package, and you run rez-build -h, you will see cmake-specific options listed, such as --build-target.
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An example use case of build_requires is a header-only (hpp) C++ library. If your own C++ package includes this library in its own headers, other packages will also need this library at build time (since they may include your headers, which in turn include the hpp headers).
Let’s say I have two C++ packages, maya_utils and the well-known boost library. How does maya_utils find boost’s header files, or library files?
When a rez environment is configured, each required package’s commands() section configures the environment for the building package to use. When a build is occurring, a special variable building is set to True. Your required packages should use this variable to communicate build information to the package being built.
The added arguments are stored into environment variables so that your build script can access them. They are prefixed with __PARSE_ARG_; in our example above, the variable __PARSE_ARG_FOO will be set. Booleans will be set to 0/1, and lists are space separated, with quotes where necessary.
Then, the package’s build_requires is appended. This is transitive, meaning that the build_requires of all other packages in the environment are also used;
Mirrors reflect nearly all of the light that strikes them. The reflection is caused by the metallic coating on the rear. Your body reflects patterns of light to ...
After you’ve made some code changes, you presumably want to test them. You do this by locally installing the package, then resolving an environment with rez-env to test the package in. The cycle goes like this:
Rifle scopecare
A few specialty glues set up and harden quickly when exposed to ultraviolet light. They're good for attaching hinges to glass. December 2, 2006.
A local install builds and installs the package to the local package repository, which is typically the directory ~/packages. This directory is listed at the start of the package search path, so when you resolve an environment to test with, the locally installed package will be picked up first. Your package will typically be installed to ~/packages/name/version, for example ~/packages/maya_utils/1.0.5. If you have variants, they will be installed into subdirectories within this install path (see Disk Structure for more details).
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Second, you can pass arguments directly to the build system, either using the rez-build --build-args option or listing the build system arguments after --.
The current working directory during a build is set to the build path, not to the package root directory. For this reason, you will typically use the {root} string to refer to a build script in the package’s root directory.
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You can add arguments for your build script to the rez-build command directly, by providing a parse_build_args.py source file in the package root directory. Here is an example:
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As well as detecting the build system from build files, a package can explicitly specify its own build command, using the build_command package attribute. If present, this takes precedence over other detected build systems.