Best Magnifying Glassfor reading

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I never found myself using the smaller lens on the swivel, and it in fact eventually broke off from being rammed into my work light when leaning forward.

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Not all lasers will work for making holograms. For red-sensitive PFG-03M and PFG-01 recording materials, you must use a laser with a wavelength between 632nm and 670nm. The laser must also have single-mode stabilized frequency, sufficient coherence length (of at least one foot or 30cm recommended), and sufficient output (at least 1.5 mW recommended). Most red Helium Neon (HeNe) lasers are appropriate for holography, while most laser pointers, on the other hand, do not work at all.

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@corsutton Hits the mark here. I have reader magnifier eyeglasses from +2 to +6 that I use for all my modeling. I keep them lined up at the back of my bench and just switch among them when I need more or less magnification. They are much lighter and less claustrophobic than a visor and you can easily look over them to locate tools / read instructions. They let in more light. They’re cheaper than an Optivisor, too. You can order a whole set online from any number of sources or find them at the dollar store.

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However, they’re cheap because their lenses are plastic. My problem with them was that I either wound up scratching them (always in a spot directly in front of my eyes!) or I splashed a drop or two of some solvent-based paint, glue, filler, etc. on them which etched permanent defects.

If you wear glasses, then ones like SableLiger recommended are great, as they fit down over your prescription glasses. If you don’t wear prescription glasses then look for “cheaters”, “readers”, whatever you want to call them. The higher the number, the more magnification. I use 1.5 for reading and computer work. I use 3.5 for model working. I think you can get them as high as 6.0, check Amazon.

Having said all of the above, I do have a number of modeling friends who really like the inexpensive drug-store magnified “reading glasses.” These might be worth checking out (especially since you can just walk into the drug store and try them on).

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Use your experience with the magnification and working distance you get with the cheap ones to select and buy the appropriate ground-glass magnification power lens plate (or plates). You don’t need to buy the entire Optivisor boxed set with all of the available lens plates at once. You can buy them individually, as needed.

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Screenshot_20240223-0830011080×2460 137 KB Have the this pair. $15.95. + shipping. They have bright led lights that are rechargeable. Work great with my reading glasses . interchangeable. Lens.

Once you get used to wearing them, you’ll never work without them again. First thing I do when I walk into my workroom is to put them on and taking them off is the last thing I do before turning out the lights.

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With your own laser, you may need to purchase a separate optical beam spreader. While a variety of lenses work, we recommend using a first-surface concave mirror (which can be found from optical suppliers for about $35). You will want a lens that spreads out the laser beam to cover the recording plate sufficiently when the lens is placed approximately 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60cm) from the plate.

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Many of the tutorials on our website assume the use of the Integraf Holography Diode Laser. If you're eager to use your own holography laser, the great news is that all our instructions still apply. You'll just want keep in mind the following considerations.

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But I manage to get by with my 4x Opti Visor, two 1.7x ring-light magnifiers, a 5x hand loupe, a 10x jeweler’s loupe and a 17x geologist’s magnifier, and lots of light.

I have one similar to SableLiger’s; I think mine is an Optivisor or a knock-off. It came with a set of different magnification inserts depending on your needs.

For example, if your laser's output is 1.5mW, you need to expose twice as long as described in the instructions (20 seconds instead of 10 seconds)—watch out for vibration! If your laser has an output of 35mW, your exposure time is about 1/10th of that previously described (1 second instead of 10 seconds). Note that the published output of a HeNe laser is often not the actual output. You may need to experiment first.

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I finally pulled the trigger on a pair of genuine Optivisors with a couple of different magnification power lenses. As @flatfour observes, the lenses are glass and so are nearly impervious to scratches and anything I’ve every splashed on them has wiped and cleaned away with no problems.

I’ve been doing ok so far whilst building 1:35 armor. However the Takom Hetzer full interior kit has me thinking about more help to see the tiny parts which challenge these 91 year old eyes… I currently use one of those magnifiers thats on a huge boom and can swivel… etc. It doesn’t give me room to work under it when I really really need it. Perhaps a set of magnifying eyeglasses. that focus at 12-14". That’ll let me see and still swing tools around.

Depending on the output of your laser, the exposure time may differ from that described in the instructions and tutorials on our site. If your laser has an output greater than 3mW (the estimated effective output of the Integraf holography diode laser) you will need less exposure time. If your laser has less output than 3mW, you need more time.

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