Light Diffusion & Light Control Film | WhiteOptics - Acuity Brands - light diffusion film
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Myself, I use U-360. U-340 (or UG11) is better for filtering light, torches, flash, because it cuts off more of the 400- range.
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Something else to consider would be a U330/UG5 filter. It gives you a green UV pattern look in color, but looks the usual way in monochrome. Thats a way to squeeze out some extra stops if you are only converting to monochrome.
Read that U 360 is good to 350nm. My camera, Igoriginal 35 and El-Nikkors go to 330nm. Should I be considering U 340 instead (with S8612)?
Sooner or later you probably WILL try your luck with that wall, cause everybody does, but what you will find is that below 350nm you have less and less light to work with, and the camera acts like an old man with cataracts, and you start to find light leaks that you never knew existed in your camera body, and the infrared and visible light contamination that you THOUGHT you’d conquered are back again because now even OD5 blocking is not enough when the light is so dim and your poor straining camera is half blind.
To get down lower you need custom lighting. 340nm leds are still too expensive and the 335nm Mercury lines isn't nearly as strong as the 365nm or even 313nm lines.
We also offer many of the cap screws, nuts, and setscrews used in these kits in packages of 25 or 50, which are useful for refilling the more frequently used kit components. Click on the links in the tables below to see the corresponding package of 25 or 50 screws.
If you have a special 340bp or 335bp filter stacked with u340 to block the IR leakage, than you can get the 335nm line out a blb compact fluorescent bulb.
@ulfand @Andy Perrinthanks. Got excited when a Hoya 52mm U 340 showed up for sale. Now I know why. I don't need more light leaks or flare. Still fighting the new helicoid for El-Nikkor 135. Causes hotspot that isn't there with bellows. Don't even get me started on M42 adapters.
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Thanks @dabatemanfor the reply. Just noticed the filter is 3mm thick. It is a strange one, probably too specialized for my needs.
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Thorlabs' cap screw and setscrew kits are an essential part of any lab setup, especially when using optomechanical hardware. They provide a generous assortment of precisely machined screws, washers and nuts of different sizes within a conveniently organized storage box. Also available are screw kits specifically designed for use with our Mini-Series Construction Components. Screw kits are available in imperial or metric versions.
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The input light going into the linear polarizer filter is known as being randomly polarized (I prefer that term over unpolarized light because all light is ...
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The U360 gives a bluer image than the U340, which is more yellowish. If you like that than its ok. I like a more golden image.
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I think so too. Sadly the camera gain falls so fast past 350 that it’s like hitting a wall. It’s true that you can bash through a wall if you push hard enough, but sensible people who just want ordinary UV photos and aren’t trying to push their equipment to the limits (where it doesn’t perform very well) probably shouldn’t.
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Thread Adapter Kits are available in both imperial and metric varieties. Both kits come packaged in an organizing box with convenient scaled drawing labels and contain our most popular thread adapters. See below for a list of the specific adapters contained in each kit.
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Read that U 360 is good to 350nm. My camera, Igoriginal 35 and El-Nikkors go to 330nm. Should I be considering U 340 instead (with S8612)?