Industrial Machine Vision Cameras | Vision Imaging Products - computer vision camera

 2024-09-05 05:49:20

All ND filters are gray in color. The deeper the color, the stronger the effect (i.e., reducing more light). The following shows Nikon's ND4 (font) and ND8 (rear) filters. From the shadows, it is clear that a ND8 blocks more light than a ND4 does. Based on this understanding, ND filters help us in at least three situations: (1) reduce the intensity of light; (2) use slower shutter speed; and (3) use larger aperture. We shall discuss each of these situation briefly below. Reducing the Intensity of Light Nikon Coolpix 950, 990 and 995 have smallest aperture (resp., fastest shutter speed) f11.4, f11 and f10.3 (resp., 1/750, 1/1000 and 1/2000). Occasionally, it is possible that a correct exposure cannot be achieved even with the smallest aperture and fastest shutter speed. In such cases, ND filters become useful, because they can reduce the intensity of the light so that a photo can be taken within the limit of your camera. This is actually a common situation when film cameras and high speed films are used. Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

NDfilterchart

Raw Long Exposure Apps for the iPhone do so by computationally blending a series of shots to create the final long exposure image as a 12MP Bayer Raw File.

The ReeXpose app produces Raw files, but like every other long exposure app available at the moment, those are limited to 12MP Bayer Raw files, which despite not sounding much by todays standards, are very acceptable and workable. Digitalab even printed one of my iPhone long exposure 12MP Bayer Raw File images at 72” on the longest edge, and it came out looking great …

Using Neutral Density Filters made it possible for me to correctly expose the image with a 2 second exposure to give motion and blur to the waves as they crash against the rocks …

Look at the image below and notice the overlapping of files. You don’t notice this at longer exposure times but with fewer images taken at a faster long exposure (if that makes sense) it makes it harder to blend together … because there’s less files to overlap.

Whatever the technical reason / limitations there are for this I really do hope in the near future this is overcome, otherwise Apple continually calling the camera system “Pro” could start to get a little bit "Boy who cried Wolf” if you know what I mean.

Thinking of this in really basic terms … as that’s not being used to blend images together, it should in theory produce a single shot long exposure right? When I’m sat in my office with the phone in those manual settings and move it around the image is blurry so that should work for moving objects like the sea right?

For example, Tiffen and B+W have 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 ND filters for reducing one, two and three stops of light. Hoya, on the other hand, uses 2×, 4× and 8× to indicate reducing 1 (i.e. 2=21), 2 (i.e., 4=22), and 3 (i.e., 8=23) stops. The two ND filters come with Nikon's Coolpack are of ND4 and ND8 type, which means they reduce two and three stops, respectively. All ND filters are gray in color. The deeper the color, the stronger the effect (i.e., reducing more light). The following shows Nikon's ND4 (font) and ND8 (rear) filters. From the shadows, it is clear that a ND8 blocks more light than a ND4 does. Based on this understanding, ND filters help us in at least three situations: (1) reduce the intensity of light; (2) use slower shutter speed; and (3) use larger aperture. We shall discuss each of these situation briefly below. Reducing the Intensity of Light Nikon Coolpix 950, 990 and 995 have smallest aperture (resp., fastest shutter speed) f11.4, f11 and f10.3 (resp., 1/750, 1/1000 and 1/2000). Occasionally, it is possible that a correct exposure cannot be achieved even with the smallest aperture and fastest shutter speed. In such cases, ND filters become useful, because they can reduce the intensity of the light so that a photo can be taken within the limit of your camera. This is actually a common situation when film cameras and high speed films are used. Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

Nikon Coolpix 950, 990 and 995 have smallest aperture (resp., fastest shutter speed) f11.4, f11 and f10.3 (resp., 1/750, 1/1000 and 1/2000). Occasionally, it is possible that a correct exposure cannot be achieved even with the smallest aperture and fastest shutter speed. In such cases, ND filters become useful, because they can reduce the intensity of the light so that a photo can be taken within the limit of your camera. This is actually a common situation when film cameras and high speed films are used. Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

ND8Filter

I’ve used them in the past many times with my main camera, my Sony A7RIV when venturing out taking seascape images such as this one here at Trevose Head in Cornwall.

Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

Nd4 filtervs nd3filter

Based on this understanding, ND filters help us in at least three situations: (1) reduce the intensity of light; (2) use slower shutter speed; and (3) use larger aperture. We shall discuss each of these situation briefly below. Reducing the Intensity of Light Nikon Coolpix 950, 990 and 995 have smallest aperture (resp., fastest shutter speed) f11.4, f11 and f10.3 (resp., 1/750, 1/1000 and 1/2000). Occasionally, it is possible that a correct exposure cannot be achieved even with the smallest aperture and fastest shutter speed. In such cases, ND filters become useful, because they can reduce the intensity of the light so that a photo can be taken within the limit of your camera. This is actually a common situation when film cameras and high speed films are used. Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

You see first of all when using the iPhone along with one of the Pro Camera Apps available like ReeFlex, Moment, CameraPixels and so on, if you set them to shoot at 48MP in Apple ProRaw and then adjust the exposure using the Shutter Speed or ISO, the file instantly drops to 12MP.

Density 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 Reduction by f-stops 1/3 2/3 1 1 1/3 1 2/3 2 2 1/3 2 2/3 3 3 1/3 6 2/3 10 13 1/3 For example, Tiffen and B+W have 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 ND filters for reducing one, two and three stops of light. Hoya, on the other hand, uses 2×, 4× and 8× to indicate reducing 1 (i.e. 2=21), 2 (i.e., 4=22), and 3 (i.e., 8=23) stops. The two ND filters come with Nikon's Coolpack are of ND4 and ND8 type, which means they reduce two and three stops, respectively. All ND filters are gray in color. The deeper the color, the stronger the effect (i.e., reducing more light). The following shows Nikon's ND4 (font) and ND8 (rear) filters. From the shadows, it is clear that a ND8 blocks more light than a ND4 does. Based on this understanding, ND filters help us in at least three situations: (1) reduce the intensity of light; (2) use slower shutter speed; and (3) use larger aperture. We shall discuss each of these situation briefly below. Reducing the Intensity of Light Nikon Coolpix 950, 990 and 995 have smallest aperture (resp., fastest shutter speed) f11.4, f11 and f10.3 (resp., 1/750, 1/1000 and 1/2000). Occasionally, it is possible that a correct exposure cannot be achieved even with the smallest aperture and fastest shutter speed. In such cases, ND filters become useful, because they can reduce the intensity of the light so that a photo can be taken within the limit of your camera. This is actually a common situation when film cameras and high speed films are used. Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

Would it be possible to use the Neutral Density Filters with one of the Pro Camera Apps that are available so that I could use them to shoot at 48MP in Apple ProRaw AND slow the shutter down … basically capture a long exposure the traditional way? I mean why else would there be Neutral Density filters available for the iPhone?

ND4 filteruse

Just to add though … the slowest shutter speed you can set is 1/1 sec so for anything longer than that it calls for one of the long exposure apps that does the computational blending thing.

ND4 filterhow many stops

Nd4 filtervs nd3

If you want the scene darker or brighter then you could just use the EV slider and that would remain in Apple ProRaw at 48MP, but you can’t take the shutter speed slower than 1/15sec and remain in 48MP. Period!

Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

ND2filter

The app works incredibly well and allows the user to capture exposures from ½ second all the way to Bulb Mode, and using it I’ve taken what I consider my best seascape images to date …

With the rise in popularity of mobile photography, a new industry has developed producing add-ons such as grips to make using your iPhone more like using a regular camera along with bluetooth shutter buttons, lenses, filters and more.

Recall that the thick red line indicates a constant exposure value (i.e., EV). To achieve this "correct" exposure, there are many different aperture-shutter speed combinations. After adding a ND filter, the exposure value is reduced because there is less light passing through the lens. This is shown as a dashed line in the above figure. Thus, if we want to keep the original shutter speed (without using a ND filter), aperture has to be wider; or, if we want to keep the original aperture, shutter speed must be slower. Different ND filter manufacture many use a different way to indicate the amount of light a ND filter can reduce. There are two typical systems as shown below: Density 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 Reduction by f-stops 1/3 2/3 1 1 1/3 1 2/3 2 2 1/3 2 2/3 3 3 1/3 6 2/3 10 13 1/3 For example, Tiffen and B+W have 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 ND filters for reducing one, two and three stops of light. Hoya, on the other hand, uses 2×, 4× and 8× to indicate reducing 1 (i.e. 2=21), 2 (i.e., 4=22), and 3 (i.e., 8=23) stops. The two ND filters come with Nikon's Coolpack are of ND4 and ND8 type, which means they reduce two and three stops, respectively. All ND filters are gray in color. The deeper the color, the stronger the effect (i.e., reducing more light). The following shows Nikon's ND4 (font) and ND8 (rear) filters. From the shadows, it is clear that a ND8 blocks more light than a ND4 does. Based on this understanding, ND filters help us in at least three situations: (1) reduce the intensity of light; (2) use slower shutter speed; and (3) use larger aperture. We shall discuss each of these situation briefly below. Reducing the Intensity of Light Nikon Coolpix 950, 990 and 995 have smallest aperture (resp., fastest shutter speed) f11.4, f11 and f10.3 (resp., 1/750, 1/1000 and 1/2000). Occasionally, it is possible that a correct exposure cannot be achieved even with the smallest aperture and fastest shutter speed. In such cases, ND filters become useful, because they can reduce the intensity of the light so that a photo can be taken within the limit of your camera. This is actually a common situation when film cameras and high speed films are used. Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

If you leave the settings alone though and then just add on the Neutral Density filters, sure enough you can slow the shutter down … but don’t get too excited, because no matter how many Neutral Density filters you stack on top of each other, the shutter speed will NOT go slower than 1/15 sec

The only adjustment you can make and keep in 48MP is using the EV (Exposure Vlaue) slider which is basically the equivalent of dragging your finger on the screen to brighten or darken image as you would in the native Apple iPhone camera app, so no good for long exposure.

It was in the preapration for both of these sessions that I did A LOT of testing and research and in the process learned a lot more, or rather uncovered a lot more about the iPhone.

Nd4 filterprice

Different ND filter manufacture many use a different way to indicate the amount of light a ND filter can reduce. There are two typical systems as shown below: Density 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 Reduction by f-stops 1/3 2/3 1 1 1/3 1 2/3 2 2 1/3 2 2/3 3 3 1/3 6 2/3 10 13 1/3 For example, Tiffen and B+W have 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 ND filters for reducing one, two and three stops of light. Hoya, on the other hand, uses 2×, 4× and 8× to indicate reducing 1 (i.e. 2=21), 2 (i.e., 4=22), and 3 (i.e., 8=23) stops. The two ND filters come with Nikon's Coolpack are of ND4 and ND8 type, which means they reduce two and three stops, respectively. All ND filters are gray in color. The deeper the color, the stronger the effect (i.e., reducing more light). The following shows Nikon's ND4 (font) and ND8 (rear) filters. From the shadows, it is clear that a ND8 blocks more light than a ND4 does. Based on this understanding, ND filters help us in at least three situations: (1) reduce the intensity of light; (2) use slower shutter speed; and (3) use larger aperture. We shall discuss each of these situation briefly below. Reducing the Intensity of Light Nikon Coolpix 950, 990 and 995 have smallest aperture (resp., fastest shutter speed) f11.4, f11 and f10.3 (resp., 1/750, 1/1000 and 1/2000). Occasionally, it is possible that a correct exposure cannot be achieved even with the smallest aperture and fastest shutter speed. In such cases, ND filters become useful, because they can reduce the intensity of the light so that a photo can be taken within the limit of your camera. This is actually a common situation when film cameras and high speed films are used. Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

First, let's grasp the concept of neutral density filters. These accessories are essentially pieces of glass that reduce the amount of light entering the camera lens without affecting the color or hue of the image. They are commonly used in photography to achieve effects such as blurring motion in bright conditions or using wide apertures in daylight.

Reducing the Intensity of Light Nikon Coolpix 950, 990 and 995 have smallest aperture (resp., fastest shutter speed) f11.4, f11 and f10.3 (resp., 1/750, 1/1000 and 1/2000). Occasionally, it is possible that a correct exposure cannot be achieved even with the smallest aperture and fastest shutter speed. In such cases, ND filters become useful, because they can reduce the intensity of the light so that a photo can be taken within the limit of your camera. This is actually a common situation when film cameras and high speed films are used. Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

Over the past year or so I’ve been capturing seascapes more and more with my iPhone thanks to apps like ReeXpose that make all of this possible by instead of the need for Neutral Density Filter, computatiopnally blending a series of images together to create the long exposure effect … and doing so incredibly quickly.

Accepting that if I use manual controls the file will drop to 12MP, what if I use the Neutral Density Filters to get a correct exposure with a shutter speed of ½ second or the maximum of 1 second?

However, despite being 12MP and me being VERY happy with the results I wish there was a way to produce 48MP long exposure files from my iPhone using these kind of apps but that’s just not possible at the moment.

Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image

So looking at this, with the way the current iOS works, what is the point of Neutral Density FIlters for Photography with the iPhone?

That said though, because of how Apple ProRaw works, there may well be times you wouldn’t want to use it anyway because of the processing it applies to the files i.e. Noise Reduction and Smart HDR.

I’ll cover lenses in future posts and videos but for now I just wanted to concentrate on filters … in particular ND (Neutral Density) filters.

The main purpose of using neutral density (i.e., ND) filters is to reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens. As a result, if a shutter speed is kept the same, after adding a neutral density filter, a larger aperture must be used to obtain the same exposure. Similarly, if an aperture is kept the same, after adding a neutral density filter, a slower shutter speed must be used to obtain the same exposure. This can be seen in the following diagram. Note that this diagram was discussed in the Program Mode (950, 990 and 995). Recall that the thick red line indicates a constant exposure value (i.e., EV). To achieve this "correct" exposure, there are many different aperture-shutter speed combinations. After adding a ND filter, the exposure value is reduced because there is less light passing through the lens. This is shown as a dashed line in the above figure. Thus, if we want to keep the original shutter speed (without using a ND filter), aperture has to be wider; or, if we want to keep the original aperture, shutter speed must be slower. Different ND filter manufacture many use a different way to indicate the amount of light a ND filter can reduce. There are two typical systems as shown below: Density 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 Reduction by f-stops 1/3 2/3 1 1 1/3 1 2/3 2 2 1/3 2 2/3 3 3 1/3 6 2/3 10 13 1/3 For example, Tiffen and B+W have 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 ND filters for reducing one, two and three stops of light. Hoya, on the other hand, uses 2×, 4× and 8× to indicate reducing 1 (i.e. 2=21), 2 (i.e., 4=22), and 3 (i.e., 8=23) stops. The two ND filters come with Nikon's Coolpack are of ND4 and ND8 type, which means they reduce two and three stops, respectively. All ND filters are gray in color. The deeper the color, the stronger the effect (i.e., reducing more light). The following shows Nikon's ND4 (font) and ND8 (rear) filters. From the shadows, it is clear that a ND8 blocks more light than a ND4 does. Based on this understanding, ND filters help us in at least three situations: (1) reduce the intensity of light; (2) use slower shutter speed; and (3) use larger aperture. We shall discuss each of these situation briefly below. Reducing the Intensity of Light Nikon Coolpix 950, 990 and 995 have smallest aperture (resp., fastest shutter speed) f11.4, f11 and f10.3 (resp., 1/750, 1/1000 and 1/2000). Occasionally, it is possible that a correct exposure cannot be achieved even with the smallest aperture and fastest shutter speed. In such cases, ND filters become useful, because they can reduce the intensity of the light so that a photo can be taken within the limit of your camera. This is actually a common situation when film cameras and high speed films are used. Using Slower Shutter Speed Reducing the intensity of light means we can either use a slower shutter speed or a larger aperture. A slower shutter speed can cause moving objects blurred (i.e., motion blur) which creates a sense of motion. The following images were taken using the Aperture-Priority Mode (950, 990 and 995). The aperture was set to F2.8, the largest possible aperture, so that shutter speed can be reduced properly. The left image below was taken without a ND filter, and, as you can see, the truck (running about 40 miles) is frozen. Adding a ND4 filter to reduce 2 stops (i.e., slowing the shutter speed to a quarter of that used for the left image), the vehicle shows motion blur (middle image below). Motion blur becomes even more significant if ND8 is used instead of ND4 (right image below) which reduces the shutter speed to 1/8 of that used for the left image. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image Note that a number of ND filters can be stacked up to further reduce the intensity of light. The following image was taken by using both the ND4 and ND8 filters. This reduces the intensity of light to 1/32 (i.e., 5=2+3 stops) of the original. Now motion blur is so obvious even in a small image. With both ND4 and ND8 filters Click on the icon to see a larger image Using Larger Aperture Since ND filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens tube, they can be used to open up the aperture while keep the shutter speed the same. Keep in mind that a larger aperture produces a shallower Depth of Field (950, 990 and 995). The following images were all taken with a shutter speed of 1/30 second. The left one did not use a ND filter and the aperture used was F10.7. As you can see, the background is only blurred a little, and the subject seems part of the background. Adding a ND4 filter reduces the aperture to F5.4. The background is further blurred and the subject is isolated from the background. Using the ND8 filter reduces the aperture to F3.9. Now the subject is well isolated from the background! Moreover, it shows a sense of distance. While we can stack both ND4 and ND8 filters together, since the aperture of your camera is not large enough, doing so will produce underexposure images. Without ND With ND4 filter With ND8 filter Click on the icon to see a larger image