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I cut slots in the main table every three inches or so, and match them with slots in the breadboard. I make the breadboard slots wider to allow for movement, except for the center two, which are normal size.

Whenever I ask myself a question like this, that little voice in the back of my head is always the one I listen to -- "Do it right, and make a new top."

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I have the small machine too and use the 10 mm x 50 mm size dominoes. I've done maybe a dozen tables this way with no problems to date.

Thanks All! I think my original plan of large floating tenons has been validated so I'll stick with it; along with a T&G to ensure alignment and a clean look. The voice in my head says the largest domino in the systainer does not feel right.

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I recently stretched a “floating” desk top in solid white oak using #8 domino cutter and the domino connector system. Worked pretty flawlessly. Kinda large investment though. I am very happy to have the connector set.

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Have any of you tried a short b-board “haunch” backed up with floating tenons glued ino the ends of the long boards ala’ mega-dominoes?  In my mind I have a 1/2″ full width haunch with a 4″ floater fully glued in the middle and two 4″ floaters on each side of center, glued into the ends but pinned to the breadboard.  The floaters would go 2″ either way with 4″ wide b-boards. For a 47″ total

I guess you could add 3 inches to each end using Domino's. I wouldn't use the small one though, as they aren't very long. The way people tend to lean on table ends with both elbows, though, really gives me pause.

Hi all,  I have been asked to add length to a 5/4, 3-board maple table 30″x 40″ as it sits now.  Target is 46-48″.  I’m thinking breadboards, but anything I cut into tenons has to be added to the width of the breadboards, a cycle I think is a loser.

Adding the large tenons is the same to me as if I milled stock away to make them. I'll epoxy them in to keep the moisture out. Wish me luck!

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Pants; Sadly I cannot decline.. my build, my table... change of mind on size from the boss (tabletop stock already rough milled too short). The haunch I mentioned was essentially a stopped T&G to clean up the look on the end. Had not thought of screws, was gonna draw pin it but that could clean up the top surface, thanks.

All the slots on the table top get glue, but only the center two on the breadboard. The other slots on the breadboard are dry, so the wood can move.

You could, I guess, you can also decline. This is an existing table and some risk involved that falls on you if it doesn't work out. But.. I would option for the 46 " version since that is presented as an option. I don't see that your "domino" version is significantly different functionality than if the tenons were part of the boards . If it were my project I would feel better if there was a tongue and groove the whole length even if it was a small one, 5/16" 3/8". Mortise the table and the end pieces then cut ( rout) a tongue onto the end of the table and a matching groove into the end boards. I would think that the tenons could be thicker than the t&g if you wish. I would glue the center tenon both ends and the others I would glue into the table side only . I would make the tenon on the sides slightly narrower than the mortise on the breadboard end I wouldnt think that you would need as much as 1/4" expansion each side. That is, full size and glued on the table and cut narrower and unglued for the breadboard. I would then set a screw from the bottom through a slotted hole in the tenon to keep things in place. If this is for pay be sure to stress to the client that this is a PIA so that you can charge accordingly!

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+1 on the dominoes just the same as stevieray said, made many that way, I would add make mortises as deep as possible just to make the alignment as close as possible and I usually glue the Center dominoes as well as about 6” of the edge of the breadboard to the end of the tabletop. I usually use 12mm for this but any will work just use more if they are skinny