A stop is an arbitrary amount of light. If you have a shutter speed that’s twice as long as one before. You’re letting in twice the amount of light that is one stop. ND filters are rated in the amount of light that they reduce coming into the lens. so if we say this is an ND filter with the one-stop intensity that means it would let in half the amount of light as it did before and this is how ND filters are rated. So they have different intensities from 1-9 or 10,000?

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For example, the long exposure shots like if you’re shooting a river or a stream or waterfall and you want to get that misty look. An ND filter is a spectacular way to go. However, it might be confusing in terms of the grade of ND filter you have. You have to know how dark it is going to get and the problem is these nomenclatures are used interchangeably so let’s just dive into the chart.

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When you go to purchase an ND filter often it is going to have an nd number that will say something like nd2, nd4, nd8, nd16.

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I’ll be honest Michael, I don’t have time to do the math for you. The idea was to create a resource for people to calculate this themselves. All the equations you need are right here on the page. Just plug your numbers in 🙂

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Video shooting with wide aperture lenses outside is another application if you want to shoot in a 2.8 or even wider. you are doing the day when it's very bright. way too much light coming into the camera kind of locked into out shutter speed. You cannot turn the ISO down further and that is a problem you can't solve without an ND filter. many high-end video cameras have ND filters built into them.

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Thanx for the math. Can the view angle and/ or field of view for fish-eye lenses both rectilinear and circular image types also be calculated? It is my understanding the formulas are more complicated. I am interested because I have two fisheye Zuiko lenses from OM-2 & 4 cameras which I would like to use with adapter on Panasonic G 85 or Canon M 50. Can you help? TIA

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Field of View. How many feet both horizontally and vertically in FOV using a 2000mm lens at 800 yards? I am trying to decide if I want to spend the money on a Nikon that comes with that lens.

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Neutral density meaningnd filter

As well as calculating the angle of view, we can also use the same trigonometry to calculate the field of view as a linear measurement, as long as you know the distance to your subject, or, if you know the size of your subject and the focal length you are going to use, it could tell you how far away from it you need to be to get it to fill the frame. The units of measurement will be constant in the equation, so if you use metres as your distance to subject, the linear field of view will also be in metres.

1 stop, 2 stops, 3 stops, etc. Sometimes these are referred to as EV, for exposure value. These are probably the most convenient measurement because they tell you how many stops they'll adjust your exposure by.

I would check that your camera is in full output. If you use are using a smaller output resolution, your FoV will be cropped. The frame size input will be smaller.

I need to shoot down on a square card table, 35 inches on each side (including margins) at a distance of about 1 meter. I am using a Panasonic G6 with the 14-42mm kit lens set at 14mm. Online calculators using the formula FOV (rectilinear) = 2 * arctan (frame size/(focal length * 2) indicate that the 14mm focal length should cover 35.14 inches in the vertical dimension at a distance of 41 inches. When I actually tried it, I had to be at least 11 feet back from the table. What gives?

The ND filter is a filter that, placed before the lens reduces the amount of light reaching the camera's sensor. It acts like a pair of sunglasses to your lens.

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One question you probably have is why and in what situations would you want to reduce the amount of light coming into your camera sensor.

So, ND500 sounds like a lot, but it'd be the same as stacking an ND16 and an ND32 (16 x 32 = 512; manufacturers round it to 500).

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Dan, I’m a newbie to landscapes, and I’m not a professional. So, here’s a little feedback. Please understand that I don’t necessarily have the right language to ask the right questions. What I was really looking for is a way to know what general lens size to use to get a “how large a field of view. The math is helpful, but really not intuitive, especially if your last experience with higher math was 30+ years ago. What was a very useful visual for demonstrating angle of view is the first illustration you had, namely, the “topdown” view of the camera with cones coming forward in different colors. A visual chart or series of charts showing an object at say 200 yards, with the focal point in the center, and a second overlay on top of that showing how much distance to the front & back of the focal point remains in focus relative to the aperture would be ideal. I realize you are probably laughing out loud at this, & don’t have anywhere near enough time for a project of that size, & probably even less inclination to actually do it, but it would be enormously helpful, and a lot more visually intuitive. Thanks so much.

As I continue to build out the photographic knowledge base on the site with articles like Understanding Neutral Density Filter Names and Numbers, and Understanding Aperture, I thought I’d write a quick post about how to calculate field of view for a photographic lens. Lenses are usually described by their focal length, expressed in mm, but how does this translate to field of view?

your FOV table is wrong. i think you took 36mm width instead of the diagonal. =2*ARCTAN(SQRT(24^2+36^2)/(2*”focallength”))*(180/PI())

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Since the equation for field of view contains the sensor width, which determines the crop factor of a sensor, this is another way to see the effect that the crop factor of a camera has on an image. The smaller the sensor, the larger the crop factor, and the smaller the field of view for a given focal length. Below I have included data for full frame field of view, as well as the three most common digital crop factors. If you want to learn more about crop factor, you can read my tutorial: How To Calculate a Camera’s Crop Factor.

So if you have an ND filter with strength or intensity of 2 all you need to do is turn it into a fraction by putting a 1 above it. So ND filter of 2 is going to let in half the amount of light. An ND filter of 4 is going to let in 1/4 amount of light and so on. So if it’s a 3 stops reduction it’s going to let in 1/8. if it’s a four-stop reduction so it’s an ND 16 it’s going to let in 1/16. if it’s an ND filter then reduce it by 5 stops that would be an nd 32 . and that’s going to let in a fraction of 1/32. and so on and so forth.

The larger the field of view, the wider the lens is and the more of a scene you are going to see with your camera. Telephoto and super telephoto lenses have very small fields of view, just a few degrees, so they aren’t able to see very much of the scene in front of them, although the compensating virtue is that what they do see, is much larger in the frame. A wide angle lens for landscape photography has a very small focal length, and therefore a large field of view that lets you record broad landscapes in a single shot.

As far as I can tell, it is correct. I just plugged some values into other online FOV calculators and the FOV calculator in the most popular photography iPhone app and all got the same answers that are in my table. 36mm is the width of a full frame sensor.

ND filters come in different strengths or darkness levels. For the photographer, the easiest way is to have ND filters that tell you how many stops of light they will darken your exposure. Most brands of ND filters label the ND filters with either a factor number or optical density number. But for the photographer, neither of them is referred to the number of stops by which the light is reduced.

Note: If your calculator is working in radians, you need the (180/π) part at the end. if your calculator is working in degrees, you do not need that bit! If you aren’t sure… it will become pretty obvious when you run the equation as results will be wildly wrong.

The equation with distortion is quite a bit more complicated, so even apps like PhotoPills haven't modelled it. It has 4 variable coefficients and an additional SIN function. Here is a calculator which extends to lenses with distortion: https://commonlands.com/pages/fov-calculator

If you read lens specifications (yes, I’m that kind of guy) on manufacturer’s websites, they’ll often quote the field of view (F.O.V) of a lens as well as the focal length. When they do this in photographic terms, they’re talking about horizontal field of view in degrees, and whilst any lens will also have both a vertical and a diagonal field of view, they are rarely talked about in relation to photographic lenses.

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2x, 4x, 8x, etc. Sometimes these are referred to as ND2, ND4, ND8, and so on. These refer to the amount by which the light is diminished. An ND2 filter halves the light, while an ND8 filter reduces it to one eighth.

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Again if you’re trying to go with a very very wide aperture on a sunny day well cameras have sync speed limits which means you cannot really use super-fast shutter speed and so one of the best ways to manage that is to lower the amount of light coming in-camera through an ND filter.

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Note that this equation HSize/2=f*Tan(FoV/2) is inaccurate if your DSLR lens has >1% distortion. So, it shouldn’t be used for lenses like the Canon 11mm-22mm and most <15mm EFL 35mm-format type lenses. The G6 14mm has ~5% distortion.

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Thanks for the suggestion Kay. I like the idea, but there are many phone apps out there that offer this already, and they do a better job than I could ever do. I would suggest buying the app called “PhotoPills”, it has angle of view and depth of field calculators in it and it’s a great app for many things related to photography.

Nikon specs their 10-24mm DX lens as having AoV of 109 degrees at 10 mm and 61 degrees at 24 mm when used on a DX camera. This does not agree with your table above. However, using their two numbers, you can easily calculate the sensor size from your formula–it is 28.4 mm. This is exactly the diagonal of the cropped sensor size of 23.5 x 15.7 mm.. Thus, Nikon uses the diagonal for quoting their specs, not the width of the sensor.

It must be noted here that Canon has actually used difference sensor sizes for their APS-C cameras over the years. Since the sensor dimension does affect the field of view, this should be taken into account in order to be 100% accurate. For the data table below I have chosen to use the sensor width of 22.5mm because this is the one that Canon seem to have stuck with for their own calculations, and it is also the dimension that gives exactly a 1.6x crop factor. Whilst they do have 22.3mm and 22.4mm sensor widths on the market as well, this minuscule difference would not actually make any noticeable difference to your images, but if you ran your own calculations for your own camera and found they did not match my numbers, this will be the cause of the difference. It was the source of some head scratching for me when I was figuring all this out myself!

I am not at all sure which is the best way to quote, but it is important to know how the quoted numbers are defined. Thanks for your very useful discussion.

If you want to use the field of view equation on this page to calculate the field of view for a sensor size other than the four that have been provided, you’ll need to refer to use this list of common sensor sizes and their crop factor.

The neutral density (ND) filter is one of the basic gears that should be included in every landscape photographer’s camera backpack. Many beginners may don’t know how, where, and when to use them. In this article, we will introduce some basic knowledge about it.