The field of view is the size of the imaginary image (round picture) that you see when you look through an optical device. Simply put, it is part of the space observed in the telescope sight or binoculars.

About the diameter of the lenses and the twilight number, we understand from a high school physics course more or less. Then the field of vision often confuses the user.

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Today with the prevalence of smartphones, it is convenient to use an app to calculate the actual angle of view and distance to subject, and also to visualize the sensor sizes, compute crop factors and equivalent focal lengths, etc. There is a good iOS app called "Angle of View" that lets you see the three angles of view that you would get from a given focal length of lens on a given sensor size—and what that is equivalent to on four other sensor sizes. It also draws the five sensor sizes to scale, tells you the distance across your shot at a given distance-to-subject, and makes adjustments based on the aspect ratio you're shooting at (like if you're using square mode on your camera). Here is a web link to the developer's page.

Moreover, the greater the multiplicity, the smaller the field of view, and the harder it becomes to hold a binocular or sight still to maintain a stable image. When choosing a binocular or reticle for prolonged handheld observation, keep in mind that the multiplicity should not exceed 10x. Test several devices with different magnification to see the difference. Try to see small details in the image; often you may see more details in the scope with smaller magnification because of the more stable position of the image.

When choosing a new sight or binoculars, it is easy for a person to get confused and not understand the whole technical component of an optical device. If you want to understand better and compare your choice with analogs - not only by size, weight and price, it is better to study the device characteristics.

You can just look at the images I've made below, but if you're a hands-on learner like I am, it's really useful to actually get out some real paper, colored pencils, and a ruler, and follow along in the physical world.

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The angle of view is closely related to the magnification of the reticle: the larger the magnification, the smaller the angle of view. This means that the larger the magnification, the smaller the angle of view. It is clear that a moving object will be harder to shoot with a telescope sight that has a smaller field of view. Therefore, when choosing the telescope sight on the field of view it is necessary to take into account the shooting distance and capabilities of the weapon, determining the most optimal ratio of magnification and angle of view.

The field of view is influenced by the diameter of the optical system lens and the distance from the shooter’s eye to the eyepiece. In any case, the larger the magnification of the sight, the smaller the field of view. The magnified scope allows you to observe a wide field of view at low magnification and easily find the target, then rotate the ring on the tube to enlarge the image and make an accurate aiming.

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Field of view human eye

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For a human eye, the angle of view happens to be about 95°, but since your eyes move around unconsciously and your brain fills in the details, it feels much wider than that.

With your straightedge, draw a line from the left edge of your sensor line through the 35mm aperture dot, and continue all the way through and on to the edge of the page. Then do the same thing from the right edge of the sensor line. This should produce a big X shape. Label both lines of the top cone of the X "35mm field of view".

Draw a line 23.6mm long — the width of the sensor in your D7000 (and many similar cameras) — in the center at the bottom of a blank piece of paper.

The lens formula is 1/f = 1/Do + 1/Di where f is the focal length of the lens, Do is the distance from the object to the lens and Di is the distance of the ...

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Another parameter is the relief of the eyes. Often, if the removal of the exit pupil is too small, it is possible to see its darkening at the edge of the field of vision. Technically, vignetting is the reduction in brightness or saturation of the image at its periphery compared to the center. To put it crudely, you have to look from the optimum distance. If the object is too close or too far away, the optics may lose part of the image along the edges, darkening it.

Now measure from your sensor along the center line. Put a dot at 50mm. Label this "50mm lens". (And of course this represents the pinhole aperture of an idealized 50mm lens.)

A concave lens is the opposite, being thicker at the edge than the center and spreading out a beam of light. Microscopes use convex lenses in order to focus ...

In layman's terms, what is angle-of-view? Is it the same as focal length? If not, how is it different? How is it used? Why do I need to know about it?

Measure from your sensor along the center line you just drew. Put a dot at 35mm. Label this "35mm lens". This represents the pinhole aperture of an idealized 35mm lens.

In layman's terms (assuming a layman who knows some very basic geometry), imagine your nose as the point of a triangle. The left side of the triangle is the left edge of your peripheral vision, and the right side is the right edge. The horizontal angle of view is simply the angle between those edges, and the vertical angle of view is the same thing for up and down.

Humanity isn't sitting still at all. We want to go faster, to fly higher, to know more about the world and to see further! The last aspiration for four hundred years is a variety of optical devices. There are telescopes, spyglasses, and perhaps the most charismatic and popular of the optics are binoculars and scopes.

The terms field of view and angle of view are basically interchangeable — angle of view is one way of measuring the field of view. (One could also say something like "10 meters at 20 meters away"... this describes different aspects of the same geometry, and with basic trig one can figure out one thing from the other.)

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Still, if you can back up 2 feet from the 10 foot subject, increasing the subject to sensor distance to 12 feet, the exact same field of view is available with the 24mm as at 10 feet with the 20mm. At 20 feet, you'd have to back up 4 feet. So, in the situations you shoot, are those one or two steps backwards something you can take (keeping in mind that changing the distance to your subject changes perspective as well)?

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This neatly (I hope) answers the question of the relationship between focal length and angle of view / field of view, and also explains the effect of different sensor sizes — and, as a bonus, shows how cropping is interchangeable with zooming (if you don't mind using less of your sensor).

The initial suggestion for "crop factor" was to use a percentage equivalent to the inverse of the focal length multiplier (e.g. 1/1.6, for APS-C, 62.5% of the pre-crop image gets cropped out), since cropping is a reduction and should therefore be expressed as a percentage less than 100%. However because the point of the figure is to make math easy to do in your head, and it's easier to multiply by 1.6 than it is to divide by 0.625, the industry kept using the focal length multiplier, and just renamed it "crop factor."

To convert the angular field of view into a linear one you just need to multiply the specified angle by 52.5. Why? One angle equals 52.5 feet. It's simple!

Angle of view is what actually matters in practice, lens focal length is just more convenient to use as an equivalent value when frame size is fixed and well-known (like the standard 35mm frame). As a logical consequence, these days sensor size is usually mentioned together with lens focal length in order to get understanding of the angle of view used.

Well, we hope our article was useful for you. And maybe the previously unclear parameters of optics have now become clear to you. More information here:Laser Range Finding Rifle ScopesRifle Scope Glossary of TermsHow to Choose Best Scope Covers & CapsIn our store

You read the previous paragraph and realized you didn't understand anything? Or did you partially understand it? Don't get upset! We'll make it easier for you now.

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In the case of magnified sights, it is most often indicated at a distance of 100 meters or 100 yards. For example, 42.5 meters by 100 meters or 127.5 inches by 100 yards may be indicated. As an alternative value, the field of view may be expressed in degrees. For example, 6.6.

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Angle of view is essentially what its name says - the subset of space you can see, and it depends BOTH on focal length and frame size used. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angle_of_view

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Now, you can directly see that a shorter focal length produces a wider field of view. Anything that's within those lines will be in your picture, and everything outside will be out of frame. Note that the lens may project a much wider cone of light that doesn't all fall on the sensor — the lines you drew ignore that, since light that isn't recorded doesn't really matter.

Focal-length determines the angle-of-view seen through a lens for a given sensor-size. With a full-frame sensor a lens gives the same angle-of-view as it would on a 35mm film camera. With a smaller sensor, the angle-of-view becomes smaller. The crop-factor, also called FLM, is the ratio representing the difference in equivalent focal-lengths. So a 150mm on a full-frame DSLR such as the Nikon D700 gives the same angle-of-view as a 100mm on a D7000 since its FLM is 1.5X.

As the text you've quoted says, "Focal-length determines the angle-of-view seen through a lens for a given sensor-size." This is also basic trig, and you can actually plot it out on a piece of paper and measure for yourself. Obviously with a lens this is a three-dimensional problem, but we can just consider the horizontal dimension and reduce it to two. (Imagine this as a top-down cut-away view of the world.)

The field of view (FOV) is a maximum linear distance horizontally, which can be seen through the reticle at a distance of 100 m (for American sights the FOV value is often specified in feet at a distance of 100 yards). For example, the field of view of a variable magnification reticle at three-fold magnification (3x) is usually slightly more than 10.5 m at 100 m (30 ft 100 yards), and at nine-fold magnification (9x) it is about 4.7 m by 100 m (14 ft 100 yards). An increase in lens size does not affect this value in any way.

As the correct answer post mentions, the AoV is relative to the size of the capture area at the camera's back. 35mm film was the standard for 50 years or so, and as a result, people associate certain angles with the focal length used to achieve them on 35mm film cameras. Initially, consumer digital interchangeable lens cameras (like DSLRs) used smaller formats of sensor, and people used a "focal length multiplier" to calculate the "equivalent 35mm format focal length". For example, so-called "APS-C" format sensors from Canon, for example, the focal length multiplier was 1.6.

The end result for me is I'm still undecided. But at least I quantified my dilemma. That's why angle and field of view matter. (Of course, a wide angle zoom would arguably solve my dilemma; but to keep equivalent speed, the price of poker goes up by more than $1,400.00 and 1.5 lbs, and avoiding THAT, is why I went back to primes in the first place.)

From the center of that line, draw a light perpendicular line out from that center dot out towards the middle of the page, so you have an inverted T shape. (This is for convenience. Think of it as "the line towards what you're pointing the camera at".)

Notice that the 35mm on your D7000 gives roughly the field of view of the 50mm on FX — this is why people talk about "equivalent" lenses.

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So, for a 50mm lens on a 35mm sized sensor (or film), you'd have a field of view of 46° on the diagonal. As the focal length doubles, the field of view halves, so a 100mm lens on a 35mm camera has a field of view of 24° on the diagonal.

Angle of view is actually three different angles (diagonal, horizontal/landscape, and vertical/portrait), each of which is the measure of the angle at the top of an equilateral triangle measured from the focal point of the lens (where all the light rays cross) and spanning from the farthest points (corner-to-corner, left-to-right, or top-to-bottom) across a plane that is parallel with the plane of the focal plane. Note that the focal plane is not always parallel with the plane of the camera's back (film/sensor), nor is it always flat: tilt-shift lenses move the focal plane out of parallel with the back, so the angle of view does not necessarily tell you what will be in focus, and some lenses have blurry corners because of how the focal plane is mapped onto a bowl-shaped (or even more complexly-shaped) manifold. As a result of this, typical AoV calculations are best regarded as a close approximation, especially with wide-angle lenses.

You can see that the lines for APS-C 35mm and "Full-Frame" 50mm aren't right on top of each other, as one might expect for an "equivalent". That's because this breaks down a bit at macro distance. If you move back a few millimeters, it'll line up correctly (but change perspective ever so slightly). The lines are roughly parallel, though, so those few millimeters are still just a few millimeters across the room, where they're inconsequential. If you draw this on a really big piece of paper instead of this little on-screen one, that'll become clear. (And of course, they're not exactly parallel, because the lenses don't quite match the crop factor — 32.7777...mm and 50mm would be more exact. Ah, the real world, always getting in the way of explaining things simply. Other real-world factors apply as well; for example, focal length changes with focus distance, and also the focal length written on a lens is often rounded to a nice-looking number.)

On the DPReview.com forums, in the early 2000s, a debate raged about this because the focal length also affects depth of field properties, and people therefore thought that because the focal length multiplier changed the focal length, it would change other properties like depth of field, not just the angle of view. However, the sensor size being smaller only makes the angle smaller, but does not affect the depth of field or other properties. Therefore one person suggested that, instead of using the phrase "focal length multiplier," that instead, the phrase "crop factor" be used, so people would understand that the image is the same, just with a smaller angle of view, as if a photograph had been cropped.

In this article, we will try to tell you as much as possible about one of the most important parameters of optical devices. It is a field of view.

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The last thing asked in the query was why should we care about this. Let me answer that with an example. I've been trying to decide if getting a 20mm lens for my 1.5 crop factor camera would make sense in light of the fact I've already got a 24mm. Here are the numbers (from an on line calculator). On the Dx body the 24 gives you 53.1 horizontal, 36.9 vertical, and 63 degrees diagonal. The 20 provides 61.9, 43.6, and 71.6, respectively. But when you look at what's in the frame of a picture those numbers add up. At 10 feet from the sensor, the 24 encompasses an area of 10 feet by 6.7 feet or 67 square feet. The 20mm frames 96 square feet (12x8) at that same distance. At 20 feet the difference in what's within the frame is 118 square feet (266 v 384). The 20mm lens thus encompasses 44.4 % more ground within its frame at 20 feet than the 24mm.

Resolution Calculator. Image Width. in. Image Height. in. DPI. dpi. Invert Calculation. Image Width. 0 px. Image Height.

Experiment 2: Increase the size of the sensor line to 36mm, as in Nikon's "FX" full-frame cameras. Keep the line centered on the same dot, of course. Use your same lens dots but draw new X lines to the larger left and right edge of the sensor. It's immediately apparent that including this extra part of the light cone makes the recorded field of view of the same focal length much wider.

If you use a smaller sensor, you're effectively cropping the image down, so whilst the lens may produce an image good enough for a 35mm frame, a smaller sensor will ignore the parts that fall off the edge. This crop factor divides the angle of view, so that 50mm lens would have a field of view of about 31° on the diagonal if you were using an APS-C sized sensor. Alternately, and how most people think about it is the equivalent focal length, had you been using 35mm, which would be case of multiplying the real focal length by your crop factor, so that 50mm lens on a D7000 is equivalent to a 75mm lens on a 35mm camera.

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And you're right. FOV of binoculars is measured in feet at a distance of 1,000 yards. The sights measure the FOV in feet per 100 yards. If the characteristics of the binoculars tell you that the field of view of the device is 340 feet by 1,000 yards, it means that you will see the picture of 340 feet (from left to right), at the distance of 1,000 yards from you.

There are so-called "wide-angle" sights, which have a larger field of view by 20-40° in comparison with conventional sights.