Diffuse lightsource

Different photographers appreciate different kinds of diffuse light; some prefer sharper shadows and higher-contrast light, while others prefer a minimum of shadows and lower-contrast light. Personally I’m among the second kind.

So when you just have the one number, for example, an 85, it's got one fixed focal length. If you want to get closer or further back, you'd go and have to move your feet! It's fixed at that focal lens.

Now if I look again on my Zoom Lens (the image on the right) the 16 to 35mm, you can see it's got 1 and then it's got 2.8. So the maximum aperture of this lens is F2.8.

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So I do want you to bear that in mind when people are talking about focal length of lenses. If you have a crop frame camera, remember to do that multiplication by 1.5 or 1.6, and that will show you how how that particular lens focal length is going to perform on your camera.

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Now this number refers to the focal length, which is simply how much off the scene you are going to be able to see when you look through the viewfinder. A larger number will give you a telephoto view, which simply means that when you look through the view finder, everything will seem closer to you than it would the naked eye.

DIYlightdiffuser material

On the other hand, if you have a number that is LESS than 50mm, so 35mm, 24mm or 16mm, then that is going to give you a view that is wider than the naked eye.

You can make your diffuser out of any material with a thickness of 0.5 to 1 cm. It just needs to be white and translucent. My diffuser is made from the foam filling of a tablet case: I cut a hole out of it for the lens hood and along the sides of the hole I placed a rubber band, to catch it onto the lens. You’ll need to practice a bit at first to keep your diffuser from scaring away the bug you’re photographing, but over time you’ll find that despite the very amateur look, there’s no better diffuser.

By locating the diffuser on the lens, you avoid the problems I mentioned. You get a major advantage in that you can adjust the angle of diffusion, and through that the shadow intensity as well. The perfect angle of diffusion is 45°; that gives you enough diffusion and ideal shadow softness. To minimize the shadows, tilt the diffuser so it’s almost parallel with the lens. For sharper shadows, increase the angle of diffusion to 90°.

So that’s focal length explained - but how can we tell just by looking at the focal length number how that lens is going to perform on our camera?

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Now on some lenses you will actually see that you have two aperture numbers, and what that means is that you have a variable aperture lens. You'll normally find that on your zoom lenses.

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But if you are new to photography, the chances are you're NOT shooting with a full frame camera. You probably have a crop frame camera and that gives a world of difference on to how your lenses are actually going to perform!

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Now the aperture number is normally just written along the side or on the rim of your lens, and you'll see that it's got 1: 1.8 on lens below on the left, meaning that it has a maximum aperture of F1.8.

This diffuser naturally also has the advantage that you can use it with both internal and external flashes. But if you want a handy diffuser made for internal flashes directly, use a white film can and cut a hole for the internal flash into that. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by the results, and the purchase price is zero.

So how do you avoid these problems? There’s a variety of ways to improve the diffuser you’ve bought and to spread out the light more and make the shadows softer. You can add another layer: tracing paper, white cloth, or even paper tissues. To tell the truth, the best choice is to throw out all the diffusers you’ve bought and make your own.

That’s it from me today, I hope that this answered your question about what all the numbers on a camera lens actually mean, and how you can use this information to see which lens is right for you!

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To get good light diffusion that makes your pictures look the way you want, you have to take into account both of the factors mentioned above: the need for the diffuser to be far enough from the flash source, and the need for the light to be diffused behind the lens, not in front of it. So where should you put your diffuser? Don’t place the diffuser on the flash; instead, put it on the end of your lens, and ideally on the start of your lens hood, so that it’s pointed in front of the lens, as you can see in the picture below.

Based on my experience, I can’t recommend even one of these diffusers. The main reason why is that they diffuse the light from a spot too close to the flash, and so they diffuse and soften the light too weakly. Another problem is the diffusion of the light before the lens. You can end up with your picture having an unwanted shadow from the lens or the lens hood.

So if you've been looking at lenses online, or maybe you already have your lens and you just don't understand what all these numbers actually mean, stick around. as by the end of this post, you'll know exactly what the numbers mean and you'll know how your lens is going to perform!

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So that was just with one focal length. But you may have a zoom Lens, in which case you're going to have two different numbers separated to by a dash.

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Psssst! Don’t forget to grab your Which Lens Kickstarter guide underneath the video - it will take the video to a whole new level :-)

Macro photography is one of those genres where equipment really matters. Even in ordinary photography, it’s all about light, and in macro photography that goes double, especially when it comes to light diffusion.

That's because you have a different sensor size and it magnifies the scene. So you can take this exact same 85mm lens, but pop that on to a crop frame camera, then it's going to behave differently.

Diffusedlightphotography Examples

As you can see in the picture above, even after developing the RAW file, the results just aren’t right. Even though I used a basic diffuser, the light from the flash was sharp and “killed” the picture. The outcome of using the diffuser: light with too much contrast and not enough detail in the shadows. So here the plastic diffuser was no use.

However your Zoom Lens, because it has that two numbers, means you can move the zoom ring to zoom in and zoom out and you can go through that whole range of focal lengths.

What that simply means is if you zoom in, you are going to get a different maximum aperture than if you zoomed all the way out.

Another option is diffusers made of cloth and reflecting foil that generally direct all light into one white square or rectangle. In other words, small softboxes for external flashes. These are much better at diffusing light. But they’re still not quite right.

And if you're using a crop frame camera, tell me what the equivalent focal length is and let me know what your maximum aperture is - It's a great little exercise just to make sure that you understand everything we’ve spoken about today!

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Everyone who’s ever tried to shoot macro has asked themselves this question: Why aren’t my pictures as good as the ones out there that I admire? The answer is often simple. Often it’s just about a lack of the diffuse light that makes a photo special. Composition also plays an important role, but in this text we’ll concentrate just on diffuse light.

How to diffuse lightfor photography

If I took a 35mm lens and popped that onto a crop fame camera, it's going to look more “zoomed in” than it would on a full frame camera.

If you’ve been asking yourself that question then you are in the perfect place, as today we’re going to be talking about what all the numbers on your camera lens means, and how you can use this information to decide which lens might be best for you.

My idea of a great evening is spent under the stars or in a tent, taking pictures of the night sky before going to sleep. Then, photographing a majestic sunrise in the countryside the next morning. I am happiest when my photography takes me to Velká Javořina in the White Carpathian Mountains. I am also a passionate photographer of the fascinating, yet almost invisible world beneath our feet. When I’m not shooting landscapes, I’m busy exploring the forest, or my favorite wetland areas, taking photos of insects. Simply stated, I am a nature photographer, not just in my images, but also in my soul.

So here's what I'd like you to do now. Go and grab your lens (or have a look at the one online if you haven't got one yet) and in the comments below, let me know what the focal length is.

So for example, if you were using a 35mm lens on a crop frame camera, you're going to take 35 - that's the focal length of the lens - and then you're going to multiply that by 1.5 if you use Canon or 1.6 if you use Nikon.

Now here is an example of that for you. So here is an example of an image taken with a 35mm lens, and then one with an 85 mm lens on the same camera.

Now I've actually got an extra little freebie for you that I think you'll love and will totally help to put all of this into perspective of how each lens will perform and what it can be used for. It’s my FREE Which Lens Kickstarter guide, and in that you'll get loads of image examples using different focal lengths so you can see what each one brings to the table. Plus you'll get some suggestions on which best lenses or focal lens you can use for different types of shots! Totally free and totally worth it. Go here to grab your copy!

So how do you diffuse the light from your internal or external flash? One possibility is to buy a specialized diffuser that you mount onto your flash. If you buy one of these, you have to take into account that it’s a commercial product that’s made to sell, but maybe not to serve your needs. I personally own two of these commercial diffusers made for mounting onto an external flash.

A smaller number will means you will have a wide angle lens, which means when you look through the view finder, everything will seem further away.

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So if you forget about having a lens there for a moment and you're just looking at a scene, roughly speaking, if you put a 50mm lens onto your full frame camera, it is going to give you roughly the same field of view.Now it's not exact, but it's kind of close enough.

What you need to do is take the focal length of the lens, and then multiply that by a number. That number is either going to be 1.6 if you use Canon or 1.5 if you use Nikon.

So why use diffuse light in macro photography? In the end the answer is simple: So that your pictures look the way you’d like. Never forget that light is your foundation, and that it’s important to work with it, and above all to know how to work with it.

If you want to get an idea of how different focal lengths perform, then be sure to download my FREE which lens kickstarter guide - it has examples of images taken at different focal lenghts, along with a guide about what you might want to use each one for.

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So the photographer in the same position for both of these images. One was taken with a 35 and you can see, we can see more in the frame. For the one that was taken with the 85mm, you can see that everything seems more zoomed in, it's pulled closer to the frame.

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How to diffuse lightfrom LED

So let's take that 85mm and we're going to multiply that by 1.6 (let's assume that we have a Canon!) and that's going to give us an equivalent focal length of 136.

I’m not satisfied with either of them, because I can’t affect the light diffusion enough to get the results I want without having to interfere in the intensity or direction of the flash.

So any LARGER larger than 50 mm, so for example, 85mm, 135mm, 200mm, they are going to give you a more zoomed in look. The larger the number, the more zoomed in it's going to appear.