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I used it once yet but I love it. Looks very solid and reliable. https://cdn-yotpo-images- ...

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If you have an RA motor on your mount with settable slew rates, you cna use your camera to preform drift alignment in just a few minutes. Photographic drift alignment takes just over one minute per measurement. The procedure is:   1. set your slew rate to 1x sidereal 2. set your exposure time to 70 seconds (assumes computer control of the camera) 3. point your scope at the drift measurement location (ie celestial equator near the meridian) 4. Make sure your mount is tracking 5. Start the exposure. Track for 5 seconds, slew E for 30 seconds then slew W for 35 seconds   Examine your image. You should see each star as a bright point with a V shaped tail that passes through or by the star. If you're perfectly polar aligned, the V collapses into a line that passes through the center of the star. The width of the V at the star is a measure of drift in pixels over one minute. Adjust the mount in one direction (azimuth) and see if the V gets wider or narrower. If wider, you need to adjust in the other direction. If the V moves to the other side of the star, you moved the mount too far.   Once aligned at the first measurement point, point the mount to the second drift alignment point, the celestial equator around 30 degrees above the E or W horizon and repeat the measurement adjusting the altitude of the mount. After doing this alignment point, repeat the process for both alignment points to refine the alignment and check that doing the second point didn't change the first one.

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As I'm expecting to lose my view of Polaris to those trees in the very near future, what are my options? Software alignment usually requires pairs of stars in different parts of the sky to slew to, and these trees, along with the house to the south block almost every pair of stars. Drift align needs a clear view south (that's blocked by my house!)! So I'm in a pickle!

I need a southern view to drift align, which is blocked, mostly, by my house, up to about 75/80 degrees from the horizon.

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Do you have any examples anywhere? The PHD2 instructions show standard drift align techniques of pointing south for declination and then east / west for altitude, and closer to the horizon the better, which is an issue in every direction for me.

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You need a view of the Polaris area for this to work though. Doesn't Astrotortilla have some sort of polar alignment routine?

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So I'm very soon likely to lose my view of Polaris to polar align my mount (which is a non permanent set up). The picture below is a stitch of my NE - N - NW view from my imaging location, and I've marked the position of Polaris.

John, try Alignmaster, I've used this before when I've had trouble with a mobile set-up. There's a nice video on Astronomy Shed as well on how to use it. You just need to stars well apart and it gives you menus with a big list to choose from. The PA is usually very good with this software.http://www.alignmaster.de/

Indeed, but they are on Network Rail land, above a railway line, I really don't want to break the law, kill myself or a train full of people.

So if I chose Vega for example, I can then pick any other star in the list? Or does it have a predetermined partner I must then slew to?

I can't seem to get the perspective right with this picture. Your position of Polaris looks about 20 degrees in Altitude to me, not the 52 degrees I would expect, what am I missing?

In terms of the trees themselves, I'm hoping a conversation with Rail Track might get me somewhere, as they are not a standard neighbour and have no personal attachment to the trees and neither like / dislike or care about them it will boil down to cost for them as a company. By offering to pay the cost of the tree surgeons I might be able to get some work done on them, even if it's just to cut back the areas around Polaris.

My attempts to have Network Rail lower the heights of these trees has been totally unsuccessful, they outright refuse to consider anything not overhanging my property, and they are not! The trees are over double the size of my house, and although look a distance away in the stitched pic, aren't in reality.

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Yes an AZEQ6, do you know how is works, does this involve slewing to pairs of stars? These sorts of things like alignmaster normally present a pair of stars where I can't see 1 or both of the stars as they are blocked by trees / house.

I can't seem to get the perspective right with this picture. Your position of Polaris looks about 20 degrees in Altitude to me, not the 52 degrees I would expect, what am I missing?

To drift align you only need to be within about 20 degrees or so of the celestial equator, meridian or horizon as appropriate. If you can't get even that close you can still drift align but it takes longer as you iterate the alt and az adjustments.

I'm going from memory here, but I am pretty sure that you can change the alignment stars that the Synscan initially selects.

Yes, when the leaves drop it's easy, but here in tropical Sevenoaks that's the end of November and they're back by the end of March! 4 months of imaging from 12 doesn't make me happy!

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So if I chose Vega for example, I can then pick any other star in the list? Or does it have a predetermined partner I must then slew to?

So I'm very soon likely to lose my view of Polaris to polar align my mount (which is a non permanent set up). The picture below is a stitch of my NE - N - NW view from my imaging location, and I've marked the position of Polaris.

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Drift alignment is your friend. There's loads of tutorials on the web. If you use PHD2 then it has a drift alignment tool built in.

I guess I'm just going to need to experiment and see if my southern view is adequate enough to try and perform these methods, there doesn't seem to be any information on if they become unreliable at a certain angle over the horizon.

The pic doesn't show the ground, and it is a stitched panorama so the perspective is a little flattened. The left hand to right hand side of the pic is almost 90 degrees.

Any thoughts or ideas would be very gratefully received, as I really don't want to have to give up as I can no longer polar align my mount .

Sound's like there are some options to try out there, Sharpcap and drift align at even quite a high altitude to the south.

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I need a southern view to drift align, which is blocked, mostly, by my house, up to about 75/80 degrees from the horizon.

If you have an RA motor on your mount with settable slew rates, you cna use your camera to preform drift alignment in just a few minutes. Photographic drift alignment takes just over one minute per measurement. The procedure is:   1. set your slew rate to 1x sidereal 2. set your exposure time to 70 seconds (assumes computer control of the camera) 3. point your scope at the drift measurement location (ie celestial equator near the meridian) 4. Make sure your mount is tracking 5. Start the exposure. Track for 5 seconds, slew E for 30 seconds then slew W for 35 seconds   Examine your image. You should see each star as a bright point with a V shaped tail that passes through or by the star. If you're perfectly polar aligned, the V collapses into a line that passes through the center of the star. The width of the V at the star is a measure of drift in pixels over one minute. Adjust the mount in one direction (azimuth) and see if the V gets wider or narrower. If wider, you need to adjust in the other direction. If the V moves to the other side of the star, you moved the mount too far.   Once aligned at the first measurement point, point the mount to the second drift alignment point, the celestial equator around 30 degrees above the E or W horizon and repeat the measurement adjusting the altitude of the mount. After doing this alignment point, repeat the process for both alignment points to refine the alignment and check that doing the second point didn't change the first one.

Drift alignment is your friend. There's loads of tutorials on the web. If you use PHD2 then it has a drift alignment tool built in.

You need a view of the Polaris area for this to work though. Doesn't Astrotortilla have some sort of polar alignment routine?

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Yes an AZEQ6, do you know how is works, does this involve slewing to pairs of stars? These sorts of things like alignmaster normally present a pair of stars where I can't see 1 or both of the stars as they are blocked by trees / house.

I honestly can't remember John....it's a while since I had a Synscan mount. I know that you can definitely select from a list when selecting the first star, but i can't remember if you can do the same when selecting the second and third stars. Perhaps someone with more recent experience of Synscan can advise?

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The meaning of POLARIZER is the part of a polariscope receiving and polarizing the light.

from sharpcap: " SharpCap's plate solving only works within 5 degrees of the pole though (N or S) " The polar alignment works by analyzing two pictures taken of the area near the pole."