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A vignette is a darker border on the edges of your photographs. Vignettes generally occur in the parts of the image closest to the corners. Many photographers like vignetting and deliberately add it in Adobe Photoshop or Lightroom. But there are a few reasons it happens on its own in digital photography.

Vignettingphotography

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As long as Lightroom recognizes your lens, it will have a pre-programmed calibration profile for your specific lens. If you want to take the vignette reduction further, you can use the Vignetting slider at the bottom of that panel.

So if you focus on an object 3 meters away with a focal length of 18mm and aperture of f/11, everything from 1m to infinity will be in focus. However, if you focus on the same subject with the same aperture with a focal length of 135mm, the near focus limit is 2.9m and the far focus limit is 3.1m - the depth of field is only 20cm deep, in other words.

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In the days of film photography, vignetting was a popular method of creating separation between the actual image and the white border surrounding a print. Photographers in the dark room would deliberately burn-in the edges to create a more defined border to keep the viewer’s eye within the frame and give their photographs a sense of completion.

Sometimes, lens profiles are missing from Lightroom. If your lens is brand new to the market, you may need to update Lightroom to download new lens profiles. If your lens is uncommon or vintage, then you’ll have to use an alternate correction method.

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The term for the distance to the subject in focus is the focus distance and is measured from the image plane (sensor/film plane). The distance from the lens to the subject is called the working distance which can be significantly less within the context of macro photography. The zone which appears in focus either side (front and back) of the subject is the depth of field. This varies with the aperture - depth of field increases as the aperture gets smaller (f-number gets larger). All else being equal, depth of field is greater at f/4 than at f/2.

VignettingWitcher 3

So what's the correct term for “stuff at this distance will be in focus” then? (I.e., the thing you change with the focus ring.) If I want stuff 3 meters away to appear sharp, what parameter have I set to 3 meters?

Vignettingin games

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Focal length is the distance between the lens and the sensor when the subject is in focus, not the distance to the subject.

The specific answer to the core of your Title Question, "the term for the distance", is: Infinity. Infinity is the (imagined) subject distance in front of the optical center of the lens that corresponds to an in-focus image on the sensor when it is spaced behind the lens at the nominal focal length. The engraved "focal length" which appears somewhere on the lens housing is a hypothetical specification of the nominal distance from the lens to the sensor when (imagined) subjects at infinity appear "in-focus" on the sensor. For a simple axi-symmetric double convex lens, the measuring reference point is the optical center (also called the geometric center) of the lens. To focus images of real subjects closer than infinity, the lens must be moved away from the sensor, towards the subject. In this situation, the focus (not focal) distance is always longer than that number engraved on the barrel (the focal distance). Thus, the nominal focal length is a convenient label to characterize the focus properties of the lens assembly. For compound lens assemblies there is no easily found reference point. The reference point is the center of a hypothetical single element with the same focal length. In this case the technique to determine the reference point is very complicated. It is up to the reader to investigate further. In answer your second question regarding: “stuff at this distance will be in focus”, the term is "subject to lens distance". Given f = focal length, u = subject to lens distance, and v = sensor to lens distance, the following formula represents the relationship: 1/f = ( 1/u ) + ( 1/v ). At infinity, 1/u approaches zero.

The focal length of a lens is defined by the thin lens equation, and it can be interpreted as a measure of the inverse strength of the lens. If you make a lens's optical surfaces more strongly curved, or if you increase its index of refraction, it gets stronger, and the focal length goes down. When you change do and di so as to maintain focus, the focal length f normally stays constant; this is what justifies interpreting it as a fixed property of the lens. (As pointed out in a comment, some lenses do contain moving parts that allow them to automatically change their focal length, but this is a side issue.)

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Vignettingmeaning

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But what exactly causes this effect and why does it happen on its own in digital photography? We’ll address the different types of vignetting in your images and get you started on how to correct or adjust them in this guide.

Mechanical vignetting occurs when something physically blocks the path of light rays before they can enter the camera lens and hit the image sensor. Lens hoods, stacked filters in front of the camera lens, and extension tubes all block light at the edges of the frame. This results in a vignetting effect.

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Lightroom is perhaps the easiest post-processing software for dealing with vignettes. If your lens caused the vignette, you can solve it by clicking Enable Profile Corrections in the Lens Corrections panel in the Develop module.

The easiest alternate way to remove a vignette is by using the Effects panel. Under the Post-Crop Vignetting settings, drag the Amount slider to the right to brighten the corners and edges of the frame. You may need to play with other sliders like Midpoint, Roundness, Feather, and Highlights to get the exact look you prefer.

Vignettinglens

Natural vignetting occurs because of the law of illumination falloff. Essentially, the vignette effect is caused by the angle of light entering the lens aperture and hitting the sensor. If the light enters perpendicular to the sensor, then vignetting isn’t a problem. But if the light enters the camera lens at a more pronounced angle, then the light falloff causes a vignette. Natural vignetting is generally more gradual and less visually obtrusive than other varieties of vignette.

Many photographers enjoy a vignette on their images. Vignettes help define the border of the frame, draw the viewer’s eye to the subject or center of the image, and provide a pleasing visual quality. Some photographers create deliberate vignetting with filters or in post processing.

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Lens vignetting is caused by the physical size of your camera lens. The longer the lens barrel (practical physical length rather than focal length) or the more internal lens elements the light must pass through, the stronger the effect. Lens vignetting is more common with telephoto lenses.

Vignettingpronunciation

Generically, in optics, this is called the object distance. In photography it can also be referred to as the focal distance.

I was under the impression that the “focal length” of a lens is the distance at which stuff appears in-focus. (E.g., perhaps I set the camera so that objects 3 meters away appear sharp, and anything nearer or further than that is blurry.) But everything I've read seems to suggest that focal length is actually a slightly odd way of describing the field of view of the lens, and actually nothing to do with focus at all. (?)

Vignettingin film

A possible source of confusion is that in many cases when you're doing photography, do is much greater than di. Under these conditions, di is approximately the same as f. Therefore some people may be under the impression that the focal length is defined as the distance from lens to sensor. But in reality, when you change the focus on your camera, di changes while f stays the same.

Vignettingin radiology

everything I've read seems to suggest that focal length is actually a slightly odd way of describing the field of view of the lens

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If you’re not a fan of vignetting or you want to have more control over the size, shape, and intensity of vignettes on your images, there are a few quick solutions to consider. While you could certainly crop the edges of your photo to remove a vignette, you’ll also lose visual real estate, so it’s not the best method of correction.

If you like a vignette in your images, adding one in Lightroom is relatively easy. In the Effects panel, slide the Post-Crop Vignetting Amount slider to the left. Finally, you should see the corners and edges of your frame start to darken. Keep in mind that a little goes a long way, but just play around with the other sliders in that section until you’re happy with the results!