Peak and true peak are point in time. They measure the signal level at a specific point in time.LUFS and RMS are integrated. They measure the AVERAGE signal level over a period of time.

What is the focal lengthof a lens

subjects. Optical zoom gets up close and personal by using an actual lens adjustment and digital zoom adjusts the image in the camera itself (this figure shows the difference in the images you get):

To show this effect see three photos taken with different lenses, the front object (a street sign) is kept at the same size but the background is drastically different.

Parts of a lensand their functions

Since LUFS measures average loudness based on human perception of loudness, it gives us a more accurate representation how loud our listeners will judge the loudness of our tracks. This perceived loudness is what we care about. Our listeners aren’t going to be putting metering plugins on our tracks to judge loudness, they’re going to be listening to them.

LensHood

This is why there are so many different ways to measure levels: each is designed to measure a specific characteristic of the signal.

It’s worth mentioning again: LUFS is the industry standard. This alone is another reason to use LUFS. It will be more seamless when preparing tracks to send to streaming services and other platforms if you’re making mix decisions based on LUFS measures. Don’t worry: if you only have access to an RMS meter, that’s fine. A LUFS meter and an RMS meter will give you very similar readings. But if you have an option, I would use LUFS.

Parts of a lensexplained

It’s a simple question, but I would need more info before I can answer. Why? Because “loudness” can refer to a variety of different things, depending on the context. It could theoretically mean any of the following:

To be honest, we don’t really care that much about peak in today’s world of floating point DAWs. The only thing we need to be aware of is that the PEAK level on our master should not eclipse 0.0 dB. It’s fine if you are in the red (peak of over 0.0 dB) on individual tracks but make sure that your master Peak stays at or below 0.0.

As we know: both RMS and LUFS are integrated loudness meters. This means that they measure loudness over a period of time. The difference is how they measure loudness:

Now we understand the difference between Peak, True Peak, RMS and LUFS, and we know exactly how loud to make our masters for export to the major streaming services. Now it’s time to get ourselves a metering plugin, start measuring our loudness, and use that information to make better decisions in our mix.

Parts of a lenseye

RMS: the average loudness level of your signal over a given time period using the average power of the signal.LUFS: the average loudness level of your signal over a given time period based on human perception of loudness.

Parts of a lensnikon

We know that LUFS measure the average volume of a song over time. What the streaming platforms did was implement a maximum LUFS reading for your track as a whole. As part of the submission process, these services will run your track through their LUFS meter and turn it down if the LUFS level is too high. Thus, there’s no incentive to make your track as loud as possible; the streaming services will just turn it down.

These lenses have a narrow view field and a long focal length. Telephoto lenses are great for wildlife and sport photography, and can be good to use for portrait when you want to isolate the model from the background. Telephoto lenses compresses the view which can be both positive and negative depending on the situation. Telephoto lenses with their longer focal length require better light conditions or the use of a tripod. There are fast telephoto lenses, like a 400mm f/2, but these are often very expensive and out of reach when it comes to most amateurs — and most of these lenses are too heavy to be handheld. The last decade most companies have started to produce these high end telephoto lenses with Image Stabilizer to make them more usable without tripods. Lately this feature has been implanted in more and more low-end lenses as well.

Fisheye lenses are extreme wide-angle lenses, having a 180° horizontal angle of view. There are both Circular and Full-frame fisheye lenses, the circular will create a round image in the center with unexposed (black) edges and the full-frame lens will fill the entire sensor but will only have 180° horizontal and not vertical.

There are two types of lenses, prime and zoom. A prime lens is a lens that has a fixed focal length, these lenses comes in all shapes and price classes. Zooms are more versatile. A zoom lens can be a wide-angle lens, a normal lens and a telephoto lens — all in one — where as a prime can only be what it is. High-end telephoto lenses as well as macro lenses are almost always primes. So why choose a prime instead of a zoom lens then? Most prime lenses are considerably sharper than the zooms in the same price class, even when you go to the very high-end lenses the primes are sharper but the difference is not as distinct. Not only are primes sharper but they often have a larger maximum aperture which makes them faster and ideal in low- light situations. However, the technology is moving forward at a great speed right now and the noise levels at high ISO isn’t as visible as it was before which makes zoom lenses able to be faster as well. All in all I would recommend that people have at least one prime in their camera bag, preferably a normal lens, which is the perfect lens for many situations — sharp, fast and light-weight. Most lenses have a “sweet spot” where the lens is performing better than on other settings. Zoom lenses are often best in the middle of their range and there can be some quality loss on both the maximal and minimal focal length, but it’s different from lens to lens so your best bet is to try and see where you find the sharpest results. The aperture will also affect the sharpness, and most lenses are softer when they are wide open (largest aperture). To prevent this you can always step down one or two f-stops, if the situation allows for it.

Choosing a lens is often more difficult then choosing a camera when it comes to purchasing. One thing to remember is that a lens will last several times longer than digital cameras. A D-SLR has a limited lifespan of a couple of years, the prices on cameras just keeps on dropping and purchasing a new camera every 3-5 years is quite reasonable if you want good quality photographs & equipment. A lens on the other hand will (if handled correctly) last much longer then that, so a good lens will be an investment that you can use for a longer period of time. Another thing to think about is the fact that all the light that reaches the sensor needs to pass through the lens. A low quality lens on a high quality camera will result in bad image quality, but a good lens on a low quality camera (entry level D-SLR) can still produce good results. It’s important to realize that different lenses distort and compress the view. A wide angle lens will distort the view and distances can seem greater than they really are, while in contrast, a telephoto lens will compress the view and make far away object seem closer than they are.

Macro photography is close-up photography. Macro is a word that has been severely abused lately, every photograph of an insect or flower is not macro, and many people seems to have missed the point of what macro is supposed to be. True macro photography is at the scale of 1: or greater — this means that the object you’re photographing should be the same size or larger on the sensor. Most macro lenses have a focal length between 50mm and 200mm, and they usually have a large maximum aperture (low f-number) that gives them both the ability to be fast as well as totally isolate the subject. The background and shallow depth-of-field is a very important part of macro photography and can take quite a lot of time to master. Many modern macro lenses can focus to infinity and are prime lenses which can make them ideal when it comes to portrait photography, so just because it’s a macro lens doesn’t mean it can only be used for that type of photography.

Parts of a lensPhysics

If taking a lot of photos from far away subjects is important to you, be sure that the camera you buy has an optical zoom.

Peak, True Peak, RMS, LUFS – I’m sure you’ve all heard these terms thrown around. While they all measure gain, each does so in a different way. Therefore, it’s imperative to learn what the different measures of loudness are and how to use that information to better our mix.

Parts of a lensdiagram

Digital zoom: Some cameras offer a digital zoom, which is simply some in- camera image processing. When you use a digital zoom, the camera enlarges the image area at the center of the frame and trims away the outside edges of the picture. The result is the same as when you open an image in your photo- editing program, crop away the edges of the picture, and then enlarge the remaining portion of the photo. Enlarging the “zoomed” area also enlarges the pixels and reduces the image resolution and the image quality.

In Photography, your lens is often your most important purchase. This photography tutorial outlines some important qualities of different lenses, and how each performs in identical situations.

Normal lenses have a focal length of around 50mm; it resembles the view of the human eye and creates a natural view — unlike wide-angle that distort and telephoto that compresses the view. These lenses usually have a very low f-number, which makes them perfect for photographing in low light conditions. Back in the days this was the standard lens everybody had, often a 50mm prime lens with an aperture of f/1–f/1. The fact that they were so widely used might be one of the reasons why they have now been left behind for most beginners and amateurs — they are just seen as too boring.

True Peak is just a more accurate version of peak. It essentially measures peak but at a more detailed level. I can get more into the technical difference, but it really doesn’t matter. They measure the same thing: the maximum level your signal reaches. Using either is fine, but if you have a choice technically True Peak is more accurate.