Heat and poor components.  As long as the LED importers continue to lessen the quality of the LED components and remove the heatsink, LEDs will fail prematurely. Our research confirms this finding. You can see results on our website.

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The small black and small red wires that connect from the dimmer to the DC analog output may be connected incorrectly. Typically, we find about 15% of all controllers have the polarity swapped at the DC output. Switch the red and black wires.

Diode Dynamics

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On my desk, I have an LED that has “9w” printed all over the box. When I look at the LED and see the milliamp printed on the neck of the lamp, I find it is a 120-milliamp LED.

“SH” indicates there is a probable issue on the Load Side, that is, your sockets, bulbs, and Load Side house wiring.  Most common problems:

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Are all LEDs Reverse Phase (trailing edge)? NO. Anyone who makes that claim either has no knowledge of LEDs and dimming, or is not being truthful.

Unlikely.  When the dimmer is placed in auto mode, the display window becomes a DC volt meter. So, “-.-“ is a reading of ZERO volts.  That means one of three things:

The controller is not sending any DC analog volts.  You need to verify the output from the controller to make sure it is doing what it is programmed to do.

We can help band-aid this issue. After years of trying to find a firmware solution to this problem, we were introduced to a temporary fix while visiting the good folks at Auburn. A new ‘other milliamp’ LED can be placed at the far end of the light line. Take the old LED from that end socket, and place it in the socket of the lamp that failed. By doing this, you eliminate most of the flashing and disco effects. However, remember that an LED with a different milliamp is actually a completely different bulb, even if the part number says it’s the same. Because of this, the two different milliamp LEDs will not dim the same, as they are not the same. So, that new LED will have a different dimming curve and may go off before or after that other LEDs.

For example, Lamp and Bulb are actually confusing terms. To most people, a lamp is on your coffee table in your living room. You have it plugged in and you turn it on when you need light. And, a bulb is that thing you screw into your lamp that produces light. Actually, in lighting industry terms, a lamp is what most people call a bulb. And, a bulb is just the glass or plastic covering of the lamp. It can get confusing. Because of potential confusion, in our FAQ section, we’ll refer to lamps (that thing that actually lights up), as bulbs, like most consumers do.

Not even one ounce of truth in anything about this question. The advertisements you may have seen are not research reports but are simply brochures from a reseller of LED imports. We have email confirmation from the supposed researcher where he confesses to us that he not only does not have the expertise to do the research, he also does not have the equipment to pull it off. He also confirmed that no one at the university had the expertise, either. His email to us states that he has pulled out of the project and will not participate, yet two weeks later, he put his name to an advertisement that was designed to look like an official study. We are sorry to have to say that this entire matter is fake.

Vled

Unlikely.  When the dimmer is placed in auto mode, the display window becomes a DC volt meter. So, “-.-“ is a reading of ZERO volts.  That means one of three things:

Minimum Voltage to Maintain (MVM) – this is how the bulb is designed. It is a machine and requires fuel (volts) to operate. If you run your car gas tank down to fumes, your car will sputter and then die. Same here. LEDs need fuel. Some need more than others, so some MVM levels are lower than others. The MVM is the least amount of energy at which this bulb can stay on;

The controller is not sending any DC analog volts.  You need to verify the output from the controller to make sure it is doing what it is programmed to do.

PrecisionLED

Its far more important than resellers of imported LEDs understand. Precision Lighting Systems first discovered this problem on a new 8-house pullet farm in the Batesville, AR area. No matter what the electrician and equipment installers did, the LEDs were flashing, flickering, strobing, not dimming, or not coming on. After a lot of trial and error, it was discovered that the reseller of the imported LED being used on this farm was selling a 75-milliamp unit. The problem is, they still had distributors with 55-milliamp units. When a single ‘mixed-milliamp’ was included in the house, all the lights began reacting unacceptably. Removing that offending ‘other milliamp’ solved the problem. We called the reselling importer. They were aware but had not made the issue a priority.

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It is unlikely, but possible, the dimmer may be the culprit. If you cannot find an answer in the above two options or if you do not have a 0-10v DC analog meter, take a 9v battery that you know is good – like from your transistor radio – connect it to the small red and black wires coming out of the dimmer.  You should see a number in the dimmer display showing the strength of the battery.  If you do not, switch the polarity. If, at this point, you still only see “-.-“ you may have a dimmer hardware issue. Call us for Tech Support 800-737-1837.

The dimmer cannot cause this issue. You have a wiring connection, keyless socket, or lamp problem.  The dimmer has one line of power going to the front half of the barn and a second line of power going to the back half of the barn. It is not connected to individual bulbs. For example, in row 1, if the first 4 bulbs are on, then the next two are not, you do not have a dimmer issue. If you are qualified to evaluate and repair electrical systems, check the wiring at the keyless sockets. Don’t forget that it may just be a couple of failed or weak bulbs, which is often the case with inexpensive LEDs.

Great observation! You are correct. Many resellers of imported LEDs don’t even understand this very important problem. The higher the milliamp, the more heat it creates. The higher the milliamp, the higher the ACTUAL WATTAGE of the LED. Yes. If you have an LED that is sold as a 9w, for example, do the math.

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Threshold Voltage (TV) – LED bulbs have to recharge their capacitors before they can properly restart. This requires a higher level of energy than it uses to simply maintain at a low level. Bringing the voltage up restarts the LED, at which point dimming can resume. The MR4 allows you to produce the ideal ‘restart’ level and duration. All models of the PLS MR4 2400 LED dimmers are made to easily allow the end user to adjust this needed restart level (we call this, The Kicker). MR4 models v9.25p and higher have a default Kicker programmed in.  The Kicker will restart your bulbs, then drop back down to your preferred dim level. You may delete The Kicker or edit it to your needs.  It is simple to do.  Please see the Precision Lighting Systems, Inc. Uses Manual for The PLS MR4 2400 LED Dimmer.

The small black and small red wires that connect from the dimmer to the DC analog output may be connected incorrectly. Typically, we find about 15% of all controllers have the polarity swapped at the DC output. Switch the red and black wires.

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It is unlikely, but possible, the dimmer may be the culprit. If you cannot find an answer in the above two options or if you do not have a 0-10v DC analog meter, take a 9v battery that you know is good – like from your transistor radio – connect it to the small red and black wires coming out of the dimmer.  You should see a number in the dimmer display showing the strength of the battery.  If you do not, switch the polarity. If, at this point, you still only see “-.-“ you may have a dimmer hardware issue. Call us for Tech Support 800-737-1837.

How do they get away with it? The diodes on the LED are 9w. They sell it as a 9w. They operate it at 14.4 watts and purposefully cause the LED to fail prematurely, causing you to have to purchase more.

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Keyless (or other style) sockets: There is a reason many sockets are relatively inexpensive.   Most are not exactly built with quality and long-term use in mind. Even a new keyless socket with a damaged screw shell will be problematic. Your bulb may make contact the tab in the socket, so it will light up. However, any movement (fans, etc.) will result in amps produced that mimic a dead short. The dimmer will protect itself, in that case.

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SWIR is an acronym for Short Wave Infrared. It refers to the wavelengths from 0.9 to 1.7 microns.

Bulbs: Truth is, all of these household bulbs being used in poultry and agriculture are actually rated for 3 hours a day usage. When used 18+ hours a day, you are using 6+ days of life out of that rating. These bulbs age, and do so rather quickly. The poorer quality components that are currently being used simply add to the problems. As they age, sometimes, one or two bulbs will begin to arc on the inside. You don’t always notice it, at first. That arcing is the same pattern as crossing two live wires.

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No.  Not at all.  There is a great lack of knowledge among people who just resell imported bulbs as to how those bulbs operate and what makes them dim.  LED bulbs produce Total Harmonic Distortions (THD), because each one is its own little machine.  Those THDs are no big deal when you have 4 or 5 in your home (almost all LED bulbs being used in poultry are just household bulbs being sold as agriculture bulbs), but when you put 50, or 70, or 100 + in a poultry house, the THDs are massive.  These distortions produced by the bulbs affect the bulbs, themselves.  That is, the bulbs interfere with each other.  Those same distortions also interfere with other equipment.  You typically wouldn’t see the effects the interference caused on something like a feed motor.  However, you would easily see the effects on LED bulbs or a non-LED dimmer. The distortions created by the large number of LEDs can affect (but not harm) a non-LED dimmer, but the dimmer – even a non-LED dimmer – does not affect or harm the LED bulbs.

No. But, the Precision Lighting MR4 dimmer can fix that. The engineers designing LED bulbs consider this issue to be normal and not a problem.  It never occurs to those engineers that anyone would install these household bulbs by the multiple dozens on the same circuit.  They also would never understand why anyone would dim that household bulb 95% to 98% and keep it that low for 18+ hours a day and then try to turn them back on at that low level. From their point of view (your living room, for example), who would do this? They expect you to dim your LED down 50%, or so, while you are reading, before bed. When you turn it back on, it’s at 50%, so it works fine. LEDs have two important voltage markers:

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These bulbs also produce an incredible amount of inrush current. Inrush current occurs not only when you first turn on the bulbs, but 60 times a second the entire time the bulbs are energized. You may read 7 or 8 operating amps on each line going to the dimmer. What you cannot read with an amp meter is the inrush current. On our oscilloscopes – depending on which brand bulb, watt, and number of bulbs – we see 1,000 to 4,000 inrush amps produced by the LED bulbs that hit the dimmer 60 times a second. The dimmer is built to withstand such abuse, but it will warn you with the “SH” when the amps are getting to a potentially damaging state. Have your installer or electrician call us to help adapt the dimmer to this problem.

Heat and poor components.  As long as the LED importers continue to lessen the quality of the LED components and remove the heatsink, LEDs will fail prematurely. Our research confirms this finding. You can see results on our website.