Prisms - prisms optical

 2024-10-13 20:23:38

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It is important to remember though that a phone won't be able to focus close enough to fill the photo with the 35mm frame, so even if the camera would be good enough, the final scan will be at a low resolution, unless "macro" adapters to apply to the camera of the phone are used. Check this video for details.

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Bright-field microscopy (BF) is the simplest of all the optical microscopy illumination techniques. Sample illumination is transmitted (i.e., illuminated from below and observed from above) white light, and contrast in the sample is caused by attenuation of the transmitted light in dense areas of the sample. Bright-field microscopy is the simplest of a range of techniques used for illumination of samples in light microscopes, and its simplicity makes it a popular technique. The typical appearance of a bright-field microscopy image is a dark sample on a bright background, hence the name.

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I understand neither of these options are ideal but I'm just trying to work with what I've got available to me currently.

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My name is Riccardo, I am from Italy, living in Leipzig since 2012 and currently working in UFZ. I am actively working in the field of image data management and I am Data Steward in NFDI4BIOIMAGE.In the last years, …

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Bright-field microscopy, a method of microscopy in which the object to be observed is located in front of a bright background, called the bright field, which illuminates the microscopic image. In this process, the light passing through the object (transmitted light microscopy) or the light reflected back from it as a whole (reflected light microscopy) enters the objective of the microscope. Bright-field microscopy requires high-contrast objects, so many transmitted-light objects must be stained. In brightfield microscopy, objects appear dark or colored on a light background.

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Polarityjam is a software suite to study endothelial cell behavior and more. Visit https://polarityjam.readthedocs.io/en/latest/index.html for more informations!

The Ernst Ruska-Centre (ER-C) for Microscopy and Spectroscopy with Electrons is a national user facility open to universities, research institutions and research laboratories in industry. The ER-C is run conjointly by Forschungszentrum Jülich GmbH and …

My name is Riccardo, I am from Italy, living in Leipzig since 2012 and currently working in UFZ. I am actively working in the field of image data management and I am Data Steward in NFDI4BIOIMAGE.

Biodiversity, functioning ecosystems, clean water and intact soils all make up our natural resource base. In the face of global change, employees at the Helmholtz Centre for Environmental Research – UFZ are united by the …

As another option, could I use a light table and my phone to take photos of the scans and then invert and correct the image myself?

I have been messing around with developing negatives myself and want to scan them but I don't have a backlit scanner. I don't have a lot of money currently but have some options that might work for scanning. But I do not have access to a high-quality digital camera that would be better than my phone camera.

If there's any suggestions for ways to make these work better or which option is better pursuing to try and make work, I would appreciate it.

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That said, it's relatively uncommon to do things this way, because the "light table" needs to lay flat on the scanner bed, which makes it relatively difficult to ensure the negatives are flat and aligned. Further, the front-light in the scanner head will cause reflections that interfere with the scanning.

In your case, the combination of light table and phone looks promising, if your phone camera is macro-capable, meaning that it can achieve focus when you're close enough to the negative to make it full-screen.

If it's 35 mm you want to acquire, use a smartphone/tablet (preferably OLED) as backlight, an adapter and another phone as camera to photograph the film laying flat on the white screen of the first phone/tablet. Ideally, keep the film few millimeters away from the screen to blur the pixels, or place a piece of satin glass behind the film (it has to be transparent, non tinted glass! not the greenish standard one). Acrylic would also work.

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This is how DSLR or mirrorless camera scanning is done -- lay the negative on the equivalent of a light table and photograph it with a macro lens -- and a scanner is just a scanning-sensor digital camera, after all.

Keep in mind that most flatbed scanners not specifically designed for photo scanning ("with a backlight") won't be physically able to acquire sharp details beyond 1200 dpi (no matter what the sticker on the scanner states), and 1200 dpi on 35 mm film means 1200^2*1.5 = around 2 Mpx.

In the past, I've scanned B&W negatives on a reflective flatbed by laying a sheet of white printer paper over the negatives; the scan light passes through the negative, scatters from the paper surface, and returns through the negative to the scanner. This results in expanded contrast, but it does produce an image.

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If I want to use a digital flatbed scanner that isn't backlit, could I use a light table to manually backlight it consistently instead of using paper and a light or using something to reflect the bottom scanner light through the film. I haven't came across anyone using a light table as a work around and was wondering if that would be viable as an option.

Your reflective scanner can be used with transparent originals, after a fashion -- you merely need a steady, even light source behind the original.

So, no flatbed scanners unless designed for it. Keep an eye on local 2nd hand shops for a good one, like from Epson v500 and up.

What I'd suggest as an alternative, however, without spending money on a DSLR or mirrorless and macro-capable lens (plus copy stand and easel), is to use a smart phone. There are a number of relatively inexpensive adapters (priced all the way down to "cut your own from waste cardboard") to lay over a light source and position a smart phone camera at an optimal distance to photograph the negative; modern smart phones can thus pull up to around twenty megapixels from a 35 mm or larger negative.

I'm not aware of the ability to disable the light of a flatbed scanner via software during scan, so you would need to modify its hardware to turn off the light, but then the scanner would not be able to perform self calibration.

I have a non backlit scanner and understand that that won't work, I've seen people talk of various ways to scan with them. The one I keep seeing pop up is using a piece of paper and a light.

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Prisms - prisms optical

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