Hopefully some forum members will have experiences to share about UV curing glues, including their techniques for controlling the mess from glue squeeze-out and dripping when the parts coated with glue are initially pressed together.

My dentist uses VU hardening stuff on my teeth, so at least some of it is plenty tough. And the Youtube commercials show the stuff working magic. Right next to the 900,000 Lumen 18650 Zoomies.

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Duct tape for the lid hinge? I have a Lenovo ultralight that I replaced the battery. Battery was a thin ‘plate’ the size of the whole bottom. Broke damn near ALL the stupid little plastic clips getting the bottom off. Now held on with electrical tape. Pissed, but good enough. Jeez I miss simple little screws holding things together.

yes, the one i had was very good, i bought a tube at home depot a while ago, it had a uv on the other end of the tube, and i can’t find it anymore, and i did use it for exact same purpose, in laptop repair, those broken posts with brass inserts, it was perfect for the task, no mess, almost instant bond, and strong hold.

First UV glue I tried was Norland N0A61. Bought it specifically to glue lenses into bezels. Unfortunately, the UV light had was no good. I found the best way to cure it was to leave it outside in the sun for an afternoon. Even then, the glue never seemed that strong. It definitely wasn’t a replacement for super-glue for regular hobby projects.

I’ve done maybe 5-6 of these using just superglue and the steel powder. Four held (as far as I know) as long as the user was careful. One needed the full JB fix after it failed. But after that there is no going back as it’s a permanent fix with no way to take it apart… I’ve done a few where I drilled through the case and used a screw and bolt. Very steampunk.

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To use the pen simply draw on both surfaces to be glued with it, then wait one minute. After that, apply ANY super glue, including these UV cyanaocrylate glues. In my experience, the pen makes any cyanocrylate adhesive bind to any plastic, including rubber.

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How tough is this stuff? Can it support stress? How’s it bond to plastic and brass? If it is structurally up to the task, seems like it would be a good product to rebuild plastic structural components. Less mess than superglue, it would seem. What’s your experience? Thanks, All the Best, Jeff

To use the pen simply draw on both surfaces to be glued with it, then wait one minute. After that, apply ANY super glue, including these UV cyanaocrylate glues. In my experience, the pen makes any cyanocrylate adhesive bind to any plastic, including rubber.

There are three categories of glues; tacking, structural and sealing. You need a structural type glue to fix broken hinges. Super or cyanoacrylate glues are tacking glues and have no impact or flexing abilities regardless if some say they do. Two part epoxies either the 5 minute or regular varieties are much better for this type of application. UV epoxies are just an expensive option to the two part epoxies, they are are normally used in the electronics and dental industries where a form and instant set requirement is required, but the down side is that if the light is not intense enough it will not cure properly. Seen it many times in the electronics industry where UV epoxies ruined many expensive motherboards when the UV bulb decreases in intensity over time and the glue would not set properly and the product made it to the customer with a runny glue.

After putting this one together like 5 times, I finally got it fit together correctly… Fired it up today with an new SSD installed for a new OS install. Screen had fingerprints n it. Wiped it down. Still there. On the inside of the touch screen glass… Well crap, I gotta take it apart again. But not for a while. I’ve got way too much time on this one already.

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One other tip: Cyanoacrylate adhesives, including super glue and these UV activated cyanacrylate glues do not bond well to most plastics.

Oddly enough, this Dell has a metal lid. Naturally the hinge is connected to a plastic internal part that is held to the lid with snap on grabber thingies….

Once the joint starts to go, unless the user takes remedial action quickly, the little posts crumble and you’re are left with the little brass inserts unsupported by anything other than the surrounding components. This user had the screen duct taped together to keep it from coming apart. The hinge was forcing the screen to pry itself asunder. On this particular laptop the hing actually has a component that floats unsupported and acts as a lever to the hinge mounting points. I made a support to brace it from below so it doesn’t have a chance to flex as much. Popsicle stick shaved thinner and cut to shape did the trick.

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The light has to reach the UV glue, so bonding opaque surfaces don’t work. I’m sure, just like all glues, there is a wide variation in quality. I have a ‘cheap Chinese’ small kit, brand name [Visbella]; glue and a small UV light. Some things it worked a treat for, due to the ability to ‘freeze’ the glue quickly. Some things it didn’t stick to very well at all. Doesn’t do too well with plastic….little does.

A lot depends on how the mounting points are built. Some are hopeless and I go straight for the JB full goop repair. JB will hold as long as the surfaces are roughed up and cleaned really well. It ain’t never coming apart again.

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From what I understand, the applications for UV cured glues are limited since unless you are just top-coating a surface to give it a hard finish, a requirement for bonding items is that at least one of the materials being joined must be very transparent like glass or clear plastic so that the UV light can penetrate to the mating surfaces and cure the glue.

Baking Soda soaks up the superglue quite well. It’s easier to use than the steel powder. I’ve used it if there is some of the original plastic left to bond to. Useful for other stuff too. But the resultant solid is not as sturdy as using powdered steel dust (at least I’ve convinced myself of that) . These crappy little mounting posts are subject to both compression, shear, and extension stress. JB putty would work great, but it doesn’t stick to plastic as well as regular JB or superglue.

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The package comes with a tube of super glue, and a plastic activator pen. Feel free to use or discard the glue. It’s basically just regular super glue. What you want is the activator pen.

It’s my go-to glue for any project where I don’t want to spend a lot of time waiting for cures. And it even works where the UV light cannot reach all the glue, since exposed glue will dry within a couple hours just like exposed super glue.

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UV glue doesn’t stick to plastic very well. Tried to glue the shells of an old kitchen timer together and it didn’t last. I think superglue or epoxy is the better choice for those posts.

I still like UV cyanoacrylate glue though since I can use it like super-glue and with the added benefit of curing in less than 10 seconds with UV light when needed. However, I no longer use Fiberfix due to the aforementioned issues.

I just glued the plastic hinges on my Samsung lap top. Used crazy glue and baking soda. I had to limit the build up because of clearance issues but seems to be holding well so far KOW.

If you want to get the best lighting for a YouTube video, vlog, or professional video, the answer is to not always rely on natural lighting, as beautiful as it might be, but rather to invest in an LED video light.

I think the “glue” may be better…maybe. BUT, the little UV light with the kit doesn’t work well to kick it. Luckily I have a really strong UV light that does seem to work. Weird, you’d think any UV light “designed” for the glue would work.

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Does anybody have any experience with this stuff? I just finished a hinge rebuild on a Dell laptop. Due to poor design, the plastic posts that the hinge screw inserts are – err inserted in - start to flex and disintegrate. They like to claim it’s user abuse – even if the web if full of the same model with the same problem. Dell, if properly bullied, will replace the laptop under warranty with a referb. Since basically the case needs replacement. When the same thing happens to the referb, well warranty is over, so you are SOL.

If you knew what type of plastic it is solvent bonding might be an option. I used this method to build an enclosure for a pd trigger board for a cable to power a small 12v portable tv using a 30000mAh power brick. I couldn’t find a plastic enclosure the right length so I cut two down to give me the proper length. A little sanding on the cut ends of the boxes and lids for a nice tight seam, a drop of acetone from a glass eyedropper, a little brushing across the seam with an acid brush and I had a nice strong joint.

Once you use the pen and then apply the glue, usually the plastic will break before the glue detaches. The activator pen is awesome! [/quote]

I got this one as a left behind when I setup a new system for the user. It’s a nice laptop, and I decided to give it a go. There was enough plastic left that I built up the mounting areas with superglue and powdered steel dust. Then used the OEM mounting hardware and screws. Sort of an instant JB weld job. It’s holding so far. If it goes again, the full JB treatment, (or bolts through the case) are the last resort.

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One sneaky trick for precision work is to put a leur-lok dispensing needle on the end of a “taper tip” static mixer nozzle.

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Dell isn’t the only company that has great ideas. There are some Toshiba laptops that are great PCs. I’m typing on one now. If the keyboard goes, the replacement is relatively expensive as laptop keyboards go. BUT, it’s attached to the top clam shell with plastic studs melted into the mounting holes on the keyboard. So to remove the old one, you melt the studs with an iron. Shape them us as best you can so the new KB will fit. Then hope you have enough plastic to work with to secure the new KB. Or try superglue and baking soda How do you quote a repair like that? Well, if it works, it will be 2 hours in labor plus parts. But it might not work. And I won’t know if it works till after I’m done.

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Dell, in it’s wisdom, peens over the threads on the hinge pin. Making nearly impossible to disassemble without taking the whole frigging thing apart. And don’t get me started on cable routing through the hinge area.

The package comes with a tube of super glue, and a plastic activator pen. Feel free to use or discard the glue. It’s basically just regular super glue. What you want is the activator pen.

When the small tube ran out I went Amazon shopping for replacement. Reviews are all over the place. Finally bought a bottle called [Damned Good UV Glue]. Yeah, that’s right.

Once you use the pen and then apply the glue, usually the plastic will break before the glue detaches. The activator pen is awesome!

It does seem to have……some……useful applications. Not nearly as good a glue as epoxy or JB Weld, but it does cure almost immediately which those glues do not.

I do this mostly for grins as the cost in labor is usually more than the laptop is worth. As the super slim designs become the norm, repairs are getting harder for small shops to do. And don’t get me started on Apple products…. All the a Best, Jeff

Nowadays, I use Surehold Helios UV glue from Amazon. It comes in a black bottle that reliably keeps the glue liquid for many months after opening. And unlike with Fiberfix, every batch I’ve gotten from Amazon came liquid out-of-the-box.

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