A Vision X Duralux LED light has a lifespan of 50,000 hours, which is pretty much forever. This high performance LED worklight has the same output of a 100 watt ...

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But first I have to mention that this masterpiece my mom made turned out fantastic! It was a lot of work and love she put into it - so I had to honor it with the best frame and lighting I could think of. Thanks mom :)

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I find that it is easier to use an Optivisor and good lighting when soldering small things like 0402 SMD LEDs. I also have an LED lit magnifier and I find ...

There is one more LED strip that I mounted to the hanging rail. This rail holds the whole frame on the wall. The rail - which is actually for mounting furniture on the wall - is around 4cm high. I didn't want to have the top of the glass to be darker (remember, I asked for uniform backlight so I will do uniform backlight!). So first the rail is screwed to the wall, then the LED strip is screwed on the rail to some brackets that are welded to the white painted rail. The LED backplate has one additional connector PCB with a longer cable on the top right side, which is connected to this LED strip while hanging the frame on the wall. Behind the hanging rail is a 2mm spacer so that the whole thing has a little air gap on the wall. Yes, there are holes in the wall. There used to be a dartboard.

The working mechanism of light microscope includes projection of light through an opening on the stage. Then the projected light hits the specimen (object) and ...

Electrical: The LED strips have 1,27mm edge connectors. I didn't want to solder wires directly to them, so I designed connector PCBs. On the PCBs are SMD spring clamps (WAGO 2060) - very nice solution for such applications. Of course the cables are held in place by 3D printed brackets so they dont disturb the light. Nearly everything on the inside (cables, brackets, PCBs) is white, so no other color mixes with the stained-glass. The 24V LEDs consume 250W when on full throttle. I use a 300W 0-10V dimmable power supply together with a Shelly 0-10v dimmer.

Around that is an oak frame a friend of mine made (thanks for that Christian :) ). For the lighting, I did what everyone suggested and got a broken TV, disassembled it and took the diffusor plate and the LED strips from it. I cut the plastic diffusor plate to size and designed and 3D printed holding brackets that screw through the metal frame to the oak frame. These brackets push down the diffusor plate to the stained glass and hold the backlight plate in place while keeping 20mm space between the plates so the light can de distributed.

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So that's it. I hope you like the result :) And let me tell you, it is a HUGE difference if the light is turned on. You can see the colors so much better!

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LED Light Meter The ALX-3809 is a professional LED light meter specifically calibrated to a relative spectral sensitivity wavelength of 550nm to the JIS ...

Microscope Illumination techniques. Possibly the most used microscope lighting, by amateurs, is brightfield. It is the basic default system and is often the ...

Nov 25, 2017 — I'm worried that some of the biomes might be too dark, thus discouraging players from wanting to take up the challenge of building in some of these more ...

The glass (112x80cm) is held in a steel frame made of L-shaped profile. The frame is powder coated in black. I painted the inside in white so the light could be distributed better. The stained-glass itself is glued into the metal frame with some clear silicone glue. I glued it in, so that the weight (12kg) of the glass would not sit on the lower part of the metal frame, but to distribute the weight over the whole frame.

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Since I liked the idea, I added an 8 LED neo pixel ring to the backplate. It sits right behind the hand. This gives a really nice touch. It is controlled with an ESP8266 and ESPHome.

A prism transmits light but slows it down. When light passes from air to the glass of the prism, the change in speed causes the light to change direction and ...

For the backlight I designed an aluminum plate, which holds 31 LED strips. The plate was laser cut with around 300 holes in it. I tapped around 250 M3 threads and painted the plate white. The LED strips are actually PCBs which I could screw on to the plate. There are 30 20mm screws in the backplate which act as additional spacers, so that the backplate and the plastic diffusor plate have the same distance everywhere. Together with the lenses on each LED the light is uniform. You cannot see individual spots/points. Yes there is the thing that on the left and right sides there are less LEDs than in the middle. But since the inside of the frame is white and the light gets reflected, it is not much of an issue. At the end I had to work with what I got from the TV.