Identify a characteristic of LED bulbsquizlet

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Is the light in the shot? Is it part of the set and seen on camera? If so, you could shoot the dedo through a piece of Plexiglas rod. The rod could be painted as if it were a fixture in the vault ceiling.

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I am doing a scene in a minituarized stop motion bank vault - -and I want to put a light in it shooting straight down onto a bag of money- act as like a xenon spotlight - but with a smaller size - almost like LED size - it the literibbon perhaps the punchiest, small led strip that could work?

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If you don't see the LED light up in either orientation, then keep in mind it could be IR instead of dead. You can use most digital cameras to determine this because they can see the IR light.

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I'd consider a Dedo for this-- though it's not LED. I honestly can't think of any Xenon like LEDs in the least-- perhaps, maybe a LEP from Hive-- maybe, if heat is the issue, but on a small scale as such I think tungsten would be your friend-- especially in the cost department.

I would use a 5V supply with a 330 Ω resistor in series. You are very unlikely to have LEDs that can be damaged by this. This will put at most 10 mA through the LED if you get it in the forwards orientation, or 5 V in reverse accross it for the backwards orientation. Neither should hurt ordinary LEDs. 10 mA will be enough for even inefficient LEDs to light up visibly on the bench (assuming typical indoor conditions).

the shot is in the shot - and the vault has already been built so probably using the crappy puck light led things you can get at the home depot oh well next time.

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if not I think you are in the territory of making your own light. yea like an LED flashlight sorta thing. if you need that narrow a beam you might need to look into how lights like source 4's are built and try to build one on a tiny scale.

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let me know what you think - I can't think of many other options that would be small and spotty. we see the whole vault in the shot

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I have several hundred clear LED's of mixed colour and would like to sort them and determine their characteristics so I can use them. As far as my research tells me, there is no way to determine the forward current of an LED directly, and in order to determine forward voltage you need to know forward current. My question is, how do LED manufacturers determine these values, and is there any way I can do the same?

on the visible light spectrum scale, the __________.

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2024129 — Spotlight lighting provides a narrow 'spot' of light that illuminates the narrow area you wish to highlight, whereas floodlights provide a wide span of light.

I would totally vote for a Dedo DLED4.1 kit! I just used a set of 4 of these on a shoot recently because we were working with mainly daylight balanced units and still needed the ability for small pools of light and/or a lot of controlled fill. They're great for what you're describing as I found the color to be incredibly accurate (and I hate most LED units) and they still work with all the standard Dedo accessories. If you need a very direction spot of light, I would suggest a DLED4 and an 85mm (or possibly 100mm) projector lens attachment. This will give you shutters and an iris, and it also acts as a clean spot, which will give you a great beam if you introduce haze. If the output is too much, they have great dimming capability and I found them fully flicker-free (although thats not an issue for stop-motion). Finding a rental house in NYC that carries them shouldn't be too difficult either.

Rig up a jig to show the voltage across the LED. Since the power voltage and resistor are known, you can calculate the current from this too. This will give you one datapoint for voltage and current, which should be good enough for most purposes.

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I think yes as far as LED tech the litegear Lite ribbons use the highest powered most color accurate tech out right now as far as I know.

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Just about all LEDs can take at least 20 mA. This is almost certainly true of anything in a discrete leaded case, like T1-3/4 or T1. Some small SMD parts may be rated for less.

I just happened upon this tutorial which answers the problem of sorting the colors for your clear LEDs. Use a microcontroller to switch back and forth so you don't need to worry about polarity. It won't tell you the forward voltage and current specifications, but those would be difficult to actually tell in any case. All you'll really be able to tell is when it turns on, if you go over current you'll likely only know when it's already too late for that LED. If you had known duplicates, this information would be useful, but if each one is its own sample then it's pointless.