Thanks Lexel, I really appreciate your help. That sounds good. Is that easy enough for a novice to put together do you think, or should I find someone experienced to put it together for me?

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Dedomed Cree XPG2 or XPE2 might be an option for very small emitters, but not something for a beginner, need to reflow on DTP for the XPE2

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The link below will show you an example of the effect I’m trying to create. (Couldn’t hotlink and show it here for some reason)

LED indoorspotlightfixture

Perhaps take the glass and reflector out of the 10W flood and see what happens. I have a couple 12V 10W in warm white here if you need me to give a try. No cool white on AC current here at home. I think the fuzzy shadow is from the glass reflecting back on the reflector and mimicking multiple light sources. If it works and you need brighter go with 20W. These lights are over rated so even a 20W is only about 13W actual.

It’s a festoon bulb to fit car number plates or reading lights. It claims to be 250 lumens and is in fact incredibly bright. The tiny single emitter means that there is almost no blurring of the shadow on the floor. I can house it in a waterproof case and use standard car bulb fittings. However, I need a bit more oomf! I think that I could really do with 400-500 lm.

Thanks Lexel. Those links are interesting. I’ve wondered if adapting torches might be a possible solution. I’d probably be driving 5 or 6 of these in total, so am assuming that I can just do the maths and get a driver that delivers enough power to each for my needs. Weatherproofing is my other concern, but I’ve seen some ip67 cases that may work.

Spotlights Indoor

Perhaps take the glass and reflector out of the 10W flood and see what happens. I have a couple 12V 10W in warm white here if you need me to give a try. No cool white on AC current here at home. I think the fuzzy shadow is from the glass reflecting back on the reflector and mimicking multiple light sources. If it works and you need brighter go with 20W. These lights are over rated so even a 20W is only about 13W actual.

If it helps anyone: this reflector-less kind of light is commonly called a “mule”. I’d have my C8 like that, but without the reflector there’s nothing holding up the lens, and I’m not a fan of such blatantly-vulnerable hardware :confounded:

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3-lightspotlightfixture

You need an unobstructed light source. No lens no reflector to get a crisp shadow at that short 10-15cm distance. What we call a zoomie flashlight comes close but not at the short distance. I now tried a flashlight with no lens and no reflector and it casts a nice circle of light and has very crisp shadows of my hand on the ceiling, closer and further away than your requirements. You should be able to get it close to just the size of the steel plate.

Aha! I have someone doing exactly what I seem to spend hours of my life doing! I spend a huge amount of time shining lights through my peg basket. Flashlights with no lenses definitely give the right effect. I did pretty much dismantle the 10 w flood to see what was making it blurred. I think it’s just the width of the array itself (is that the right word?). It’s not in front of me now but I think it’s about 10 mm squared or so. That’s just too broad at the distances I’m needing.

1) Cree XP-E2 ‘Torch’ When driven at 2.2A (it can not be driven much higher) and well heatsinked, it puts out 500 lumen when dedomed. The led with dome is the same size as the led in your picture above, but it can be dedomed what makes it an even tinier source for even crisper shadows.

The only things that seem to be able to do the job are the cree xlamps. However I can’t seem to find that in any consumer product (such as a car bulb) as a single smd.

Q: Where are Spot Lights commonly used?A: LED spotlights are commonly used in various applications, such as accent lighting in homes, museums, art galleries, retail stores, hotels, restaurants, and landscapes. They are also used in stage lighting and theatrical performances due to their directional and focused beam characteristics.

Thanks Firelight2. That’s pretty much what I’ve gleaned from scouring the RS catalogue. I suppose I was hoping for some existing ready made solution that would fit the bill. The lighting feature is to be mounted externally on a nature reserve visitors centre wall. It’ll be eventually wired up by a registered electrician, but I’m wary of dabbling with leds/electronics that are way out of my experience for something that’s going to be in the public realm. Is there anyone you could recommend who could provide/build what I need?

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The project: I’m making laser cut steel panels with botanical designs cut in to them. These will be sconces/shades fixed to an exterior wall through which I want to shine a light so that the cut out pattern will be projected on to the floor. Essentially they are big steel lampshades, likely to be around 60cm x 40 cm. They will be around 10-15cm from the light source.

Take a proper heatsink, use thermal glue to get the star on it. Use glue to seal off the 4 sides of the LED and the solder pads.

Spotlightfixture Outdoor

http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024418.Cree-XM-L-T6-Neutral-White-5000K-5500K-with-18mm-x-18mm-Aluminum-Base Or XPL will be a little sharper http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024472.Cree-XP-L-HI-V2-Neutral-White-4500K-LED-Emitter-with-KDLIGHT-3535-20-20mm-x-1_5mm-DTP-Copper-MCPCB

What I’ve tried: Cheap chinese Creee Q5 torches give me quite a nice light and crisp shadows, but I obviously cant hook this up to the mains. 0.5w strawhat led. Perfect light - way too dim 10w COB floodlights- Perfect brightness. Weatherproof. Unfortunately, they cast a fuzzy shadow. 3030 superblock 1.4w 120 lumen module. A bit fuzzy and a bit too dim.

I forgot to mention that to get the mentioned performance, both leds need soldered onto a so-called DTP ledboard, which gives ultimate heatsinking. Make sure that your builder uses them! The Oslon officially does not fit the most used XP-type boards but you can succesfully solder them on there anyway.

Use the Buck driver set to 1.5A per emitter, you can wire all emitters in series if your power supply provide >4V per LED.

Best choice is probably something like a CREE XPL HI LED run at 2-3 amps mounted on a heatsink and attached to a power supply to allow it to be plugged into an outlet. Depending on how many amps you run it at, you could easily get 500-1000 lumens.

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You need an unobstructed light source. No lens no reflector to get a crisp shadow at that short 10-15cm distance. What we call a zoomie flashlight comes close but not at the short distance. I now tried a flashlight with no lens and no reflector and it casts a nice circle of light and has very crisp shadows of my hand on the ceiling, closer and further away than your requirements. You should be able to get it close to just the size of the steel plate.

I see no problem taking a flashlight with a really short reflector and replace it with a spacer. Or one to replace a lens with glass.

I play a lot with lights (with very little tech knowledge though). I make thousands of lantern lights for parades and various bespoke (shonky) lights for my long exposure light painting photos. However I have become stumped with a project I have on at the minute…

Q: Are Spot Lights compatible with dimmer switches?A: Many LED spotlights are dimmable and can be used with compatible dimmer switches. However, not all LED spotlights support dimming, so it's essential to check the product specifications or consult with the manufacturer before purchasing.

(All the ramblings below add up to this: I need a 500 (ish) lumen 1 smd light source in order to cast strong crisp shadows. Ideally something I dont have to build myself)

What about using a reflector as well so light isn’t bouncing all over the place? You could set up a wide angle to cover the area where the cut outs are but it ensures that light isn’t bouncing around elsewhere.

2) Osram Oslon Black Flat Driven at 3.5A it puts out 700 lumen. The led is already without dome, exact the same die size as the ‘Torch’

Itsonlyme - thanks for your suggestion. My limited experimentation with reflectors has left me with blurred edges to the shadows, even though it throws more light forward. It’s as if the light is coming from a much broader source. The pin prick of light gives the crispest beam. I wonder if some combination of lenses might work, but that’s beyond my ken!

My problem: I need the smallest pinprick of light of the highest lumen output in order to cast a crisp shadow. It needs to be suitable for exterior use too. There are many light sources that will give me a blurry shadow, but very few that make it crisp. It really needs to be a tiny, naked light source, as far as I can tell. I would love to find some off the shelf product that would suit, but would also consider building something - or working with someone experienced who could make something bespoke for me.

LED Spot Lights are directional lighting fixtures that use light-emitting diodes (LEDs) as their light source. They are designed to emit a concentrated and focused beam of light, making them ideal for highlighting specific objects, artwork, or architectural features in both residential and commercial settings.

You can drive the light with a buck driver like this set to 4V, or replace the driver with this set to 1.6A for 500Lumens