Being old school I prefer string/line, I have a roll of electric fence wire (platted nylon with wire ) which is very strong and does not stretch .

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If you are set on lasers, at that distance, I'd use the laser rangefinder I use for shooting  . That one's a bit expensive for what you want but there are many for less than £80

But it is much more fun and satisfying to do it yourself, and in doing so you might also notice any quirks in the landscape, and change your mind where to put this new boundary.

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Hilarious, but useful. Thanks for your input. I think I shall use some rods fashioned from materials I have or can easily obtain. This is for a generalised guide, it'll be as accurate as I need it to be.

Sometimes the old ways are best....these are still for sale so plenty people still using them. They look good on your site too, and are a good way to wind up the neighbours that a road is coming through..

If you are set on lasers, at that distance, I'd use the laser rangefinder I use for shooting  . That one's a bit expensive for what you want but there are many for less than £80

They are not expensive, can be found in sectional form (for storage and to make extra high) , and are handy for any marking out....so handy for other people that they keep disappearing.

3. Buy  rods that are in sections so can go higher.https://www.yorksurvey.co.uk/1m-point-jointed-pole-section-c2x23061987

In a nutshell, we are splitting the property perpendicular to the longest boundary of the whole plot. That long boundary has 'slipped' by a fairly substantial amount (over a metre along its entire 70m length), but as we are now going to fit a proper fence I'd like to get the bit on the land we are retaining as close to being on the correct line as possible. The bit on the land we're selling is for the new owners to argue if they wish.

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Modern equipment and methods are very easy and precise. So on this post it would be feasible to get a land surveyor with a fancy machine to mark your points out for half a day's pay...£300. You should be in attendance for banging posts and any decisions.

Everything needs to be looked over, just by eye and perhaps pacing to check for anomalies. For example here, if the satellite guided positions of 4 posts don't look straight.

1. Cut the hedge locally....you will know where when you start. For first approximation you can have someone hold it high.

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Why do I resist modern methods? I don't, but they are so easy to use that they are used by some people who don't really understand what they are doing , and  mistakes are missed.

If you want it for legal purposes then get the surveyor to map it with a GPS marker and then transpose this to the floor with pegs. He will be able to do it within 30cm.

Laser levelling can go wrong too. The modern groundworker uses them, but doesn't know the principles of levelling. So if it is out of adjustment, and using long and short sightings, big errors can arise.

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I am having our land surveyor back for other stuff but I'd ideally like him to survey the fence once completed, as opposed to him coming earlier to peg out the position.

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Sometimes the old ways are best....these are still for sale so plenty people still using them. They look good on your site too, and are a good way to wind up the neighbours that a road is coming through..

3. Buy  rods that are in sections so can go higher.https://www.yorksurvey.co.uk/1m-point-jointed-pole-section-c2x23061987

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For the cost, everyone should have one. This one is £10, and if you fix it to timbers, as the following pic, you have control .You can get a hydraulic oil version with digital readout of level difference for £400.

I'm not set on anything specific. As I said, I'm not concerned with anything other than the position and straightness of the line. I need to put a marker in, on the line about halfway along and only need the physical position on the ground, so the visual line-of-sight method will work I think, as long as I can see it over that distance.

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You can use a garden hose(s) and just attach some clear sections each end with jubilee clips etc. Just make sure the air's all out.

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I can see both points and have clear line of sight, but it'll be hard to run a string, not to mention keep it taught. Does a laser pointer exist that will do this? I don't need it to measure or level, just show me a line. Once I have that, I can get some markers down to ground level.

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1. Cut the hedge locally....you will know where when you start. For first approximation you can have someone hold it high.

They are not expensive, can be found in sectional form (for storage and to make extra high) , and are handy for any marking out....so handy for other people that they keep disappearing.

As for water levels recommended above They are invaluable in confined spaces. I spent 2 uncomfortable days under a Boots pharma factory, but there was no other way with 4 ft headroom.

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