To compensate for too much mag or to match more closely the microscope FOV, one can use c-mounts with reduction lenses in order to adjust the field of view seen on the monitor. The reduction lens you require will depend on the chip size of your camera so if your camera has a 1/2" image sensor, you'll want the 0.45X c-mount. See the table at right for other adapter suggestions. Experienced users have an assortment of reduction lenses to accommodate different situations or specimens as c-mounts are relatively inexpensive.

c-mount thread dimensions

C- and CS-mount lenses are both threaded lens mounts found on most industrial CCD cameras and lenses. The difference between C and CS-mount equipment is the distance between the flange of the lens (the part of the case that butts up against the camera) and the focal plane of the lens (where the CCD sensor must be positioned). This is known as the flange back distance.

As image resolution is most desirable in all microscopy applications, 1/4" chips are just not well suited for microscopy while the 1/2" and 2/3" chip cameras strike a better balance between magnification, resolution and the size of the virtual image that the camera is seeing which to the eye appears much like a flashlight beam.

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CS Mountadapter

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The C-mount lens specification for flange back distance is 17.53 mm, and on CS-mount lenses it is 12.53 mm. However, on Point Grey cameras, these physical distances are offset due to the presence of both a 1 mm infrared cutoff (IRC) filter and a 0.5 mm sensor package window. These two pieces of glass fit between the lens and the sensor image plane. The IRC filter is installed by Point Grey on color cameras; in monochrome cameras, the IRC is replaced with a transparent glass window. The sensor package window is installed by the sensor manufacturer. The refraction of these glass components requires an offset in the flange back distance from the nominal values.

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Hi Peter, I just wanted to tell you how much I have enjoyed your amazing photos, videos and articles. And I have learned how to apply some of the parts of Olympus cameras that had been a little confusing. I am working my way through putting that knowledge into practice. I use the OM 1. After a few years of bird photography with the wonderful 300 mm lens, I shifting toward stars and landscapes and an am really enjoying the old primes, the 12, 25 and 75 and having light kit is divine. Look forward to reading and viewing more from you.

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Meiji Techno C-Mount Adapters with reductions lenses are easily removed from the optical path by simply removing the black colored lens piece and then re-attaching the camera to the tube directly when higher on-screen magnification is needed. Click HERE to try our On-Screen Magnification Calculator Page to see how different combinations of objectives, auxiliary lenses, c-mounts, camera chip sizes and monitor sizes effect the magnification seen on the monitor screen.

As new cameras come into the market each month, it is a never ending task to stay informed. Meiji Techno Co., Ltd. is committed to developing quality camera adapters for the most viable makes, models and form factors.

Meiji Techno cameras have "CS" mounts so they can also accommodate "C" mounts when a spacer is first threaded onto the camera providing the additional 5mm per the "C"-Mount specification as shown above.

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The V-5MM is included with all the CK Series Analog Video Cameras that Meiji sells and supports. The adverse result that can happen when a spacer is not installed is a phenomenon known as "vignetting".

Hi Peter, This helped a lot … I’ve been struggling with different settings and been verry confused when I get some images in the series absolutely out of focus or no focus at close or distance objects. An other issue has been “double” objects from the merge process. I’ve been focusing a bit longer in to the motive and not as you are doing, closest object. I’ve also used focus differentiation settings closer to or at 10 to get the very distance sharp. I’ve used 4 – 6 shots in the series. I’ve used aperture settings to get a larger depth of field then you are, f 8 - f 11. I use focus bracketing mostly on my 7-14mm and 12-40mm lenses but sometimes also on my 40-150mm lens. I got the impression from your text that you use the same settings on all lenses also tele, is this correct? The issue with “doubled” objects can that be due to me using to large depth of field, aperture settings at f 11, getting overlaying sharp areas from different shots confusing the application? I’ve been using Helicon Focus but had trouble with it and found that Olympus Workspace is creating a better result. How do you see O. W. compared to PS? For me you nailed it with the way you described the process in detail, verry nice work! I will take a tour, already today, and test according to your recommendation, that obviously works. By the way you take amassing photos 😊

Hi Peter, I am very happy that I found your blog and this article. I always wanted to try Focus BKT with my E-M1 Mark II, but now with this informations there is no more excuse not to do it. Very good explained, thanks a lot!

The process which causes light waves to vibrate in a single plane is called polarization of light.

If you have a CS-mount camera and a C-mount lens, you can add a 5mm spacer to obtain the correct focus. If, however, you have a C-mount camera and a CS-mount lens, correct focus cannot be achieved.

CS-Mount lens

Peter Baumgarten is a professional photographer and educator. He is also an Olympus Visionary and NiSi Official Photographer.

A microscope objective is composed of a complex set of lenses and optics, and different objectives are designed for different imaging tasks.

Very glad someone passed on the link to this article. What a great service you have provided to help us get started using this feature of our OMD cameras!

Great tutorial. I've been wanting to try focus bracketing for landscape. I've done it once manually at Mt. Nemo on the Bruce Trail and it turned out well. Had to stack afterwards as it was the EM10i, which didn't have stacking nor did I have a lens that allowed it in camera. But, it definitely helps.

As one can see, image sensors in cameras are actually quite small. The smaller the sensor, the more inherent magnification. The larger the sensor, the better the resolution with less magnification.

Hi, Peter! In the BTS picture looks like you are using a 100mm filter system on a 7-14mm lens. I'm wondering how do you avoiding vignetting with wider shooting angles?

CS-mount diameter

hello Peter, as all your articles very well liked by me. I was wondering: in your blog on "Exposure Bracketing" you use Sequential High so you can shoot without a tripod. Is this also a good idea for Focus Bracketing?

Thanks Peter for not just explaining the principles but giving the critical gritty details such as number of shots, focus band and apperture. VERY useful. Looking forward to trying it out with my Leica 8-18 mm soon!

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I've now read and studied this tip and found it to be very helpful in understanding Focus Stacking on my M1.3. But, great information sometimes brings up an extra question or two. (1), when I look at the image files, it's hard to tell which frame is the "finished" one. With my camera set to record JPEG and Raw, there's quite a number of shots.After looking closely, I think it's the first one in the series of exposures, which if so, leaves me a little puzzled because (2) being a "stack" of all frames, there seems to be individual frames with better focus. BTW, I was shooting in the same area of your photos from Zion Canyon. Wonderful area.

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A c-mount adapter for your microscope without a lens in it, is merely a connector for your camera. What you'll get is a "direct image" on the monitor screen, which is more magnification than what is seen in the eyepieces due to the inherent magnification with image sensors and microscopes. While this arrangement is fine for some users, others require an image on the monitor that looks more like the Field Of View, or FOV, that is seen in the microscope eyetubes.

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Peter, great article and timely for me as I want a "very near to far" in focus landscape image. Unfortunately, I do not get a far ridge line to come in focus (OM-1 &12-40/Pro, f8) using 8 shots - in camera stack at differential of 3. If I shoot a single shot at f8 and focus 10 feet away, everything is in focus. Any suggestions?

Sensor sizes are often designated using fractions such as 1/1.8" or 2/3" which are larger or smaller than the actual sensor diagonal dimension. This sensor size designation goes all the way back to standard sizes given to Vidicon camera tubes developed in the 1940's and is unfortunately, still in use today.