The worst thing about M.2 right now is a general scarcity of components. OEMs buying parts directly from manufacturers probably have more choices, end users buying M.2 cards from Newegg or Amazon will find that they have few options, especially compared to the selection of mSATA and mPCIe components. That will change as M.2 goes mainstream and those older connectors begin to fade. Broadwell is a big step forward in that transition.

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So the specimen is laying flat in a black plastic container, I was planning on mounting a geared head to a lateral arm on top of my tripod, and placing this above the specimen. Placing a light above the specimen would end up causing shadows from the camera obstructing the light source.

Crosspolarizedlightmicroscopy

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I also tried taking a picture of reflections in a glass. I rotated the CPL until it didn't seem to be effecting the image and got reflections as expected:

This is a lot to digest, but it's most of what you need to know to understand M.2. There are some other stipulations around the physical thickness of the cards that you can read about in the documentation, but they aren't as important to our discussion today.

As for your biological specimen- perhaps try to light it from above as in the diagram in my previous post. Generally, a CPL filter can negat reflection in water but can rend ir as "black" and negate any texture.

I havent shot it yet. I was first just testing out this film as soon as I got it. I suppose regardless I'll try to cut a gel to fit the R200 this weekend and give it a shot and see what I get.

All current keys can give cards access to two PCI Express lanes, but otherwise interface compatibility is all over the place—so far, it's been pretty easy to guess what kind of peripheral you're dealing with based on the key it uses. Wi-Fi and WWAN cards tend to use keys A and/or E, since they only need the PCI Express or USB 2.0 buses and only need 30mm in length to fit all their key components. SATA SSDs and SSDs that use two PCI Express lanes tend to use keys B and M to maximize compatibility, since both connectors can deliver both SATA III and two PCIe lanes. The very fastest SSDs tend to be M-keyed since it's the only one that delivers four PCIe lanes.

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I mean from the photos above pointing at my display, it looks like both my CPL and the film arent polarizing 100% of the spectrum, but my sun glasses do.

6. In some cases lie product still life, etc., regular polarization, justthe filter on the camer, is sufficient. That kind of setup works well with an overhead softbox- over the set.

Cross polarizationphotogrammetry

Perhas try shot without any polarization and just with the on-camera filter. If the cor is correct, by the process of elimination, you may isolate the issue to the Rosco fim.

Does the entire image turn blue or just the specimen? I have never shot anything formaldehyde, I wonder if it has properties that cause spectral changes.

Perhas try shot without any polarization and just with the on-camera filter. If the cor is correct, by the process of elimination, you may isolate the issue to the Rosco fim.

The different connectors signify different M.2 "module keys." Each key exposes a different set of interfaces to each card—M.2 can connect directly to the PCI Express bus, but different pins can be used to connect to the USB 2.0 and 3.0 buses, SATA III, DisplayPort, and a variety of other less-prevalent storage buses. Cards with one notch at the bottom are keyed for one specific kind of connector. Cards with two notches can be used in two different kinds of connectors.

There are a couple of different standards that have been created to solve this problem, and they both solve it in the same basic way. One, SATA Express, uses the same physical connector as older SATA drives but uses PCI Express lanes rather than the SATA bus to boost storage speeds. The other, which will be more common in space-constrained mini-desktops, all-in-ones, and Ultrabooks, is called M.2 (previously NGFF, for "Next-Generation Form Factor").

I just grabbed my CPL filter and viewed my monitor. As I rotate the filter it grayed down the whites and finally blacked out. When I reversed the filter, back to front, it goes BLUE!

The table above lays out the keys in common use today—there are others, mostly placeholders to be called into service as newer buses and interfaces are introduced.

Considering that this issue happens even when looking at the light straight on, I doubt the facets in the glass are causing this problem.

As for your biological specimen- perhaps try to light it from above as in the diagram in my previous post. Generally, a CPL filter can negat reflection in water but can rend ir as "black" and negate any texture.

As for the overhead lighting: You can place the light slightly to the back of the specimen- not directly over it. Then fill in with a small reflector card covered wiht aluminum foil. You will still be able to bring the camera in directly over the subject. You will get good surface texture and detail.

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4. Polariazg filtration does not work well on metallic reflections.  I have experienced cases where they discolor metallic reflections rather than negating them.

I ordered some Rosco linear polarization film and cut out a piece. I put the round head on my Godox AD200 Pro, sandwiched some polarization film in front of it, and put a Sigma WR CPL on my lens. After rotating it to the correct angle with the modeling light on, I took a picture with the flash firing and the film was lit up blue:

3. The drinking glass in your image is multi-faceted and the reflections are coming back to the camera from various angles. If the above remedies do not work, try moving the lights. The angleof incidence is an important consideration in polarization.

I have these Sigma WR CPLs in mutiple sizes. When looking through them with my eye from the same direction the lens does, they all block most of the light from my monitor except for part of the blue spectrum. When looking through them the wrong way, it tints the color somewhat yellow or blue depending on the orientation of the filter, similar to what I would expect from a a Singh Ray Gold-N-Blue polarizer

I just grabbed my CPL filter and viewed my monitor. As I rotate the filter it grayed down the whites and finally blacked out. When I reversed the filter, back to front, it goes BLUE!

Yeah it isnt, it works as intended when looking at my monitor, albeit with a blue tint as well unlike my sun glasses, which is rather disappointing since this was a $186 filter:

5. You may end up with some of the reflections remaining which is ok if they are well-placed and provide modeling and special highlight in the right places.

As for your biological specimen- perhaps try to light it from above as in the diagram in my previous post. Generally, a CPL filter can negat reflection in water but can rend ir as "black" and negate any texture. Perhas try shot without any polarization and just with the on-camera filter. If the cor is correct, by the process of elimination, you may isolate the issue to the Rosco fim.

Cross polarizationfilter

Most solid-state drives released within the last year or so have been too fast for the bus they're connected to. The 6Gbps SATA III spec was finalized in the days when rotational hard drives still ruled and SSDs were rare, ludicrously expensive, and relatively unreliable.

Off the top of my head, what might help is to put some diffusion o the head and then mount a larger sheet of polarizer at a small distance from the flash .

Yes circular, 82mm Sigma WR CPL on a 40mm Sigma Art with a Nikon Z7. Although this blue color happens even with two pieces of linear film and my naked eye (or camera).

Do you have experience with Rosco film specifically? Did I just get a defective batch? Is it Rosco film just defective in general? Is there perhaps another supplier which would work better such as B + W? Rosco was the only supplier on Adorama which offered it in large pieces. The B + W at 200x200mm might just barely fit.

What’s the best camera for around $1500? These midrange cameras should have capable autofocus systems, lots of direct controls and the latest sensors offering great image quality. We recommend our favorite options.

Do you have experience with Rosco film specifically? Did I just get a defective batch? Is it Rosco film just defective in general? Is there perhaps another supplier which would work better such as B + W? Rosco was the only supplier on Adorama which offered it in large pieces. The B + W at 200x200mm might just barely fit.

I ordered some Rosco linear polarization film and cut out a piece. I put the round head on my Godox AD200 Pro, sandwiched some polarization film in front of it, and put a Sigma WR CPL on my lens. After rotating it to the correct angle with the modeling light on, I took a picture with the flash firing and the film was lit up blue:

I'm looking to take a picture of a wet specimen - basically a biological sample in a bath of diluted formaldehyde and water lighted with a Godox R200 ringlight.

The key system isn't always foolproof—our A- and E-keyed Wi-Fi module will physically fit into the B-keyed SSD slot even though the computer won't recognize it there. M.2 is certainly more confusing than the mPCIe and mSATA specs, but in the end it's more flexible. Components can access many different buses through one small internal connector, and you've got a lot of different physical card sizes to play with instead of being tied to either a "full-height" or "half-height" card.

I just grabbed my CPL filter and viewed my monitor. As I rotate the filter it grayed down the whites and finally blacked out.  When I reversed the filter, back to front, it goes BLUE!

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Yes circular, 82mm Sigma WR CPL on a 40mm Sigma Art with a Nikon Z7. Although this blue color happens even with two pieces of linear film and my naked eye (or camera).

I havent shot it yet. I was first just testing out this film as soon as I got it. I suppose regardless I'll try to cut a gel to fit the R200 this weekend and give it a shot and see what I get.

Pay attention to two things as you compare and contrast these cards. First, the physical connector on each card is different; each card has different cutouts in the bottom and exposes different pins. Second, the cards are of different lengths and widths. All of this is accounted for in the M.2 spec (PDF).

I havent shot it yet. I was first just testing out this film as soon as I got it. I suppose regardless I'll try to cut a gel to fit the R200 this weekend and give it a shot and see what I get.

And when I rotated the CPL until it seemed to have a maximum effect, the reflects were minimized but what remained was blue again:

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So the specimen is laying flat in a black plastic container, I was planning on mounting a geared head to a lateral arm on top of my tripod, and placing this above the specimen. Placing a light above the specimen would end up causing shadows from the camera obstructing the light source.

I just grabbed my CPL filter and viewed my monitor. As I rotate the filter it grayed down the whites and finally blacked out. When I reversed the filter, back to front, it goes BLUE!

Cross polarizationantenna

1. Make sure the Rosco sheet is properly oriented. If they are not the setup will not work correctly. To find the orientation, simply sandwich 2 sheets together in front of a light source and rotate oneof the 'till the blackout. Then mark both of them on one side at the top of each sheet and placed the over the lights with marks in the same direction. I mounted mine in cardboard frames with said markings.

Above is a picture of two M.2 slots on the motherboard of an HP Stream Mini. The slot on the left uses module key E, and the one on the right uses module key B. The Wi-Fi card is keyed for slots A and E, so it fits in the left slot with no problems. The Intel SSD is keyed for slots B and M, so it fits in the right slot. The Samsung SSD is keyed for slot M, so it won't fit in either of the Stream's slots.

Let's start with the physical connector and the things that connect to it. There's a lot to unpack, starting with the fact that there's more than one kind of M.2 connector, more than one type of interface that can be used with M.2, and more than one kind of M.2 card.

Where is that ring light placed- off the camer or where the lenses concentric to the flash tube- the traditional mounting around the lens? I have never done that with a polarizer on the flash unit.

Yes circular, 82mm Sigma WR CPL on a 40mm Sigma Art with a Nikon Z7. Although this blue color happens even with two pieces of linear film and my naked eye (or camera).

2. Make certain that the CPL filter is somehow not reversed. The polarizing element in the filter is at the back, the side facing the camera.

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Yeah it isnt, it works as intended when looking at my monitor, albeit with a blue tint as well unlike my sun glasses, which is rather disappointing since this was a $186 filter:

1. Make sure the Rosco sheet is properly oriented. If they are not the setup will not work correctly. To find the orientation, simply sandwich 2 sheets together in front of a light source and rotate oneof the 'till the blackout. Then mark both of them on one side at the top of each sheet and placed the over the lights with marks in the same direction. I mounted mine in cardboard frames with said markings.

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Does the entire image turn blue or just the specimen? I have never shot anything formaldehyde, I wonder if it has properties that cause spectral changes.

I was wondering if someone could help me understand what is going on with my attempts at cross polarization. I wanted to take some pictures with cross polarized light to remove specular reflections, and it is kind of working, but not exactly as expected. Instead of removing the reflections entirely, it seems to be doing it for only part of the spectrum, leaving the blue reflections behind.

As for the overhead lighting:  You can place the light slightly to the back of the specimen- not directly over it.  Then fill in with a small reflector card covered wiht aluminum foil.  You will still be able to bring the camera in directly over the subject. You will get good surface texture and detail.

M.2 is interesting not just because it can speed up storage with PCI Express lanes, but because it can use a whole bunch of different buses too; it stands to replace both mSATA and mini PCI Express, two older standards that have been used for SSDs and Wi-Fi cards in laptops for a while now. Intel's new Broadwell CPUs and their chipsets include native support for M.2 and PCI Express boot drivers—neither PCIe-connected storage (hi Apple) nor the M.2 connector itself are new, but beginning with Broadwell systems each of those two things will become much more common.

Where is that ring light placed- off the camer or where the lenses concentric to the flash tube- the traditional mounting around the lens? I have never done that with a polarizer on the flash unit.

Cross polarizationphotography

I'm looking to take a picture of a wet specimen - basically a biological sample in a bath of diluted formaldehyde and water lighted with a Godox R200 ringlight.

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3. The drinking glass in your image is multi-faceted and the reflections are coming back to the camera from various angles. If the above remedies do not work, try moving the lights. The angleof incidence is an important consideration in polarization.

1.  Make sure the Rosco sheet is properly oriented. If they are not the setup will not work correctly. To find the orientation, simply sandwich  2 sheets together in front of a light source and rotate oneof the 'till  the blackout.  Then mark both of them on one side at the top of each sheet and placed the over the lights with marks in the same direction. I mounted mine in cardboard frames with said markings.

6. In some cases lie product still life, etc., regular polarization, justthe filter on the camer, is sufficient. That kind of setup works well with an overhead softbox- over the set.

Pictured at the top of this article are four different M.2 cards. The one on the left is a combo Wi-Fi and Bluetooth card. The next one to the right is a Sandisk SSD that uses the SATA bus. The next one is an Intel SSD that also uses SATA. The one on the right is a Samsung SSD that can use up to four PCI Express lanes.

Note the four- or five-digit numbers paired with each slot. These are actually codes to refer to the physical dimensions of each card; the first two digits specify the width in millimeters and the second two or three digits specify the length. Our Wi-Fi module is 16mm wide and 30mm long, or 1630. Two of our SSDs are 22mm wide and 80mm long, or 2280. The other SSD is 22mm wide and 42mm long, or 2242. All motherboard slots are 22mm in width, even the ones attached to 30mm-wide cards.

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Yes it is properly oriented. Even with two sheets of polarization film on top of one another, rotated 90 degrees to one another, looking at the modeling lamp through the two layers of film with my naked eye shows it to be blue similar to my first picture rather than blacked out. Also putting the film in front of the monitor still shows a blue tint is leaking through

3. The drinking glass in your image is multi-faceted and the reflections are coming back to the camera from various angles. If the above remedies do not work, try moving the lights. The angleof incidence is an important consideration in polarization.

So the specimen is laying flat in a black plastic container, I was planning on mounting a geared head to a lateral arm on top of my tripod, and placing this above the specimen. Placing a light above the specimen would end up causing shadows from the camera obstructing the light source.

6. In some cases lie product still life, etc., regular polarization, justthe filter on the camer, is sufficient. That kind of setup works well with an overhead softbox- over the set.

Does the entire image turn blue or just the specimen? I have never shot anything formaldehyde, I wonder if it has properties that cause spectral changes.

I mean from the photos above pointing at my display, it looks like both my CPL and the film arent polarizing 100% of the spectrum, but my sun glasses do.

Crosspolarizedlightgeology

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I was wondering if someone could help me understand what is going on with my attempts at cross polarization. I wanted to take some pictures with cross polarized light to remove specular reflections, and it is kind of working, but not exactly as expected. Instead of removing the reflections entirely, it seems to be doing it for only part of the spectrum, leaving the blue reflections behind.

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Where is that ring light placed- off the camer or where the lenses concentric to the flash tube- the traditional mounting around the lens? I have never done that with a polarizer on the flash unit.

I have these Sigma WR CPLs in mutiple sizes. When looking through them with my eye from the same direction the lens does, they all block most of the light from my monitor except for part of the blue spectrum. When looking through them the wrong way, it tints the color somewhat yellow or blue depending on the orientation of the filter, similar to what I would expect from a a Singh Ray Gold-N-Blue polarizer

Considering that this issue happens even when looking at the light straight on, I doubt the facets in the glass are causing this problem.

Where is that ring light placed- off the camer or where the lenses concentric to the flash tube- the traditional mounting around the lens? I have never done that with a polarizer on the flash unit.

Does the entire image turn blue or just the specimen? I have never shot anything formaldehyde, I wonder if it has properties that cause spectral changes.

2. Make certain that the CPL filter is somehow not reversed. The polarizing element in the filter is at the back, the side facing the camera.

As for your biological specimen- perhaps try to light it from above as in the diagram in my previous post. Generally, a CPL filter can negat reflection in water but can rend ir as "black" and negate any texture.

I have these Sigma WR CPLs in mutiple sizes. When looking through them with my eye from the same direction the lens does, they all block most of the light from my monitor except for part of the blue spectrum. When looking through them the wrong way, it tints the color somewhat yellow or blue depending on the orientation of the filter, similar to what I would expect from a a Singh Ray Gold-N-Blue polarizer

2. Make certain that the CPL filter is somehow not reversed. The polarizing element in the filter is at the back, the side facing the camera.

The diffuser will integrate the light projection angles and, combined with having a little distance between the flash head and the polarizing gel, may make the combination work more like a virtual point source and yield better polarization results.In your example, you are also working with various angles of reflection from the glass, making the math much more complicated as well.

When I was in vet school (a million years ago, it seems!) I was friends with the veterinary college photographer. His job was to photograph just about everything at the school, including close details of surgeries and dissections. For those, he always used a ring flash, specifically to get the shadowless light we know it gives; it was absolutely necessary, as a shadow could be confused for a structure, or contour, that wasn't actually there (of course, a ring-flash was also much more portable than a softbox, and easier to keep sterile). He may have used a CPL (I wasn't au fait with all the nuances of photography back then), but I'm pretty sure he didn't use polarising gels on his lights, or ring-flash. Must've just accepted specular reflections as they came.

I have used Rosco film with no color shift issues. My main polarizing screens for large bigger lighs were made by Bencher (no longer in business) and they are 25  years old- also no issues with strange color shifts.

And when I rotated the CPL until it seemed to have a maximum effect, the reflects were minimized but what remained was blue again:

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If OP has the time and flexibility, then I agree: an almost-on-axis softbox could be the way to go (means a very big sheet of polarising gel though). I've never heard of someone cutting a polarising gel and mounting it on a ring flash, if he can solve his spectral problem, it should be pretty useful.

I also tried taking a picture of reflections in a glass. I rotated the CPL until it didn't seem to be effecting the image and got reflections as expected:

Perhas try shot without any polarization and just with the on-camera filter. If the cor is correct, by the process of elimination, you may isolate the issue to the Rosco fim.

Yes it is properly oriented. Even with two sheets of polarization film on top of one another, rotated 90 degrees to one another, looking at the modeling lamp through the two layers of film with my naked eye shows it to be blue similar to my first picture rather than blacked out. Also putting the film in front of the monitor still shows a blue tint is leaking through

I mean from the photos above pointing at my display, it looks like both my CPL and the film arent polarizing 100% of the spectrum, but my sun glasses do.

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