DC means background defocus control. It is an extremely sharp lens. The background defocus control feature lets you control exactly how the out-of-focus areas behind your subject look.

Either of these 50mm lenses will give you the sharpness and low-light performance for which you're buying a D700. The only reason not to get the f/1.8 is because the f/1.4 is even better in low light, and if you're buying a $3,000 camera, you really ought to get the lens you really want.

This f/1.4 AF-D lens has slightly less distortion than the AF-S lens, but is not quite as sharp at f/1.4. Either are superbly sharp from f/2.8 on.

focallength是什么

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For about $120, the 50mm f/1.8D is among Nikon's sharpest and fastest focusing lenses, as well as their least expensive and lightest.

Any AI, AI-converted or AI-s lens works great on FX cameras, if you don't mind focusing by hand and losing program and shutter-priority exposure modes. You still get full color Matrix metering, Aperture-priority automation and full EXIF data with old manual lenses if you enter the lens data via the menus.

It is almost as sharp as the 16-35mm, but is much bigger and more expensive, has a more restricted zoom range, and there's no way to attach filters to its front for protection or filtration.

A prime or fixed focal length lens has a set focal length that can­not be changed. There are sev­er­al crit­i­cal dif­fer­ences between prime and zoom lens­es that you should know. Prime lens­es are gen­er­al­ly small­er, faster, and have bet­ter opti­cal char­ac­ter­is­tics than zoom lens­es. Despite this, pho­tog­ra­phers fre­quent­ly opt to shoot with zoom lens­es because of their con­ve­nience: a sin­gle lens can replace sev­er­al of the most pop­u­lar focal length prime lens­es. This is espe­cial­ly impor­tant when you’d pre­fer to pack light, such as dur­ing a trip or a hike.

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If you don't have a grand, try the excellent fixed 20mm f/2.8AF for about $500 brand new. It's your best deal for an ultrawide for the D700.

Wide-angle lens­es rep­re­sent the only prac­ti­cal method of cap­tur­ing a scene whose essen­tial ele­ments would oth­er­wise fall out­side the angle of view of a nor­mal lens. Con­ven­tion­al sub­jects of ultra wide-angle lens­es include archi­tec­ture (espe­cial­ly inte­ri­ors), land­scapes, seascapes, cityscapes, astropho­tog­ra­phy, and the entire domain of under­wa­ter pho­tog­ra­phy. Wide-angle lens­es are often used for pho­to­jour­nal­ism, street pho­tog­ra­phy, auto­mo­tive, some sports, and niche por­trai­ture.

The rela­tion­ship between the angle of view and a lens’s focal length is rough­ly inverse­ly pro­por­tion­al from 50mm and up on a full-frame cam­era. How­ev­er, as the focal length grows increas­ing­ly short­er than 50mm, that rough pro­por­tion­al­i­ty breaks down, and the rate of change in the angle of view slows. For exam­ple, the change in angle of view from 100mm to 50mm is more pro­nounced than the change from 28mm to 14mm.

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Lens­es with an angle of view of 35° or nar­row­er are con­sid­ered long-focus lens­es. This trans­lates to a focal length of about 70 mm and greater on full-frame cam­eras, and about 45 mm and longer on APS‑C cam­eras. It’s com­mon for pho­tog­ra­phers to (incor­rect­ly) refer to long-focus lens­es as “tele­pho­to” lens­es. A true tele­pho­to lens is one whose indi­cat­ed focal length is longer than the phys­i­cal length of its body. Due to this ubiq­ui­tous mis­use of the word, there exists a fur­ther clas­si­fi­ca­tion of long-focus lens­es whose angle of view is 10° or nar­row­er called “super tele­pho­to” lens­es (equal to or greater than 250 mm on full-frame cam­eras and 165 mm on APS‑C cam­eras). For­tu­nate­ly, super tele­pho­to lens­es are more often than not actu­al tele­pho­to designs. A great exam­ple is the Canon EF 800 mm f/5.6L IS USM Lens, which is only 461 mm long.

The focal length of a lens deter­mines its mag­ni­fy­ing pow­er, which is the appar­ent size of your sub­ject as pro­ject­ed onto the focal plane where your image sen­sor resides. A longer focal length cor­re­sponds to greater mag­ni­fy­ing pow­er and a larg­er ren­di­tion of your sub­ject, and vice ver­sa.

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Consider a midrange zoom if you only carry one lens, but never carry a midrange zoom if you're also carrying a wide and a tele zoom.

It’s impor­tant to rec­og­nize that the con­ve­nience and flex­i­bil­i­ty of zoom lens­es can inspire lazy pho­tog­ra­phy. The ease of chang­ing the angle of view encour­ages pho­tog­ra­phers to set­tle on com­po­si­tions that are good-enough, instead of seek­ing out bet­ter per­spec­tives and gain­ing a deep­er under­stand­ing of their sub­jects. What­ev­er lens you have, be it zoom or prime, it’s vital for the devel­op­ment of good pho­tog­ra­phy to con­sid­er your sub­ject from sev­er­al per­spec­tives by walk­ing towards, step­ping away, and cir­cling around them.

A zoom lens allows pho­tog­ra­phers to vary its effec­tive focal length through a spec­i­fied range, which alters the angle of view and mag­ni­fi­ca­tion of the image. Zoom lens­es are described by stat­ing their focal length range from the short­est to longest, such as 24–70 mm and 70–200 mm. The focal length range of a zoom lens direct­ly cor­re­lates to its zoom ratio, which is derived by divid­ing the longest focal length by the short­est. Both of the lens­es above have a zoom ratio of approx­i­mate­ly 2.9x, or 2.9:1. The zoom ratio also describes the amount of sub­ject mag­ni­fi­ca­tion a sin­gle lens can achieve across its avail­able focal length range.

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In pho­tog­ra­phy, the most essen­tial char­ac­ter­is­tic of a lens is its focal length, which is a mea­sure­ment that describes how much of the scene in front of you can be cap­tured by the cam­era. Tech­ni­cal­ly, the focal length is the dis­tance between the sec­ondary prin­ci­pal point (com­mon­ly and incor­rect­ly called the opti­cal cen­tre) and the rear focal point, where sub­jects at infin­i­ty come into focus. The focal length of a lens deter­mines two inter­re­lat­ed char­ac­ter­is­tics: mag­ni­fi­ca­tion and angle of view.

It’s impor­tant to under­stand that the degree to which the focal length mag­ni­fies an object does not depend on your cam­era or the size of its image sen­sor. Assum­ing a fixed sub­ject and sub­ject dis­tance, every lens of the same focal length will project an image of your sub­ject at the same scale. For exam­ple, if a 35 mm lens casts a 1.2 cm image of a per­son, that image will remain 1.2 cm high regard­less of your camera’s sen­sor for­mat. How­ev­er, on a Micro Four Thirds for­mat cam­era, the image of that per­son will fill the height of the frame, where­as it will occu­py half the height of a full-frame image sen­sor, and about one-third the height of a medi­um for­mat image sen­sor. As you progress from a small­er sen­sor to a larg­er one, the 1.2 cm high pro­jec­tion of the per­son remains unchanged, but it occu­pies a small­er part of the total frame. There­fore, although the absolute size of the image will stay con­stant across vary­ing image sen­sor for­mats, its size in pro­por­tion to each image sen­sor for­mat will be dif­fer­ent.

If you want to make the most of your FX camera's low-light ability, this $450 f/1.4 lens will smoke the $2,400 24-70mm f/2.8 VR you thought you wanted.

Sub­ject size is direct­ly pro­por­tion­al to the focal length of the lens. For exam­ple, if you pho­to­graph a soc­cer play­er kick­ing a ball, then switch to a lens that is twice the focal length of the first, the ren­dered size of every ele­ment in your image, from the per­son to the ball, will be dou­bled in size along the lin­ear dimen­sions.

Focaldistance vsfocal length

For instance, I bought my 17-35mm back for use on my F100 film camera in April 2000, and it's still Nikon's toughest and fastest ultrawide zoom today.

There are two types of wide-angle lens­es, rec­ti­lin­ear and fish­eye (some­times termed curvi­lin­ear). The vast major­i­ty of wide-angle lens—and oth­er focal lengths, too—are rec­ti­lin­ear. These types of lens­es are designed to ren­der the straight ele­ments found in a scene as straight lines on the pro­ject­ed image. Despite this, wide-angle rec­ti­lin­ear lens­es cause ren­dered objects to pro­gres­sive­ly stretch and enlarge as they approach the edges of the frame. In pho­tog­ra­phy, all fish­eye lens­es are ultra wide-angle lens­es that pro­duce images fea­tur­ing strong con­vex cur­va­ture. Fish­eye lens­es ren­der the straight ele­ments of a scene with a strong cur­va­ture about the cen­tre of the frame (the lens axis). The effect is sim­i­lar to look­ing through a door’s peep­hole, or the con­vex safe­ty mir­rors com­mon­ly placed at the blind cor­ners of indoor park­ing lots and hos­pi­tal cor­ri­dors. Only straight lines that inter­sect with the lens axis will be ren­dered as straight in images cap­tured by fish­eye lens­es.

The plastic 18-35mm is a fine lens. It was discontinued in 2006. I'd skip it simply because it's pretty plasticy compared to the others. It just doesn't feel right on a solid camera like the 20-35mm does. The 18-35mm was intended for lightweight film cameras, and works swell on the D700.

This new (2015) VR lens is for DSLRs only; it doesn't work on 35mm cameras. The best AF midrange zoom that does is the 24-70/2.8G, or 28-70/2.8 AF-S for even older 35mm AF cameras.

For a tele, pros use the 70-200mm VR II. Less sucessful pros use any of the older versions, all of which are also excellent.

In gen­er­al, a short focal length—or short focus, or “wide-angle”—lens is one whose angle of view is 65° or greater. Recall from above that angle of view is deter­mined by both focal length and image sen­sor size, which means that what qual­i­fies as “short” is pred­i­cat­ed upon a camera’s image sen­sor for­mat. There­fore, on full-frame cam­eras, the thresh­old for wide-angle lens­es is 35 mm or less, and on APS‑C cam­eras, it’s 23 mm or less. Lens­es with an angle of view of 85° or greater are called “ultra wide-angle,” which is about 24 mm or less on full-frame and 16mm or less on APS‑C cam­eras.

Some manual lenses are sharper than their AF counterparts, for instance, the 80-200mm f/4.5n AI is the sharpest tele zoom I've tested, if you worry about lens sharpness. I paid $150 for mine used.

The professional 17-35mm AFS from 1999 is heavier, faster, and tougher, but not quite as sharp if you count every pixel.

The angle of view describes the breadth, or how much, of a scene is cap­tured by the lens and pro­ject­ed onto your camera’s image sen­sor. It’s expressed in degrees of arc and mea­sured diag­o­nal­ly along the image sen­sor. Thus, the angle of view of any lens of a giv­en focal length will change depend­ing on the size of the cam­er­a’s image sen­sor. For exam­ple, a 50 mm lens has a wide angle of view on a medi­um for­mat cam­era, a nor­mal angle of view on a full-frame cam­era, a nar­row­er angle of view on an APS‑C cam­era, and a nar­row angle of view on a Micro Four-Thirds cam­era.

Focal lengthcamera

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The 200mm micro lets you stand far enough away so that you can render your subjects in the correct perspective, not annoy living specimens and not get in the way of your own lighting.

For photos of family and friends in any light without flash, the Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF-S is unbeaten. It's what on my D3 most of the time when I'm away from my studio.

FOV tofocal length

Neither of the 28-80 G and 28-200 G are made anymore, which is why Nikon isn't pushing them. Each is a cheap plastic lens likely to break off a heavy FX camera if you grab it by the lens, but each has stellar performance.

A true zoom lens, known as a par­fo­cal lens, main­tains a set focus dis­tance across its entire focal length range. In the days before dig­i­tal photography—before elec­tron­ic aut­o­fo­cus, even—it was com­mon prac­tice to focus a zoom lens at its longest focal length before tak­ing the pic­ture at the desired (if dif­fer­ent) focal length. This tech­nique is no longer pos­si­ble because con­tem­po­rary vari­able focal length lens­es designed for pho­tog­ra­phy are almost exclu­sive­ly var­i­fo­cal lens­es, which do not main­tain set focus across their zoom range. In prac­tice, most pho­tog­ra­phers do not know the dif­fer­ence because the aut­o­fo­cus algo­rithms in their cam­eras com­pen­sate for the slight vari­a­tions.

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Forget 55mm and 60mm macro lenses for dedicated macro work. You have to get so close that you annoy your subject and get in the way of your own light. They were for copying documents and general use, but now that we have flatbed scanners, any $50 scanner does a better job.

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Buy the best and you'll make money, and better, all these lenses are still Nikon's state-of-the-art for Nikon FX cameras.

For any giv­en cam­era sys­tem, nor­mal lens­es are gen­er­al­ly the “fastest” avail­able. Adjec­tives such as “fast” and “slow” always describe lens speed, which refers to a lens’ max­i­mum aper­ture open­ing. For instance, a lens with a ƒ/2 or larg­er aper­ture is gen­er­al­ly con­sid­ered fast; a lens with a ƒ/5.6 or small­er aper­ture is deemed to be slow. How is speed rel­e­vant to aper­ture? Recall the reci­procity law: larg­er aper­tures per­mit more light into the cam­era, there­by allow­ing you to use faster shut­ter speeds, and vice ver­sa.

Focal lengthformula

It's big, expensive and good. It costs twice as much as the 105mm VR, but if you want it, don't deny yourself. It costs a lot less than you're throwing away on digital cameras, in fact, lenses like this only go up in value with time. Unlike a DSLR, buying a lens like this is an investment, not an expenditure.

It makes no sense to buy a $3,000 digital camera like the D700, which will be worth only $1,400 in three years, and cheap-out on lenses, which retain their value. Any lens you buy today ought to work great on your next camera, and the next. I bought my 17-35mm back in 2000 when it came out for use on film, and it's still the best lens going for the D700. Money spent on lenses is a much better than spending it on cameras.

I use the 28-200 G if I want to cover all focal lengths very sharply and have decent macro, but the AF of the 28-200 G isn't that fast.

focallength中文

The con­stant angle of view of a prime lens forces this type of experimentation—“zooming with your feet”—because the oth­er options are either bad pic­tures or no pic­tures. Fur­ther­more, restrict­ing your­self to a sin­gle focal length for an extend­ed peri­od of time acquaints you to its angle of view and allows you to visu­al­ize a com­po­si­tion before rais­ing the cam­era to your face.

If you already own DX lenses, FX cameras will automatically degrade themselves only to use the center part of their sensors and viewfinders, but you'll quickly tire of them and buy real FX lenses anyway.

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A “nor­mal” lens is defined as one whose focal length is equal to the approx­i­mate diag­o­nal length of a camera’s image sen­sor. In prac­tice, such lens­es tend to fall into a range of slight­ly longer focal lengths that are claimed to pos­sess an angle of view com­pa­ra­ble to that of the human eye’s cone of visu­al atten­tion, which is about 55°.

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For instance, on full-frame cam­eras, whose image sen­sors mea­sure 36×24 mm, the diag­o­nal length is approx­i­mate­ly 43 mm, and yet, the 50 mm lens is con­ven­tion­al­ly con­sid­ered nor­mal. On APS‑C cam­eras (24 × 16 mm), whose diag­o­nal spans about 28 mm, a 35 mm focal length is regard­ed as nor­mal pri­mar­i­ly because its angle of view is sim­i­lar to the 50 mm lens on the full-frame for­mat. There­fore, nor­mal focal lengths will dif­fer as a func­tion of the camera’s image sen­sor size. In fact, as you con­tin­ue read­ing, keep in mind that descrip­tive terms such as “ultra-wide,” “short,” “long,” et cetera, implic­it­ly refer to the angle of view of a lens.

35mm equivalentfocal length

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Beyond por­trai­ture, long-focus lens­es are use­ful for iso­lat­ing sub­jects in busy and crowd­ed envi­ron­ments. Pho­to­jour­nal­ists, wed­ding, and sports pho­tog­ra­phers exploit this abil­i­ty reg­u­lar­ly. Due to their mag­ni­fy­ing pow­er, super tele­pho­to lens­es are a main­stay for wildlife and nature pho­tog­ra­phers. Last­ly, long-focus lens­es are fre­quent­ly used by land­scape pho­tog­ra­phers to cap­ture dis­tant vis­tas or to iso­late a fea­ture from its sur­round­ings.

Nikon no longer makes any good, reasonably priced midrange FX zooms. Nikon discontinued them all, whoops! I'll cover this below.

If you’re into math—and who isn’t?—the gen­er­al for­mu­la for cal­cu­lat­ing the angle of view when you know the focal length and the sen­sor size is:

Due to their abil­i­ty to mag­ni­fy dis­tance objects, long-focus lens­es present pho­tog­ra­phers with many uses. They are almost uni­ver­sal­ly laud­ed for por­trai­ture because their nar­row angle of view allows for a high­er mag­ni­fi­ca­tion of the sub­ject from con­ven­tion­al­ly more pleas­ing per­spec­tives. As a rule of thumb, a desir­able focal length for a por­trait lens starts at twice the nor­mal focal length for the cam­era sys­tem (about 85 mm for full-frame and 56 mm for APS‑C).

The only differences are that the focus ring turns during AF, so you have to keep your fingers clear, and that you have to move a switch on the camera to switch between auto and manual focus.

It's very sharp and covers just about every focal length you'd need, and it focuses close enough to replace a macro lens.

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The 20-35mm was Nikon's first ultra-wide zoom, made from 1993-2001 before the 17-35mm. It is an excellent. professional lens which sold for about $1,800 in 1993. Today, for about $600 used, it's a steal. I sometimes use one when I don't feel like lugging around the larger 17-35mm or behemoth 14-24mm. Of course the fixed 20mm f/2.8AF still weighs less and costs less, brand new, and is at least as good optically.

In all but the crummiest light, few people will have any reason not to love the 50mm f/1.8D, which costs less than half as much.

Focal length

For any serious macro work, you want at least a 105mm macro lens. Nikon calls these lenses "Micro," but it's all the same thing.

As you have learned in the sec­tion on aper­tures and f‑numbers, “an increase in focal length decreas­es the inten­si­ty of light reach­ing the image sen­sor.” This rela­tion­ship is most obvi­ous in zoom lens­es. A “vari­able” aper­ture zoom lens is a lens whose max­i­mum aper­ture becomes small­er with increased focal length. These types of zoom lens­es are sim­ple to spot because they list a max­i­mum aper­ture range instead of a sin­gle num­ber. The range spec­i­fies the max­i­mum aper­ture for the short­est and longest focal lengths of the zoom range. Vari­able aper­ture lens­es are the most com­mon type of zoom lens. A con­stant aper­ture or “fixed” aper­ture zoom lens is one whose max­i­mum aper­ture remains con­stant across the entire zoom range. Fixed aper­ture lens­es are typ­i­cal­ly more mas­sive and more expen­sive than their vari­able aper­ture coun­ter­parts. They are also more straight­for­ward to work with when prac­tic­ing man­u­al expo­sure at the max­i­mum aper­ture since no com­pen­sa­tion for lost light is required dur­ing zoom­ing.

In pho­tog­ra­phy, the term macro refers to extreme close-ups. Macro lens­es are nor­mal to long-focus lens­es capa­ble of focus­ing on extreme­ly close sub­jects, there­by ren­der­ing large repro­duc­tions. The mag­ni­fi­ca­tion ratio or mag­ni­fi­ca­tion fac­tor is the size of the sub­ject pro­ject­ed onto the image sen­sor in com­par­i­son to its actu­al size. A macro lens’ mag­ni­fi­ca­tion ratio is cal­cu­lat­ed at its clos­est focus­ing dis­tance. A true macro lens is capa­ble of achiev­ing a mag­ni­fi­ca­tion ratio of 1:1 or high­er. Lens­es with mag­ni­fi­ca­tion ratios from 2:1 to 10:1 are called super macro. Ratios over 10:1 cross over into the field of microscopy. When shop­ping for a macro lens, keep in mind that in the con­text of kit lens­es and point-and-shoot cam­eras, some man­u­fac­tur­ers use the macro moniker as mar­ket­ing short­hand for “close-up pho­tog­ra­phy.” These prod­ucts do not achieve 1:1 mag­ni­fi­ca­tion ratios. When in doubt, check the tech­ni­cal spec­i­fi­ca­tions.

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