Body tube microscopefunction

I finally found a glue that I like. It takes 24 hours to harden all the way. It is from Joanne’s and called, of all things, Glass and Bead Glue.

It seems I got this link from another thread on WC. It is a link that you can put what you want to glue together and you will get a recomendation on what to use. . . . I love the internet!

Fine adjustment knobmicroscopefunction

I was given a source for industrial UV glues(was able to procure some free samples to play with, various viscositys and cure times) — had to put things out on the porch in the sunlight to cure, even purchased a small UV light for curing fake nails from a beauty supply place. So far the UV glues seem to have the best bond but it’s definitely a finicky substance, you have to glue it and cure it quickly otherwise it never cures (highly annoying!).

Michelle Use to play on this forum, Back, New Mediums to explore. Dementia Caretaker struggling to be a real person again! Michelle Bousky Arts

Jen – While it may be a little messy, epoxy should do the trick. Very strong bond, waterproof and available in a variety of forms, cure rates, etc… You can get it from water thin to very thick. Cure rates from 1 minute, to 5 minutes to 30 minutes to 2 hours. And if you are careful mixing it (it is two parts) you are guaranteed it will cure.

Revolving nosepiecemicroscopefunction

A really good glue for bonding glass & metal is 2-ton epoxy. It is important to give the surface a little ‘tooth’ to get a good bond. If you can etch or sand the the materials where they are to contact, you will get the best results.

clear siliconw should work for the eye, just clean real well with alcohol first. For glass to glass the uv light and glue is the only thing that will hold up to time. I’ve used it for resotations to vintage glass lamps and windows for about 18 years now and it still holds. Edie

Body tube on microscopelabeled

Hi all! I’ve been playing with various types of glues to bond glass and metal together as well as glass to glass. I’m looking for suggestions from anyone else that’s played with this stuff.

I am new to lampworking but not to fusing. I have used E900 for metal to glass with good success. (Pin & earring backs to glass) I have also used silicone for glass to glass. (Mirrors and clock faces) Both could quality as “glopy” and take some time to set, particularly the silicone, but they did what I needed at the time. The epoxy I tried did not hold. Could be the type of epoxy or my mixing skills. Anyone know what large jewelry manufacturers use?

Objective lensmicroscopefunction

Hi Jen. I use E6000 (thick, yes!), to glue pin backs to the back of my painted, stained glass pins. I’ve never had one come apart in 7 years & I’m still wearing some of my original designs. I’ve also used it to glue glass pieces to base metal french barrettes, holds just fine. Now, I have pulled (intentionally) a pin back off of a piece of glass, though it’s not an easy thing to do. I’ve just tried GS Hypo Cement (think that’s what it’s called), didn’t like it, it was like water & I stuck my fingers together. Still have it stuck on one of my fingers & it was a week & a half ago. (also have a glob of E6000 that’s been stuck to my breakfast bar for over a year-it’s not going anywhere & funny, no one knows how it got there-teenagers!).

A testimonial from a gentleman that glued the porcelain cap back onto his bridge, indicates it would fit glass to metal needs.

Body tube on microscopediagram

I’ve played with “glass glues” found in the local hardware store and craft stores, some are a variant of super glue — very brittle and not always completly secure, others are thick and goopy kind of like E900 (I think that’s the name) — these tend to be too thick and again not always completely secure. I’ve also used the fake stained glass paint (gallery glass by plaid) as a glue — found a reference to using it as a glue in a magazine once but found that if it’s exposed to water or moisture it doesn’t work.

Body tube on microscopeparts

I’m using it for the same application as Margaret – to attach sterling bails (a la Jinx) to end-of-mandrel pendants. I’ve had some hanging here for a little over a month now and they seem to be holding just fine!

I just started playing with pendant-style beads that are done on the end of a mandrel… got too much inspiration from a beautiful floral pendant Kim Miles had on at the Gathering… I went to Ace, got a clear drying, 15 min-harden, two-part epoxy and tried it on three pieces. Don’t have pics yet, sorry… but it seems to have done the trick. I gave two to friends to test drive and I’ve been tuggin on one since Thursday, and no problems with any so far- feels like a very firm hold.

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It seems I got this link from another thread on WC. It is a link that you can put what you want to glue together and you will get a recomendation on what to use. . . . I love the internet!

I use the quick drying, 2-Part Epoxy (the one in the double injection syringes). I apply it to the surface (which has to be clean), then let it “set-up” for a minute or two, then put the second piece. I found its not as messy if you let the glue cure a bit before assembly. It’s easier to work with when its tacky.

How to usebody tube on microscope

Thanks for all the replies gang! Sounds like the 2-part epoxy’s are something worth looking into, it’s the only thing I haven’t tried.

I made a stained glass mobile of fish, the eyes on them are either small glass nuggets or some small end of mandrel beads that I made. I’ve had to re-glue them a dozen times! The mobile will just be hanging in my booth at a show and plop! There goes an eye! Very annoying! Because it’s a black glass eye on an opaque orange glass fish I know the UV glue isn’t going to work.

Michelle Use to play on this forum, Back, New Mediums to explore. Dementia Caretaker struggling to be a real person again! Michelle Bousky Arts

I just started playing with pendant-style beads that are done on the end of a mandrel… got too much inspiration from a beautiful floral pendant Kim Miles had on at the Gathering… I went to Ace, got a clear drying, 15 min-harden, two-part epoxy and tried it on three pieces. Don’t have pics yet, sorry… but it seems to have done the trick. I gave two to friends to test drive and I’ve been tuggin on one since Thursday, and no problems with any so far- feels like a very firm hold.

For glass and metal, where the glass is not transparent, so no uv light can get through, the uv light-cured glue won’t work. I tried rear-view-mirror glue and it seems to work. I rough-up the metal a little with emory cloth so the glue can find grooves to stick to. I also rough-up the glass a little although that is likely not necessary. The glue is available in car parts stores and isn’t a lot. I save stuff that needs gluing until I have a bunch since one of the vials is glass and you break the glass to get the stuff out…obviously you can’t close it up again. The directions on the package say if you mess-up, don’t try to remove the review mirror part or you will crack the glass. I think that means that the “glue to glass” bond is at least as strong as the “glass to glass bond”. Anyway, I haven’t had any come loose…yet…knock-on-wood. I guess I consider Murphy an optimist and I want to keep the Druid Tree Gods happy. jim