This camera has two "mini" (SDR/HDR) Camera Link connectors. Base, Medium and Full configurations are supported. The camera also supports Power over Camera Link so that an additional power cable is not needed. Or, a 6-pin power connector can be used instead. The Camera Link interface includes four configurable camera inputs and one configurable camera output. Because this camera is Camera Link compliant, there are many third party frame grabbers and software applications that are compatible.

I believe some of these have a neon bulb in parallel with the switch. This means they draw a small amount of current through any light-bulb the switch controls - however this is too small a current to produce any light in the light-bulb.

From what I've seen, they pass a small current through the switch (and light), and that current is sufficient to power the illuminated switch light.

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For switch lamps lit in the OFF position, a switch lamp in series would allow a trickle of current through the actual load, causing a dim glow in a fixture or some current in a motor. This seems wrong.

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They DO pass current through the switch and light at all times - just a few mA. The indicator is wired in parallel to the switch contacts. For most types of bulbs its not enough for the light to turn on.

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Old thread but just ran into the same thing on a house upgrade. The connected load must be a resistive load. Meaning either it's a light bulb, table lamp plugged into the outlet that's switched, etc.. from the load side of the switch, going to the load itself where it then makes contact with a neutral wire. This completes the circuit a d initiates the glow on the switch with the switch in the OFF position. I had 54 VAC coming to my light with no light bulb inserted into the socket. Illuminated decora was not lit in the OFF position. Screwed in the light bulb and whalah. Switch illuminated. Like the previous person said, it does draw a minor amount of current. To me, this is dangerous and shouldn't be offered to standard applications. The average homeowner changing their light fixtures will be in for a surprise when they think the light switch is off. And yes, people change it without turning the breaker off. This is the first switch I have run into that uses the connected load to operate. And without a connected load, the switch will NOT illuminate. As to be clear, the switch I used isn't a cheap piece of junk. I used a Leviton purchased from Lowes that cost over $10. Personally I think these should be pulled from the shelves until they make a version that adds a neutral for it. And no, sorry to say it does not use the ground that's connected to it to illuminate it. That would be dangerous and cause multiple issues. Yes, neutral and ground are connected at first means of disconnect but the ground is for overcurrent or a lost neutral issue. It is not a normal current carrying conductor.

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This camera is warranted by the manufacturer to be free from defects in materials and workmanship under normal use for a period of three (3) years from the date of original factory manufacture.

There are some illuminated switches that operate without a neutral. For a lamp that is lit when the switch is ON, I can envision a circuit diagram that has the switch lamp in series with the switched circuit. But this would create significant additional resistance in the current flowing through the line to the main load. If the switch is parallel to the line, virtually no current should flow since the resistance to the lamp is so much higher than the completed switch circuit.

At 80% vacuum, the relative vacuum can be calculated in the same way (5.98 - 29.92 = - 23.94 in Hg gauge). Figure 1. Absolute Vacuum (in Hg) with Vacuum %.

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However with modern LED light bulbs these types of switches (as well as dimmers, and home automation switches) that dont use the neutral can cause the LED bulb to turn on enough to be noticable or flicker.

I have never looked at a design schematic but do know this. I have seen them fail and on the load side. I had 60 VAC on the load side when off and 120 VAC when on. Removed the switch and the continuity between states show rock solid, 0 ohms off and infinite ohms with a standard Fluke meter. Of course I didn't meg the thing for I don't own an insulator tester or megger, work provides them and for far more important failures. The LED kitchen lights it provided power to was either dim or fully illuminated. I won't deal with a Light Emitting Diode failure at that level, fail on, and just went to Menards and bought a swith without illumantion.

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Right off the bat I see that no one can answer your question within the first two or three answers or whatever, and I am here only because I'm looking to see why my illuminating light switch won't illuminate, but the answer to your question is because the switch is grounded. Ground = neutral. If you open up a light switch and do not see a neutral wire then how can you test it to see how many volts are coming through the line? - you use the ground wire as a neutral or if it's in a EMT conduit box then you use the box as the ground or neutral. Of everything I know my own question is still not being answered and that is why won't my illuminating switches illuminate?

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