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Serious basketball photographers switch between two camera bodies—one with a 16–35mm for close-up action, and one with a 70–200mm lens. The best strategy for sports is to move along the sidelines with the action, but this isn’t always possible.

If the purpose of your travel is to see wildlife, you should follow the advice above. Likewise, if you’re planning an adventurous vacation, you might want to consider an action camera.

Wirecutter is the product recommendation service from The New York Times. Our journalists combine independent research with (occasionally) over-the-top testing so you can make quick and confident buying decisions. Whether it’s finding great products or discovering helpful advice, we’ll help you get it right (the first time).

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If you’re sticking with a point-and-shoot, a superzoom that can reach 600mm should do. The wide-angle end of the zoom range doesn’t matter as much, though it could come in handy if you want to capture a murmuration of starlings at sunset or a herd of giraffes as they pass by.

The short answer is yes. Lenses with longer focal lengths—especially zooms—are bigger, heavier, and often produce softer images than lenses with more modest focal lengths and zoom ranges. In order to keep lens size and weight down, apertures become narrower, meaning you have to use slower shutter speeds to get clear images.

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And beyond a certain point, even the impressive image stabilization systems in modern lenses and camera bodies can’t prevent blurry photos due to camera shake, which means you need to invest in a tripod to get sharp results.

The wider lens will let you get street scenes and portraits, while the longer lens will let you capture architectural details or isolate subjects that you aren’t able to get very close to in a tourist setting.

APS-C sensors, like the one used in our upgrade pick mirrorless camera, are in-between Four Thirds and full-frame with a crop factor of 1.5, so Fujifilm’s 16–80mm kit lens would be like a 24–120mm.

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The Sony RX100 VII is the best choice for people who want a compact camera that produces significantly better photos and video than their smartphone.

Why Clean a Rifle Scope? When you are using a scope, let's be honest you are gonna be outside and the outside world is full of grit, grime, dust, mud and strange little fibers. There's a lot of stuff out there and it's going to get on your scope. Most scopes are built to withstand the outside world pretty well, unfortunately, spending so much time cleaning the gun that we tend to forget about the scope. If you spend any time outdoors you know how important it is to be able to see things clearly.  The best way to clean your rifle scope properly It's not a secret that if a cleaning process is not done right you can damage your rifle. When it comes to cleaning guns one of our opinions is that you need to use gun products. We are big believers than it is better to use products that were specifically designed for firearms. If your previous cleaning tools were usually limited to toilet paper and paintbrushes you've searched for yourself it will not have a very good effect. Remember: a rifle is a machine and it is needed to be properly lubricated and cared for. So, what can we as civilian shooters can do when we have high-dollar optics? The first thing you'll need is a kit which is a really important and awesome device. You'll also need a cleaning cloth, slid cleaning pin with a dusting brush (microfiber pen), and a cleaning spray.  Now, let's go through the process. Most people don't take the scope off when they clean a rifle. It's just too darn much trouble to have re zero it every time. If you are going to leave the scope on when you're cleaning your rifle put the flip covers on. The cleaning brushes pop off a tiny bit of mist when they come out of the bore and that mist is not friendly for your lenses. It can even leave a greasy film behind that you also have to clean off.  But if it has been a rainy nasty range trip and the optic is actually wet, make sure the caps are open when you store it, and that way you can give the lenses time to dry out. The retaining rings might have a tendency to rust if you trap moisture in and keep these caps closed. So, leave them open, let the rifle get some air, and let those lenses dry out before you put it away. Dusting Dust can cut down the clarity, light transmission, and even the field of view. A little dirt and dust on your lens aren't going to do any physical damage and you can generally let it sit there until it becomes noticeable. Then you try to clean lenses improperly and the dirt becomes a dangerous weapon.  Step one, point the optical surface down and blow, just remember not to spray it and the dust will have a good chance to fall right off. We recommend that you start cleaning your rifle from the top because if there is any dust at the bottom, it's going to blow it up against the lenses. Get off the bulk with the blower and remove the little pieces that might have stuck with a brush. It’s also vital to avoid spraying the cleaner directly onto the lens.Nevertheless, you have a strong, high-quality glass, do not press hard on it! Brushing If you've ever cleaned a camera lens, this process is going to seem mighty familiar. You might even have one of those nifty lens cleaning brush pens lying around. The paintbrush is good for getting into nooks and crannies on your turrets and anywhere that dust has a tendency to cake up on the outside of the optic but make sure it is well marked and that is never ever used on the lenses of your scope.   By the way, our preference for general cleaning of the lenses themselves is a lens pen that you can get at any supply store. The key thing here is that the bristle brush is really nice. Flip it a couple of times before you use it to knock anything off. Knockout with light strokes anything that's hanging out in there. Go from the center outward because the glass in the center of your optic is usually the most important. This method is a little more forgiving than dusting side to side all the way down. That will do 90% of your lens cleaning. It's a good idea to get some of that dust out of the side of the glass. Don't try to force it. Remember, we don't want to scratch anything! If you are having trouble with lint bristles you can retract the bristles part away to shorten them up.  Microfiber Cloth and Smudge Removal Now we can deal with lovely fingerprints and mascara marks. When you buy a scope there's going to be a little microfiber cloth included in the packaging most times. It's the same when you buy a camera, lens or eyeglasses. Microfiber cloth is built for this kind of work. Check to make sure your cloth hasn't got wet, hasn't touched solvents, and isn't covered in dirt. If you are trying to get into any tough to reach crevices and can't quite fit you can wrap your cloth around the q-tip and use that to help the rich.  The other reason we recommend the lens pens is because on the opposite side you have this nifty little microfiber cloth that has a cleaning compound embedded in it. If you have already had such a pen, make sure you've knocked all the grit out, take the microfiber pad and try to eliminate minor smudges and fingerprints blotches from the lens. Be very careful and gentle! Use it with a little pressure because you can possibly scratch the lense.   Why don't we recommend doing it with a piece of cloth? When the idea to take a t-shirt and wipe a lens with it comes to your mind, imagine how much it was picking up grit, sweat, salts. Stop yourself from digging it into your scope.  Once you've finished that, take a look and see what the stuff you have on your lenses. If it is just water spots, you can probably go grab some distilled water, take a cotton ball and get most of those spots off it. If you have fingerprints on your lenses alcohol and water may not be the better option, it's time to step up to a bit higher level solvent and use a gun cleaning oil. If you want to get absolutely everything off those lenses the first thing you're gonna do is to take some acetone on a cotton swab then go around the outside edge of the lens where the lens meets the metal housing. Take a couple of passes until you get that clean. Afterward, take the cotton ball and some acetone and repeat the circular movements getting the water or oil spots off the middle. As you are trying to pick it up and get it off but not to grind it in, so be careful.  Cleaning the Scope body In honesty, cleaning the outside of the body isn't going to improve the performance. However, it's definitely good to clean any grime o ff the turrets just to keep your scope in a good condition. We have two pieces of advice for you here: 1. Don't use anything that has cleaning solvents because such liquid can leak at the joints and start to break down your o-rings.  2. Don't use the same brush on the turrets that you'd use on the lens. The lens takes priority! On the turrets, we're going to go about the things the same way worked on the lenses. Brush first, brush gently and try to make sure that you are brushing away from many openings.

If you’re planning to tour a city, the best thing to do is to pair a general-purpose lens, such as a 24–70mm zoom, with a 70–200mm lens for a little extra reach when needed.

Auto-racing, surfing, and field-based sports require the most reach, and for those you can likely get away with a lens that reaches out to either 300mm or 400mm.

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What is focal length? Expressed in millimeters, focal length is what determines the perspective of your camera lens. The lower the focal length number, the wider of a view you see. The higher the number, the closer the subject appears.

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What is zoom? For a zoom lens (that is, one that can change focal length by rotating the barrel), the difference between the minimum and maximum focal length is what determines its zoom ratio. This is usually expressed as 5x, 10x, 30x, and so on. If your lens is 24mm (or equivalent) on the wide end, a 5x zoom would mean it’s 120mm on the long end.

Why Clean a Rifle Scope? When you are using a scope, let's be honest you are gonna be outside and the outside world is full of grit, grime, dust, mud and strange little fibers. There's a lot of stuff out there and it's going to get on your scope. Most scopes are built to withstand the outside world pretty well, unfortunately, spending so much time cleaning the gun that we tend to forget about the scope. If you spend any time outdoors you know how important it is to be able to see things clearly.  The best way to clean your rifle scope properly It's not a secret that if a cleaning process is not done right you can damage your rifle. When it comes to cleaning guns one of our opinions is that you need to use gun products. We are big believers than it is better to use products that were specifically designed for firearms. If your previous cleaning tools were usually limited to toilet paper and paintbrushes you've searched for yourself it will not have a very good effect. Remember: a rifle is a machine and it is needed to be properly lubricated and cared for. So, what can we as civilian shooters can do when we have high-dollar optics? The first thing you'll need is a kit which is a really important and awesome device. You'll also need a cleaning cloth, slid cleaning pin with a dusting brush (microfiber pen), and a cleaning spray.  Now, let's go through the process. Most people don't take the scope off when they clean a rifle. It's just too darn much trouble to have re zero it every time. If you are going to leave the scope on when you're cleaning your rifle put the flip covers on. The cleaning brushes pop off a tiny bit of mist when they come out of the bore and that mist is not friendly for your lenses. It can even leave a greasy film behind that you also have to clean off.  But if it has been a rainy nasty range trip and the optic is actually wet, make sure the caps are open when you store it, and that way you can give the lenses time to dry out. The retaining rings might have a tendency to rust if you trap moisture in and keep these caps closed. So, leave them open, let the rifle get some air, and let those lenses dry out before you put it away. Dusting Dust can cut down the clarity, light transmission, and even the field of view. A little dirt and dust on your lens aren't going to do any physical damage and you can generally let it sit there until it becomes noticeable. Then you try to clean lenses improperly and the dirt becomes a dangerous weapon.  Step one, point the optical surface down and blow, just remember not to spray it and the dust will have a good chance to fall right off. We recommend that you start cleaning your rifle from the top because if there is any dust at the bottom, it's going to blow it up against the lenses. Get off the bulk with the blower and remove the little pieces that might have stuck with a brush. It’s also vital to avoid spraying the cleaner directly onto the lens.Nevertheless, you have a strong, high-quality glass, do not press hard on it! Brushing If you've ever cleaned a camera lens, this process is going to seem mighty familiar. You might even have one of those nifty lens cleaning brush pens lying around. The paintbrush is good for getting into nooks and crannies on your turrets and anywhere that dust has a tendency to cake up on the outside of the optic but make sure it is well marked and that is never ever used on the lenses of your scope.   By the way, our preference for general cleaning of the lenses themselves is a lens pen that you can get at any supply store. The key thing here is that the bristle brush is really nice. Flip it a couple of times before you use it to knock anything off. Knockout with light strokes anything that's hanging out in there. Go from the center outward because the glass in the center of your optic is usually the most important. This method is a little more forgiving than dusting side to side all the way down. That will do 90% of your lens cleaning. It's a good idea to get some of that dust out of the side of the glass. Don't try to force it. Remember, we don't want to scratch anything! If you are having trouble with lint bristles you can retract the bristles part away to shorten them up.  Microfiber Cloth and Smudge Removal Now we can deal with lovely fingerprints and mascara marks. When you buy a scope there's going to be a little microfiber cloth included in the packaging most times. It's the same when you buy a camera, lens or eyeglasses. Microfiber cloth is built for this kind of work. Check to make sure your cloth hasn't got wet, hasn't touched solvents, and isn't covered in dirt. If you are trying to get into any tough to reach crevices and can't quite fit you can wrap your cloth around the q-tip and use that to help the rich.  The other reason we recommend the lens pens is because on the opposite side you have this nifty little microfiber cloth that has a cleaning compound embedded in it. If you have already had such a pen, make sure you've knocked all the grit out, take the microfiber pad and try to eliminate minor smudges and fingerprints blotches from the lens. Be very careful and gentle! Use it with a little pressure because you can possibly scratch the lense.   Why don't we recommend doing it with a piece of cloth? When the idea to take a t-shirt and wipe a lens with it comes to your mind, imagine how much it was picking up grit, sweat, salts. Stop yourself from digging it into your scope.  Once you've finished that, take a look and see what the stuff you have on your lenses. If it is just water spots, you can probably go grab some distilled water, take a cotton ball and get most of those spots off it. If you have fingerprints on your lenses alcohol and water may not be the better option, it's time to step up to a bit higher level solvent and use a gun cleaning oil. If you want to get absolutely everything off those lenses the first thing you're gonna do is to take some acetone on a cotton swab then go around the outside edge of the lens where the lens meets the metal housing. Take a couple of passes until you get that clean. Afterward, take the cotton ball and some acetone and repeat the circular movements getting the water or oil spots off the middle. As you are trying to pick it up and get it off but not to grind it in, so be careful.  Cleaning the Scope body In honesty, cleaning the outside of the body isn't going to improve the performance. However, it's definitely good to clean any grime o ff the turrets just to keep your scope in a good condition. We have two pieces of advice for you here: 1. Don't use anything that has cleaning solvents because such liquid can leak at the joints and start to break down your o-rings.  2. Don't use the same brush on the turrets that you'd use on the lens. The lens takes priority! On the turrets, we're going to go about the things the same way worked on the lenses. Brush first, brush gently and try to make sure that you are brushing away from many openings.

What is crop factor? In general, people talk about focal lengths in relation to full-frame sensors, which are the same size as 35mm film. But digital cameras have sensors of various other sizes, and most are smaller than full-frame. A smaller sensor effectively crops the image produced by a lens, bringing the subject closer.

You need more zoom for this type of photography than most others. Whenever you take photos of animals in the wild, you should be respectful of their space and avoid impacting their habitat.

For example, the Four Thirds sensor used in our favorite mirrorless camera has a crop factor of 2. This means that you can multiply the focal length of lenses used on that camera by 2 to get the full-frame equivalent, so the Olympus camera’s 12–40mm zoom lens produces the same perspective as a 24–80mm zoom on a full-frame camera.

Sometimes wider is better—like when you’re trying to get a whole house into a picture or show off the details of a particularly stunning kitchen.

Canon telephotolensfor wildlife

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You usually don’t need as much zoom for sports as you do for wildlife, since you can safely get closer to the action, though there are exceptions.

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Bird photography can be difficult. We spoke with photographers to find the best strategies and resources for making beautiful photos.

The meaning of FRESNEL LENS is a lens that has a surface consisting of a concentric series of simple lens sections so that a thin lens with a short focal ...

Spot size calculator ; 6.5 mm. Spot size at sensor ; 400 mm. Distance to focus point ; 26.7 mm. Spot size at focus point.

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If you have an APS-C camera and only want to carry one lens, you can use an 18–200mm zoom, which gives you a full-frame-equivalent range of 24–300mm.

For most court-based sports, which have a smaller play area, you can get away with a 200mm for shots of the far end of the court. But if the action moves closer, you’ll want something wider.

Here’s a quick overview of what focal length is, how it relates to zoom, and what focal lengths are best for shooting a few kinds of subjects including wildlife, sports, travel, and architecture.

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For bird photography, we generally recommend lenses that reach 600mm or more. That’s because birds often perch very high up in trees, but you need the same level of zoom when trying to safely get pictures of other wild animals.

Typically, for an interchangeable lens camera, the most cost-effective way to reach that far is to go with a zoom like a 100–400mm (and pair it with a 1.4x or 2x teleconverter) or a 150–600mm. These lenses are more costly than a lot of others but worth it when the alternative might be getting mauled by a mountain lion.

In this scenario, you should look for something like a 16–35mm lens, or even a 14–24mm. A lot of people also opt for single focal length (aka prime) lenses for very wide-angle photography. So, you might also consider a 14mm lens.

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Whether you’re shopping for a new camera or just want a new lens for a body you already own, you should be thinking about how much zoom (or, more accurately, which focal lengths) you need for the subjects you want to capture.

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If you want to start vlogging, we have suggestions for gear that’ll help you capture the best video you can get, even from a smartphone.