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What is collimator in X ray

That's what I did with the 130M but really struggled to get it back on as it has nuts on the inside and I couldn't find a way to hold the nut while I screwed it in. I ended up removing the screws mentioned above to take the centre section of the cell out. I could then reattach the outer section before putting the centre part with the mirror back in. So based on that, it seems to be easier to just remove the centre part of the primary cell. Scope will obviously need collimating after that.

What is collimation in radiology

Yes that would cause an issue, but strange? Of the only two scopes I've owned, the screws pass through the tube into the edge of the mirror cell, no captive nuts, nuts go on bolts!

collimator is used for?

So did you mark a spot on the mirror through the centre hole in the folded paper and then put the ring binder sticker over the top?

Before centre spotting of telescope mirrors was common primaries were collimated using a basic sight tube (which is just a Cheshire without the cross hairs) and final collimation was done with a star test, in those days though the optics were generally slower, typically f8 or slower and were more forgiving of mis-collimation, fast optics need greater accuracy which is when centre spotting became more important.

I used a lens pen. Im a bit gun hoe at times and took the line of...its such a small area its not going to effect the scope.

Remove the mirror and apply your own centre spot, you can use an expensive manufactured spot like the CatsEye from FLO or use an inexpensive self-stick plastic ring binder reinforcement ring that you find in the stationary dept at W H Smith etc.

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If you don't center spot it you can still collimate. Do the secondary mirror first. Then estimate the center using a Hotech laser collimator. Then "feel around" for where the dead center is - you'll know once you hit it cos you'll get a nice thin red cross, perfectly symetric, reflected off the primary mirror. Takes a little time to master and you'll need bobs knobs - but it is doable once mastered. You can refine using the "barlowed laser" technique.

Now, turn the acetate over, keep it taught and carefully hold it above the mirror so that the outer marking corresponds with the outside of the mirror then lower the centre spot into place, press firmly to make the spot stick and gently peel away the acetate to leave the ring fixed in place.

Collimating mirrordiy

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The 'P' in 130P suggests the mirror is paraboloid, which is better than just a spherical mirror, and a centre spot may aid in your accuracy when setting up.....the other designation for 'P' is Pyrex! However, my old Celestron did not have a 'P' mirror and subsequently no spot? I stripped, cleaned, spotted and rebuilt the scope, and it was no better than doing the collimation, sight alone using the guide supplied in the manual!

I find it easiest to remove the whole cell ( Skyliner 200P ) by removing  the screws around the circumference! Its possible to take my mirror out for dusting, and re-fit without changing the collimation.

Use a sheet of clear copy acetate or tracing paper to put over the mirror and trace over the outline of the mirror with a wipe away non-permanent marker to gauge it's size, remove the acetate from the mirror.

Simplest answer is to centre spot it yourself! I recently did this on my SkyWatcher 130M. Should be the same process for your scope. I documented my experience and all the vary references on this thread. Assuming your scope is the same as mine, you can remove the 3 adjusting screws and 3 locking screws from the back of the primary cell to get the mirror out. This is much easier than taking the 4 four screws out around the outside. Everything else you need to know should be on the thread below. If not, ask away

Collimatinglens

Yes that is exactly what I did. If I think I just used one of the kids felt tip pens and then wiped it off afterwards. I thought about using a tipex pen and just leaving this as a single spot but didnt have it to hand at the time. Not sure how tipex would deal with condensation.

Next, apply a tiny piece of Blutack or piece of unused postage stamp folded back on itself and moistened to make it sticky to the front, non-sticky side of the hole reinforcement ring and attach the ring exactly to the centre marking on the acetate so that the sticky side of the ring is facing up.

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When I did mine I took the mirror out placed upside down on some plain paper and traced around the edge. Cut the circle out and folded into 1/4 and made a small hole in the middle. Placed this over the mirror and used the hole to make the center with marker.

types of x-ray collimator

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Yes that is exactly what I did. If I think I just used one of the kids felt tip pens and then wiped it off afterwards. I thought about using a tipex pen and just leaving this as a single spot but didnt have it to hand at the time. Not sure how tipex would deal with condensation.

Collimating mirrormeaning

I used a lens pen. Im a bit gun hoe at times and took the line of...its such a small area its not going to effect the scope.

When I did mine I took the mirror out placed upside down on some plain paper and traced around the edge. Cut the circle out and folded into 1/4 and made a small hole in the middle. Placed this over the mirror and used the hole to make the center with marker.

I've just acquired a 130P and it has no centre spot and wondering how I'm going to collimate the primary. Is there some trick or technique to get some sort of accuracy? I know how to collimate with a spot as I also have a 130PDS and used to own a 200P, I just can't see how I'm going to get the same level of accuracy.

If its a Skywatcher 130P then page 22 is the start, and basically, using a modified dust cap or 35mm film cap method, sight on a star then check and adjust if required. This keeps the task simple but efficient. There's no despair about touching/removing the mirror in-case of damage. Unless the spot has detached, and  actually requires  a new one, thats your choice. I have seen them with spots, not sure if their factory fitted or user.

Next, measure the diameter of the hole reinforcement ring, adjust the compass to that diameter and using the same centre hole in the acetate mark out the diameter of the ring reinforcement with the permanent marker.

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use of collimator in x-ray

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Thanks Guys. Oddsocks another fabulously detailed explanation, appreciate that. Ok so looks like adding the centre spot is what's needed for an accurate collimation. If I just wanted a rough collimation though without adding a centre spot, what's the deal here, anyway I can do this?

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I find it easiest to remove the whole cell ( Skyliner 200P ) by removing  the screws around the circumference! Its possible to take my mirror out for dusting, and re-fit without changing the collimation.

If you don't center spot it you can still collimate. Do the secondary mirror first. Then estimate the center using a Hotech laser collimator. Then "feel around" for where the dead center is - you'll know once you hit it cos you'll get a nice thin red cross, perfectly symetric, reflected off the primary mirror. Takes a little time to master and you'll need bobs knobs - but it is doable once mastered.

by JM Park · 2008 · Cited by 28 — due to the existence of photonic band gaps (PBGs) [1, 2, 3, 4]. Moreover, it is well known that self-collimated beams of light can propagate with almost no ...

One thing for sure, you'll learn pretty quick (or not) how these scopes are assembled and how they work, if you go ahead and spot the mirror.  When I spotted the Celestron, I used one of those paper ring binder strengthener's. Looked the part, but I did not experience any improvement with the spherical mirror.

Next, measure the mirror diameter size accurately from the marking on the acetate and wipe the marking off the acetate, then use a compass to mark out accurately the outside dimension of the mirror on to the acetate using a permanent marker.