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This filter is called Standard IR filter for a reason. If you are unsure about which filter to choose, take this one. It is a good compromise between false color and Black & White. For example, you can achieve the infrared blue sky effect, and you can achieve nice black and white conversions. This is the filter I used in most of my converted cameras.

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Kolari Vision created this filter in order to replicate the look of the famous Kodak Aerochrome IR film. This film was famous for creating blue skies with vibrant reddish foliage – a look which is totally different from every other IR film (or even digital filter). This filter can produce stunning effects, if you don’t overuse it.

With this filter, I was unable to use a grey card to set manual white balance on my OM-D E-M1. I tried a white card and two different grey cards. But all I got was an error message that the camera was unable to determine the correct white balance.

I honestly wonder how you would notice CA with a 830nm filter, given there is basically no color information left in the picture? My experience was usually the opposite: Every optical defect gets amplified when the cutoff frequency increases. Have you tried removing the CA in Lightroom?

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Doing the infrared filter comparison was a really interesting exercise for me. While I am using the filters all the time, there was still something new I learned from this comparison.

I will not claim that this is the ultimate infrared filter comparison, there are just too many variations on the market. But I believe I have covered the most important ones. For completeness, let’s quickly look at what else is currently offered by the usual conversion companies:

I hope you found this comparison helpful and you were able to take away something from it. What is your favorite IR filter? Do you use a full spectrum camera or a permanent conversion? Let us know by leaving a comment! Also, if you know of a high quality UV & IR Blocker filter which does not create issues with wide-angle lenses, please leave a comment and let me know!

Disadvantage: they are more difficult to change in the field than front-mount filters, and they expose the sensor to dust and crud while being changed.

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Since we have a camera available with full spectrum capabilities, let’s see what the results look like, when we use the camera without any filter at all!

For a given lens, i notice chromatic aberration (CA) is worse with IR spectrum than with visual light. i.e. My IR photos have worse edge image quality than my normal photos. Similarly, 720nm results in slightly worse CA than 830nm.

CMOS sensorSamsung

The purpose of this filter is to use a full spectrum converted camera like you would an unmodified camera, by blocking both the UV and IR parts of the light – just like a regular filter in front of your sensor would do.

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Until now, I have only used filters in front of my lens. Rear-mount filters are planned for my next conversion, but I don’t have a timeline for that.

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More expensive versions of this filter type use a single layer, which does not produce the wide angle effect. Before buying such a filter, ask the producer if the filter can be used with wide angle lenses. In short, for any filter of this type below 100$/€ you can assume that it is a dual layer type and will likely not work with wide angle lenses.

The first lesson was that the exposure impact of a Deep B&W IR filter was much greater than I had expected. Another learning lesson was that using a full spectrum camera without a filter does not make a lot of sense. 😄

There is not a lot of difference between using foliage and using a grey card for white balance. However, I do like the grey card version a little bit better, it appears to produce a wider tonal range.

The examples suggest to use foliage for white balance, for the lack of alternatives. For my taste, the foliage is still too blue, even after a manual white balance. But honestly – this is the perfect basis for a blue sky channel swap.

Advantage: being mounted in the camera body, they work with every lens you own; you don’t need to buy a different filter for every lens size you have.

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Some companies offer what they call a “Super/Ultra Blue” filter. It is a Standard IR filter which also allows some blue light to pass through to the sensor. The only purpose of such a filter is to get the “Infrared Blue Sky” effect straight out of the camera.

Robert is an enthusiast amateur photographer from Austria with a preference for black & white and infrared photography. He is an active member of the Austrian Association of Wildlife and Nature Photography (VTNÖ). In his spare time, he likes to take pictures and write about various photographic topics. More about Robert.

For this infrared filter comparison, I have used my Olympus OMD-EM1, which I had converted to full spectrum in 2016. If you don’t know what that means, I recommend reading my introduction into IR Photography first. In addition to three different standard IR filters, I have also tested a special IR filter and an IR Neutralizer. More on the filters below.

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It is hard to believe, but this filter was the one which took me the longest to find a working example. I started with a Heliopan version, only to find out that it does not work with wide angle lenses. For anything wider than 35mm equivalent, the corners and borders started showing a blue / cyan color cast.

There is not a lot of difference between using foliage and using a grey card for white balance. However, using the grey card results in more blue in the foliage, which will produce nicer results if you want to apply the blue sky effect.

I’m just wondering if, quality-wise, there is any drawback to having the filter in the camera body, rather than on the front of the lens.

Even with a full spectrum converted camera, your choice of infrared filter will affect the exposure. Let’s have a look at the pictures I took above and see how the exposure differs. Since the ISO and the aperture was fixed, the only thing that changed between the exposures was the shutter speed:

Okay, this is easy – a grey card is the recommended way to get correct color balance with an IR Chrome filter. The sky was not very blue on the day I took the test pictures, usually you can see more blue in the sky which makes the result a lot more attractive.

This is the filter to use when you are looking for the dreamy Black & White infrared look. With this filter, there is no color information left in the picture. Out of the camera, this filter will give you strong contrasts with dark skies and white foliage.

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Would you like to know which IR filters are available and how they differ? This infrared filter comparison provides answers and additional tips.

There seems to be a reason why the camera makers put a UV & IR blocking filter in front of their sensors. 😉 The only decent output is produced when using a grey card, but the result is still flat and somehow off color-wise. Only recommended for demonstration purposes!

Now we have evidence that the 830nm filter has a significant impact on your ability to handhold your camera, even in direct sunlight. With this additional piece of information, I no longer recommend using strong IR filters (800nm or higher), unless you have a specific need or reason for it.

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Please note that this comparison is not only valid for full spectrum converted cameras where you put a filter in front of your lens. It also applies to conversions with a selected filter type, the only difference is the lack of ability to change the filter type.

Roger, it might be the IR sensitivity of the sensor or the filter itself which caused the difference. And you are right, the lighting conditions might have somehow contributed as well. It was a surprising finding for me too, but I looked back at pictures I took earlier with the same camera, and the differences were similar. Thank you for the comment about the PDAF lines, tbh this is the first time I heard about such an issue. Having converted mostly older cameras, I didn’t experienced this issue so far, but I appreciate the heads-up.

I have seen older black and white style color filters such as Hoya 25a, yk2 etc.. How do thsoe style filters differ from the much more expensive ir filters?

This was confirmed by Heliopan in an email, but is – until today – not mentioned on their website. To clarify, the reason seems to be that some manufacturers use two different optical layers in their UV & IR blocking filters to cut out both the UV and the IR parts. These versions – which can be produced cheaper – generate the wide angle effect I described above.

Thank you for sharing your workflow and your filter choices. To your question: In my opinion it doesn’t make sense to test in-camera vs. post-processed B&W pictures, for multiple reasons:

Disclaimer: While I mention the brands I use myself, please note that this is not an endorsement. I do not receive any compensation from these companies, they are listed for informational purposes only. In general, I recommend known high-quality brands when you want to purchase a good IR filter. Just stay away from any cheap offers, they will likely not produce the result you expected.

An additional reason to prefer 720nm filters over 850nm is that, on cameras with PDAF autofocus, you are more likely to see lines corresponding to the lines in which the PDAF sensors are located, which ruins a picture. This effect is most noticeable in plain areas (usually sky) when the image contrast is increased in post-processing. I stopped using 850nm on a Sony A7R2 for this reason. The stronger filter can still be used (you may blame the lines on over-processing), but my view is that 850nm is not advisable on dull days if you are likely to want to boost contrast.

At least one company offers what they call a Hyper Color IR filter, the equivalent of a 470nm filter. This filter allows nearly all of the the visible light spectrum to reach the sensor. While it can create some different-looking false color IR pictures, I find the results rather disappointing. But you may have a special reason for using this filter type.

This specific IR filter is somewhat of a hybrid between what is known as Enhanced and Super Color filter. This is a filter where a lot of (false) color information is retained, compared to the other two standard IR filters. The Blue Sky effect is much more pronounced, compared to the 715nm filter. For Black & White, it is usable but the contrasts are less pronounced, especially when compared to the 830nm filter. Use this filter if you like infrared pictures with a lot of color in them.

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Interesting article though I wonder whether the results may be sensitive to the lighting conditions (and the camera sensor?), as I never noticed such a large difference between 850nm and 720nm. Its a long time ago that I did a comparison, but I thought I found nearer a 1 stop difference. But maybe I mis-remember or did not do my testing sufficiently carfully.

For a Lightroom profile which boosts the contrasts of your Deep B&W Infrared filter, read this section of my post about setting proper infrared white balance in Lightroom.

Super hands-on, minimal high-tech article – thank you. Not being a PC nerd and not wanting to flat-butt myself post processing, I switch my cameras to black and white mode and even often go with auto WB. Friends & I like the results. I used an 830 conversion once and sent it back pronto to change to 760 (my choice between 720 & 800+) for hand holding; add 830 filter and 3pod for heavy duty B&W (like lotsa clouds). I use a Sony A7R/FS w/occasional 803 in-body filter, a pocket Canon PowerShot/760, T3i/720 and 5DIII/720. Now selling a Sony A7/720 on eB! Bottom line: Have/can you test(ed) in-camera B&W vs. post processed B&W? You might even throw in JPEG vs. RAW comments, though little or no color channels to manipulate with in-body B&W. Thanks again!

The camera was mounted on a tripod and set to aperture priority, with an aperture of f/5.6 and a fixed ISO value of 200. The lens I used was my Olympus 12-100mm f/4.0 PRO at 18mm – a full frame equivalent of about 35mm.

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This comparison is supposed to give you an idea about the various types of infrared filters available on the market. The filters I used for the test can be seen at the top of this post. From left to right / top to bottom: 850nm IR, 715nm IR, 610nm IR, UV & IR Blocker, IR Chrome.

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Personally, I don’t have experience with older IR filters. Generally speaking, newer filters have better coatings to avoid reflections – which is really useful, especially for IR photography. But ultimately, you will have to compare them side-by-side with newer filters of the same type for a meaningful comparison.

For each filter, I have listed the technical details and some general comments on its usage scenario. Then you will see three different white balance examples: auto white balance, white balance on foliage / green and white balance using a grey card. All the white balance examples shown are directly out-of-camera, without any further processing.

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What speaks for the 830 nm filter is the stronger contrast out-of-camera. What speaks for the 720nm filter is the ability to create pictures with the Blue Sky effect, if that is what you like. At that time I recommended the 720nm filter, because you can always increase the contrast in post-processing.

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For a long time, I wanted to do an infrared filter comparison, but never found the time for it. Finally, on a day with good infrared shooting conditions, I took one of my converted cameras and took shots of my backyard, using all the filters available to me.

A reader of my Infrared Photography Tutorial asked if he should go with a 720nm or a 830nm permanent conversion, when all he wanted was Black & White pictures.

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Please note that this is not about infrared lens performance, I have a separate article comparing the infrared performance of Olympus MFT lenses. Also, if you are interested in how your choice of aperture can influence the quality of your infrared pictures, I have an article about diffraction in infrared photography and how you can avoid it.

If this is what gets you exited and all you ever plan to take pictures of, this is your choice. I would rather choose one of the other infrared filter types, as they provide a lot more flexibility. The Infrared Blue Sky effect is actually easy to create, I have described the process in my article How to Create the Infrared Blue Sky Effect in Lightroom.

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Do you find this infrared filter comparison helpful? To show your appreciation, why not buy me a coffee? ☕ No subscription. No further obligations. Just a quick and simple sign of gratitude. 🙏