The Enhanced Wired Controller creates a reasonably comparable experience to the standard Xbox Series X controller. Aside from the wired connection, which provides the standard performance benefits and potentially inconvenient logistical limitations, there are very few times where I noticed what controller I was using. That may sound derisive, but it’s an endorsement: Since the controller costs nearly half as much as the first-party default, “comparable” is a significant achievement.

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Because the light is brightest nearest the LEDs, it's common for edge-lit LED LCDs to have poor uniformity. This is especially noticeable on dark scenes, where areas of the screen will appear brighter than others. Corners or edges can have what looks like tiny flashlights shining on the screen. Check out Is LED LCD Uniformity a Problem? for more.

Nearly all "backlit" LED LCDs use this method. The LEDs are arrayed on the back of the TV, facing you, but there is no processing to dim them individually. They work instead as a uniform backlight, like most CCFL LCDs. The least expensive LED LCDs use this method, as do most of Sharp's ultra-massive LED LCDs. Uniformity is generally better than edge-lit displays, but because there's no local dimming at all, the native contrast ratio is limited to the LCD panel itself (which is typically much lower than the native contrast of a plasma TV).

Despite the back buttons and the word “Enhanced’ in the name, the PowerA Enhanced Wired Controller feels “standard” in just about every way. It’s not an upgrade over the great controller you’ll get with a Series X or Series S, but it’s a cheap and very functional backup controller for couch co-op, or a replacement if you find yourself in need.

Backlight lighting

Along the bottom This design has all the LEDs along the bottom of the TV. Though manufacturers don't like to reveal how many LEDs they use, this is likely the type with the least number of LEDs.

LED deep dimming is the process of dimming the light emitted by an LED smoothly and without flicker while maintaining lighting uniformity.

The two biggest-selling TV makers in the U.S. are Samsung and Vizio, and neither has sold a full-array local-dimming LED TV for the last couple years. At CES 2013, Samsung's only such TV announced was the insanely-expensive Ultra HD showpiece UN85S9, while Vizio once again went with edge-lighting for its flagship. Vizio is claiming some of it's 2013 TVs have local dimming, but David Katzmaier recently tested one such model, the E420i-A1, saying "Sure, black levels get darker, but the trade-off in shadow detail is one I'm not willing to make," and concluded that its "local dimming does nothing to improve picture quality."

In general, I have mixed feelings about the utility of putting audio inputs on controllers: On the one hand, it’s easier to make adjustments on the fly with them than with a headset’s onboard controls. On the other, the controls only work with 3.5mm wired headsets that you plug into the controller, which fewer and fewer headsets use as their preferred means of connection. The audio controls do not impact the controller negatively at all, so it isn’t as if I don’t appreciate their presence, but their value is actually more niche than you might realize at a glance.

The PowerA Enhanced Wired Controller for Xbox Series X/S is available now for $34.99 though the PowerA digital store and retailers, including Amazon.

Each manufacturer has a preferred method for edge-lighting, but some models may feature one type, while other models feature another type. Generally speaking, the fewer LEDs the cheaper the TV is to produce. Fewer LEDs also mean better energy efficiency, but LED LCDs are already so efficient that this is a tiny improvement. Unfortunately, specific details about where a TV's LEDs are located (beyond "direct" or "edge"), the number of LEDs, and other useful information about the backlighting, are rarely listed on a TV's spec sheet.

LEDStrip lights

At $34.99, it’s just a little over half the $59.99 of the standard Xbox Series X controller. Even if you care more about convenience than performance, and see a hardline tether as a flaw, it’s easier to accept as a concession that keeps money in your wallet. And, as it turns out, the Enhanced Wired Controller Series X is a perfectly passable controller. Though certain aspects of it look and/or feel exactly like the knockoff you’d expect, it performs well in all the ways that count, and offers a couple of useful extra features, to boot.

Thanks to their very prominent placement, I found myself integrating the back buttons into my play organically more often than with other controllers. They’re very easy to use and easy on the hands. They’re also easy to flick accidentally so don’t use them anything too critical. (I accidentally skipped some dialogue a few times when I had “B” mapped to the right back button).

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There are a few places where you can feel the difference, though. The “grips” on the handles are purely cosmetic, etched into the plastic. Likewise, the analog sticks have textured rims, but aren’t rubberized for grip as they would be on most gear. They will not help your hands steady as you move around the gamepad, or prevent slippage when your hands get sweaty. The D-pad, a simple cross, feels a bit squishy. There’s a strong tactile bump when you press, which is good, but the directional spokes sink a bit when you make a full press.

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Playing long multi-hour stretches of Cyberpunk 2077, the controller felt good in-hand. The analog sticks felt snappy, so my movement and aim felt precise. Aside from the bumpers, whose wobble and hard edges are mildly unpleasant, the buttons and triggers all felt comfortable. You only use the D-pad occasionally in Cyberpunk, but I found myself pressing the directions a little longer than I would have with other controllers.

I had a similar experience with Call of Duty: Black Ops Cold War multiplayer. Responsive analog stick movement made my movement and aim feel natural. After switching from a high-end third-party controller with configuration software that lets you fine-tune your analog sticks, there were times when the certain movements, like horizontal movement on the right stick, felt sluggish: When I went back to the standard Series X controller, though, the action was very similar.

C-ya CCFL, hellllo LED Traditional LCDs use CCFLs, or cold-cathode florescent lamps, as their backlight. While cheap, they're not as energy efficient as LEDs. More importantly, all contain mercury, and aren't able to do some of the fancy area-lighting of which some LED backlit models are capable. Because of these issues and the falling prices of LEDs, CCFL backlit LCD TVs will disappear entirely very soon. In 2013 LG and Sony proudly announced they'd stopped using CCFL backlights altogether, even in their cheapest TVs, in favor of LEDs. Vizio, Samsung, Sharp, Toshiba, and Panasonic weren't as vocal about it, but none has announced any non-LED-backlit TVs for 2013.

However, they basically don't exist. The Elite by Sharp looks amazing, but came out in 2011 and hasn't been updated (with no rumors of a replacement on the horizon). The LG LM9600 wasn't great last year, and LG has yet to announce any full-array local-dimming TVs for 2013. The only other local-dimming LED LCD was the Sony HX950, which was excellent, and is still current. In his review David Katzmaier called it "the best, and maybe the last, local-dimming LED TV to bear the Sony name."

LEDBacklight for TV that changes with picture

All Sides used to be the most common edge-lighting method. But as the light guides improved, and costs had to come down (to make cheaper LED LCDs), this method became fairly rare.

LEDlights

The so-called "blooming" that plagued early local-dimming LED LCDs has been greatly reduced. With the better TVs, there are few artifacts like these images. Instead, the processing errs on the side of safety, not allowing adjacent LEDs to get too different in brightness, so as not to have issues like you see here. The flip side of that is less "punch" in the image, as bright objects on an otherwise dark background don't appear as bright. So in our moon example, the moon itself is as dim as the background, where on a full-array local-dimming LED LCD, or on a plasma or OLED, it would be noticeably brighter.

As you can see, there's still some areas lit that shouldn't be, but it's a lot better. The idea with local dimming is you want as small and precise an area as possible (ideally, per-pixel, but that's not feasible with current technology). Remember, it's hardly ever going to look this severe, I'm merely illustrating the point so you can see it.

Got a question for Geoff? First, check out all the other articles he's written on topics like HDMI cables, LED LCD vs. plasma, Active vs Passive 3D, and more. Still have a question? Send him an e-mail! He won't tell you what TV to buy, but he might use your letter in a future article. You can also send him a message on Twitter: @TechWriterGeoff.

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So what does this mean? Well, there's a limit to how aggressive manufactures can program the local dimming. Imagine a night landscape with a bright full moon. Ideally, the moon is bright, and the rest of the scene is dark. With plasmas, OLEDs, and full-array local-dimming LED LCDs (more on these later), the moon's brightness is independent of the rest of the image. With bottom-lit LED LCDs, however, in order to make the moon bright, the LEDs that are lighting that entire vertical section of screen have to be bright. So in most cases, everything below the moon (in our example) would be brighter than the surrounding image. Here's a Photoshopped (and exaggerated) demonstration of what this can look like.

Most LED LCDs on the market today are edge-lit, which means the LEDs are in the sides of the TV, facing in toward the screen. In the image at the top, the LED strips are above and to the side of this exploded-view of an LCD panel. There's a close-up view here (full article with more images here).

There are a few models that are have their LEDs arrayed on the back of the TV, facing you. These are less common, though are making a comeback in the form of cheaper, but thicker, mostly low-end LED LCDs. There are a handful of high-end TVs that use full-array LED backlighting in a slightly different way, which we'll discuss later.

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Backlit with local dimming This is the ultimate LED LCD, offering performance that rivals the better plasmas. Like the "direct-lit" TVs, these have their LEDs behind the screen (the image above for direct-lit works as a visual aid for this type as well). The full local-dimming aspect means the TV is able to dim zones behind the dark areas of the screen in fairly specific areas to make the image really pop, drastically increasing the apparent contrast ratio.

Edge-lit LEDs have a light guide that helps reflect the light from the edges of the TV somewhat uniformly across the screen. They do this with varying success. To give you an idea of what I'm talking about, here's an incredibly well-drawn diagram from that article that shows how these light guides work.

All so-called LED TVs are really just LCD TVs that use LEDs for their backlight. This backlight creates the light that allows the LCD to create an image. However, there are multiple ways these LED backlights can be arranged, and that arrangement can have a dramatic effect on picture quality.

TVbackLights that Sync with TV

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Though TVs of this style claim to have "local dimming" you can see how this is a pretty broad definition of "local." Even if each LED is dimmable independently (highly unlikely), you're still only able to dim columns that stretch from top to bottom. Something like this:

Build quality is also a concern. The bumpers and triggers are made from a glossy hard plastic, which feel fine while you’re playing, but seem a bit flimsy. The bumpers, in particular, wiggle a bit right out of the box. I’ve only used the controller for about four days and there haven’t been any problems, but after a lifetime of using controllers I wouldn’t expect the Bumpers’ to last for many years, or endure much abuse.

BacklightLED

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Though I primarily see the Enhanced Wired Controller as a budget-friendly alternative to the standard controller, it does have a couple of useful extra features. Like the Enhanced Wired Xbox One controller, it has a pair of programmable rear buttons, angled at the base of the handles where your middle fingertips naturally rest. You can program the buttons to replicate any of the face buttons, bumpers, or triggers using the program button in the center of the controller’s back. That functionality, while limited compared to the Xbox Elite: Series 2, is standard for most third-party Xbox controllers. Though simple, it’s one of the best two-button rear input designs I’ve used: They feel more intuitive than most rear buttons and paddles, which makes it easy for anyone to pick up and use without any practice or awkward acclimation period.

New to the Series X model, the Enhanced Wired Controller now has a large, transparent headset audio control switch at the bottom of the gamepad. Hovering just over the 3.5mm headphone jack, the dial allows you to adjust a wired headset’s volume by pressing left or right, and mute its microphone by pressing it in.

Aside from the MicroUSB-powered detachable cable and a few extra buttons, the PowerA Enhanced Wired Controller looks and feels very similar to the standard Series X controller. The chassis measures 6.00 x 4.13 x 2.53 inches (WDH), just a hair larger than the standard Series X controller. Weighing 208 grams, it’s deceptively light: I wouldn’t describe it as especially light in my hands, but it weighs substantially less than the Series X controller (287g). The key takeaway here is that you really don’t feel the controller in your hands at all.

The biggest difference between all the LED back/edge-lighting methods is how effective their "local dimming" is, which as you'll see, has become a pretty broad term.

Bottom line Edge-lit LED LCDs look cool and are energy efficient, but have wildly different picture quality potential. Since contrast ratio is the most important factor in picture quality, the better the local dimming, the better the apparent contrast ratio of the TV. Though backlit local dimming is theoretically the best, some edge-lit models (like last year's HX850) do such a good job with their less-than-ideal LED placement that they can look fantastic.

Now that wireless controllers are the standard, there are two reasons to get a wired controller. At this point, most manufacturers spin it as a means to ensure a stable connection that minimizes input lag and lost inputs. But there’s another, more obvious reason – it’s cheaper. PowerA’s Enhanced Wired Controller for Xbox Series X/S, the next-gen version of its wired Xbox One gamepad, leans heavily on that second consideration.

Top and bottomAs you can guess, this design has LEDs on the top and bottom edges of the screen. The local dimming here is a little better, where the zones can be slightly smaller areas of the screen, like this:

All sides This is a less common method now, as it requires more LEDs than any of the other edge-lighting methods. The local dimming can get a little more accurate, but is still limited to large-ish zones. If we used our moon example image, the result with an all-sides edge-lit would look just like top and bottom. But with regular video (that has more light sources than just the moon), it will have a more zones to work with, sort of like this:

The Enhanced Wired Controller feels nearly identical to Xbox controllers in many key respects: The core button, trigger, and stick layouts are the same. Its face buttons have a touch more travel, but have a similar tactile press. The sticks have the same responsiveness. Since this an Xbox Series X update, a small round version of the Series X/S controller’s new share button features prominently at the center of the face, just below the Xbox button.

As I mentioned at the top, there's no easy way to tell, just by looking at a spec sheet, what kind of backlight a TV has. By extension, there's no way to tell how good its local dimming will be. Bad local dimming can, at worst, just be marketing hyperbole. At best, it does little to improve the picture. Good local dimming, however, can make a punchy image, with lots of apparent depth and realism. Or to put it differently, the best LCDs on the market have the best local dimming, allowing them to rival plasmas on the picture quality front. The better TV reviews, like ahem those here on CNET, will talk about all this, so you're not duped into paying for a "feature" that's little more than a check mark on a spec sheet.