When you’ve finished your dry clean, take a test shot and see if any spots remain. If the dry clean worked, you are finished. If not, you may need to wet clean your sensor. See directions for wet cleaning below.

You can purchase a cleaning kit online that includes everything you need. When you’re ready to clean your sensor, gather your tools and follow the steps below.

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Now you know how to care for your sensor, but did you know your lens needs maintenance too? Learn how to get started with lens maintenance here.

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We present the lights in three sections: Ultraviolet, Visible and Infrared.   While the human eye can see some UV and in the infrared past 900nm, we can't see well in these ranges.  Most people can see a bright 850nm infrared LED as a dull red glow.  We have performed experiments showing that the 850nm red glow is not a slight emission in the visible red, but is the human eye actually responding to the infrared light source.

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Taking care of your equipment in general is important, but you may be wondering why your camera sensor needs to be maintained specifically. You might not have realized it, but everytime you change lenses, your camera sensor is exposed to dust. Dust is a problem that every photographer has to deal with. No matter how careful you are, it always seems to find its way in.

Before you manually clean your sensor, see if your camera has an auto-clean mode. If it does, this may be the only step you need to take. In some cases the dust remains even after auto-cleaning, and you must either take your camera to a technician.

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These flashlights are single precision LED lights where the LED's have been measured with a spectrometer and light integration sphere.  While manufacturer's specifications are useful, we have found that often the actual LED peak frequency is not exactly the same as specified on the manufacturer's datasheet.  Further complicating the matter is that some LED's output power is stated in millicandelas (mcd) while others use millwatts per radian.

This is why ultraviolet and infrared lights are not measured in millicandelas - their millicandela value would be zero if we can't see the light.  For this reason, we decided to use a uniform system of using the light sources total microwatts (uWatt) of output power using a calibrated light integration sphere and spectrometer.  A light integration sphere part of a light measuring apparatus.  The sphere looks like a hollow ball with a special white coating inside that reflects all light frequencies evenly.  The sphere has two openings.  One for a fiber optic cable that is also connected to a spectrometer and the other opening is where you shine the light source.  Prior to measuring anything, the sphere, fiber optic cable and spectrometer must be calibrated with a special calibrated light source.

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Millicandela measurements are based on candela, candlepower, lux or lumen units.  1000 millcandela = 1 candela.  The problem with millicandela type measurements is that the concept is based on how well the human eye sees a particular color (wavelength) and the output power of the light.  Since the human eye sees green the best, a light with pure green will be easier to see than a red or blue light.  All other things being equal, the green light will have a higher millicandela rating.

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When you’ve finished your wet clean, take a test shot and see if any spots remain. If there are remaining spots, consult a professional.

The measurement provides a consistent total output power measurement as well as a graph showing you the spectral distribution of power.  Keep in mind that there is variation between LED's so if you need an exact measurement, you should get a custom spectral measurement made on the particular lights you purchase.  Also, keep in mind that the total energy is a function of microwatts and frequency.  A 400nm 10 millwatt light has more energy than a 700nm 10 milliwatt light because the shorter 400nm light waves have more energy.  The shorter the wavelength, the high the energy.

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There are some telltale signs that your sensor is dirty and needs to be cleaned. If you’re not sure, see if any of the following issues sound familiar:

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Dust can settle on your camera lens, camera body, or on your camera’s sensor or mirror. When dust settles on the camera sensor, it can cause damage to every image you take while the sensor is dirty. Your camera’s sensor is vulnerable to dust every time you change a lens, zoom, or are in a dirty environment.

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Basic sensor maintenance should be a part of your photography equipment care routine. Take note of whether or not your sensor needs attention when cleaning and servicing your camera equipment, because staying on top of it means you won’t be waiting for problems to arise before you start giving your equipment (including your sensor) a little TLC!

Your camera sensor is delicate and should be handled with care. Maintaining your sensor means that your incredible captures won’t be ruined or disrupted by dark spots. By taking the time to care for your sensors, you ensure that your images remain blemish-free.

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If you notice the below symptoms between routine maintenance services, you need to clean your sensor. A little dust can ruin the perfect image, or force you to take time retouching it. Cleaning your sensor is worth the trouble.

The camera sensor is a fragile part of any camera, and must be handled with extreme care. If you don’t feel comfortable cleaning it yourself, we highly suggest you take your camera to be serviced by a professional camera technician. Self-cleaning comes with risks and may void your warranty, so if you decide to clean your own sensor, you must be willing to accept the associated risks.