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I was recently looking through some of my old game miniatures and terrain and found some pieces of “scatter terrain” that I’d made for the awesome post-apocalyptic car combat game Gaslands (think: Mad Max). These are probably some of the best pieces I’ve ever modeled and painted and I have no memory of the colors, techniques, and tricks I used (it was many years ago). I now kick myself for not taking notes. A decade ago, I was really good about keeping a Cahiers notebook with notes from my projects, what parts and techniques I’d employed. Because of that, I can still recreate those projects today. Seeing these successful terrain pieces has caused me to re-dedicate myself to keeping project notes and recipes, paint colors used, key learnings, etc. moving forward. Above is a notebook I made years ago for keeping shop notes in my garage. It hangs from a pegboard there.

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F Buggenthin · 2013 · 188 — (ii) Quantifying cell morphology in bright field images yields the possibility to measure more descriptive features such as texture and shape ...

Hi Gareth... Always enjoy your newsletter. I don’t do a lot of projects that involve hammering but I have a new hammer I’m excited to share. I know there are reasons for long handles, but this hammer with a short handle is perfect for my 72 year old hands. The soft grippy handle is easy to hold. I have not tried the magnetic nail starter — it wasn’t a feature I was particularly interested in, but who knows? I may love it. Less than $10 on Amazon.

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I am so thrilled by the new paid subscribers I got after announcing a drawing to win a Workpro 18-in-1 multitool (my new favorite thing). I will be doing that drawing on Nov 9, so if you want a chance to win, please consider a paid sub. Paying for a subscription is a great way to keep my newsletter going and growing.I even got a Hero of the Realm subscriber! Thanks to Jim Coraci for supporting this effort. Be on the lookout for some fun goodies in the mail, Jim.

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Our NEW Back Lit 1200mm x 600mm TRI-COLOUR LED panel lights are ideal as a direct replacement for 1200 x 600 four-tube fluorescent modular fittings.

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A word of caution: this acid (hydrofluoric) solution is for glass etching, so you CANNOT use Armour Etch on glass lenses; otherwise, you will literally etch and ruin your lenses. You must be certain you have plastic lenses. It should be safe on most polycarbonate lenses (it left mine completely unscathed). However, I’d only try this when you have nothing to lose. Always do a small test first, too. After applying the cream to a tiny spot, I went ahead and did the whole lens, coating each side for 1-2 minutes, rinsing, and then repeating. While I wore standard latex gloves and did this in a well-vented area, Armour Etch is designed for crafters, so it doesn’t require a fume hood or anything. Afterward, I rinsed the glasses for a few minutes under hot tap water, applied soap and water, and finally used a lens cloth. I was taking a big risk since I’d never done glass etching before and I wasn’t certain it would work. But it did, and I got a “like new” pair of glasses for just a few bucks!

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I love industrial training films from the mid-20th century. This one, from 1942, would have been soon after America had entered WWII, many men and women were entering the industrial workforce, and in need of training like this. Takeaway tips:Use the right file for the job. Files come in single or double cuts and various coarseness levels. Single-cut files are for smooth finishes, while double-cut files remove more excess material. Use coarse files for soft metals, fine for hard. Apply pressure only on the forward stroke to get a clean cut and prevent scratches. Use a consistent, long stroke to maintain control and accuracy. Metal chips can stick to the teeth, causing "pins" that scratch the surface. Tap your file on wood, or use a file card, to keep the surface clear for precision filing.

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I got a huge bump in subscribers after a recent Retro Recomendo newsletter mentioned me. Twice. One piece was about Gar’s Tips & Tools itself (“Each issue has several handy tidbits about interesting tools, novel ways to use tools, and how to maintain your workshop”). The other was something I wrote for Cool Tools many years ago about these house paint touch-up bottles. “After you finish painting a room, pour a little of the left-over paint into one of these small touch up bottles. The plastic bottles contain a small applicator brush inside (plus a marble to shake/stir the paint) which makes it super easy to break it out to touch up as things happen.”

In a 2018 Engineering Laboratory Exploratory Project, NIST researchers designed, fabricated and tested a transparent, water-cooled enclosure to house various ...

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A cool tool can be any book, gadget, software, video, map, hardware, material, or website that is tried and true. All reviews on this site are written by readers who have actually used the tool and others like it. Items can be either old or new as long as they are wonderful. We post things we like and ignore the rest. Suggestions for tools much better than what is recommended here are always wanted.

In this Stumpy Nubs video, James looks at tools that have become indispensable in his woodshop. While this video is directed at woodworkers, covering things like the Milescraft router Omnibase and the Accu-Burr Burnisher and Scraper, other tools, like painting pyramids and the Airshield Pro Respirator and Face Shield can apply to other domains of makery.

Long-time maker pal Geoff Meston has been quiet with the video output for awhile, but he’s back, baby! To set the stage for future YouTube videos, he has redone his workshop. In this video he clearly and methodically chronicles his build process.

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The last time I got glasses, I let the salesman talk me into the UV/Anti-Glare coating, which I’d never had before. After time, the coating began to develop tiny, really fine scratches, which kept building and building. They got so bad, I was going to get new glasses — until a friend recommended Armour Etch, a glass etching cream you can get at art/craft stores like Michael’s or Dick Blick. The way it removed the coating, leaving me with a perfectly unscratched lens, was phenomenal!! I do experience a little more glare without the coating, but I can live with that — having the scratches was driving me nuts! Instead of having to spend $100+ on new lenses, I got away with spending a little over $10!

Recently, while putting together a Swytch bike kit for my wife’s Cannondale, I stripped an M4 bolt on the kit’s battery mount. The bolt head was already below the surface so I couldn’t use my Dremel to turn it into a slotted head to back it out (a trick I have used too many times). I bumped into this product in a video and decided to give it a try. You simply apply a dollop to the head and back the bolt/screw out. I’ll be darned if it didn’t work. The main use of the product is to prevent cam-out in the first place. What is this sorcery? It’s a polyvinyl alcohol with a gritty mineral filler. As a result, it creates additional friction between the fastener head and the driver head. It basically gives you increased traction for driving in or backing out fasteners. And, as in my case, it can work to remove moderately stripped heads. Worth tossing into your toolbox.

Optische 3D-Profilometer basierend auf Kohärenz-Scaninterferometrie (CSI) von ZYGO bieten erstklassige Leistung ... Laser-Interferometer · Qualifire™neu. Verifire ...

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