A correction for the typographical error: It is the MC meter (The predecessor to the MR) that has an incident cover for its selenium cell. It also has an incident cover for its meter booster cell.

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Incident lightmetervsspot meter

All camera meters are based on reflective metering not because it's better, but because it's impossible for them to do it otherwise. With an incident meter you can easily do better, so why settle for a compromise just because cameras have to?

Choosing the best natural light fitting will depend on the room. If your bathroom or kitchen has no windows, you’ll want to select light fixtures closer to 6500K on the Kelvin scale. Natural daylight bulbs are the best option for cooking in the kitchen or doing your makeup in the bathroom.

Humans need a regular cycle of daylight and night darkness to keep a steady circadian rhythm. It can also make achieving daily tasks like cooking, reading or washing more difficult if your body isn’t in tune with this rhythm.

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You will want brighter bulbs in rooms where you perform tasks, like the kitchen and bathroom. But there is no need to install bright daylight bulbs in your living room and bedroom. Choose bulbs with a lower lumen count for these rooms.

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Now the late 1960's marked the introduction of thru the lens metering into 35mm SLR's.  I had two Nikon F bodies with the FTN  metering prism on one.  It was certainly quick and convent especially for shooting things which made getting an incident reading difficult (some sports, concerts, and other types of performances where getting on stage was a no-go).  I quickly learned to tell the difference between film shot using the Nikon F (non metered body) used with a hand held incident meter and film shot using the FTN body.  The contact strips produced with the incident meter were amazingly consistent compared to the reflected meter.

I rarely bracket exposures these days, due to the high cost of film it’s a good incentive to consider exposures carefully especially with film-hungry cameras such as my Fuji 6x9’s and 6x17.

Remember that natural sunlight changes colour temperature depending on the time of day, latitude and season. So, mimicking natural light falls on a spectrum, but anything between this range will help artificially bring natural light into your windowless room.

Ideally, you want enough natural light in your bedroom when you need to wake up and in areas of your home where you conduct tasks, like the kitchen, bathroom and home office. However, if any of those rooms don’t have access to natural daylight, you need to recreate it to mimic the effects of daylight and reap the benefits.

Reflectedmetering

The Kelvin number indicates the colour temperature a light bulb emits. All bulbs will sit on the Kelvin scale and emit LED light from cool to warm white light. You can see the warmth of light emitted on the graphic above for a clearer visual of the Kelvin scale.

All camera meters are based on reflective metering not because it's better, but because it's impossible for them to do it otherwise. With an incident meter you can easily do better, so why settle for a compromise just because cameras have to?

All camera meters are based on reflective metering, and then photographers  make adjustments based on the reading, so why switch to another method just because there isn’t a meter in the camera?

Lean towards living room and bedside natural light table lamps to brighten your bedroom and lounge. You can also use floor lamps to alter a room’s feel.

Exactly.  I could cite the old classic of trying to photograph a bride and groom, white dress, dark suit etc, on a sunny day with a ttl or hand held reflected reading.  Hardly seems worth it.

The best way to recreate daylight in your windowless room is to add different types of light that provide both stark daylight colours and warm sunrise and sunset colour temperatures to mimic the different times of the day and maintain a healthy circadian rhythm. For example, you may choose ceiling lights to provide natural daylight and a natural light lamp to mimic warmer natural light for the morning and evening.

Dark rooms with no widows can feel cold and unwelcoming. If you have a room with limited light or no natural light, it could affect your sleep pattern and mental health.

Reflectivelightmetering

Incident metering, when it is possible. No matter what the subject is, the incoming light will be measured. So you won´t have problems with

Incident almost all the time, with one of my five Sekonic L-208 meters. The only time it does not work is on an overcast day when it tends to give an overexposure.

Similarly, for a windowless home office or study, you may want a desk lamp to emit natural light to help you see your work, concentrate and feel awake.

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You must also consider your room size to determine how many light sources and lumens you need to achieve tasks and multiply it by the room’s square footage and height. Whether you have natural light lamps or overhead lights, place them strategically to provide an even amount of light throughout the room.

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Natural light will show colours how they are, which is perfect for completing tasks. Choose light fittings like spotlights and downlights for the kitchen and bathroom to bring the effects of natural light into your room.

Reflected is a little more complex. But not much more. Visualize or view the angle of coverage of the meter. Read the important part, or parts of the subject or scene. Adjust the reading as per Steve's good advice in Post #4, just above. Good exposures. Most of the time.

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So to answer your question, yes I think incident metering is the best, especially once you find the ISO that works for you.  Of course, if you use your reflected light meter with an 18 per cent grey card you can reproduce consistent results as well.

All camera meters are based on reflective metering, and then photographers  make adjustments based on the reading, so why switch to another method just because there isn’t a meter in the camera?

Reflected lightmetervs incident

Mostly yes, except when incident metering isn't possible, or when the subject is very high in contrast. I'll use a spotmeter in such cases. Otherwise the incident meter is king.

LED bulbs emit different coloured light because different materials used in the bulbs produce different photons at varying wavelengths, which appear as colours on a scale.

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If you have a windowless room devoid of daylight, fear not! Now you know how to brighten a dark room with natural light bulbs. Always think about Kelvins to get the right colour temperature and lumens to get the ideal brightness depending on the room’s purpose and size.

Traditionally, watts did indicate bulb brightness, but with the evolution of LED bulbs, lumens are a better indication of brightness.

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When Leica introduced the M6, its metering is quite good. I used it with a lot of Kodachrome and always had accurate exposures. Now I own a M4 and a M4-2 and found incident metering works best for a majority of subjects. I still use reflective metering occasionally but it’s nice to have a choice.

Most of the early on camera meter attachments like the MR or early Photomics offered a choice of both incident and reflective metering. That changed when Pentax put the meter in the body leaving reflective as the default choice. In camera meters evolved rapidly and began to offer many more modes than hand held meters. I never owned a M5 but many say the semi-spot was one of the best in camera meters.

Incidentmetering

However, if your dark room is a bedroom or living room, you may want to lean towards the warmer side of the natural light spectrum. Because you tend to use these rooms to wind down and relax, you don’t want to add daylight bulbs that mimic the colour temperature of broad daylight, and your brain won’t be able to de-stress at night. So, use artificial light that mimics a softer, warmer natural light like 4000K.

I discovered incident metering about 1972 and it has given me better more consistent negatives than I ever saw using reflected light metering.

Incident is the simplest & easiest to use. Go to the subject (Or a substitute place.) Point the hemisphere at the lens (Or a substitute place.). Push the button. Read the exposure. Good exposures. Most of the time.

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Incident readings give me accurate readings and I almost never use the reflective mode on my L-308. I’m a big fan of the 398 Studio Deluxe but the last one had a dial that would drift just enough to throw off my ISO. I did buy a Reveni spot meter for those times when taking an incident reading isn’t practical.

The first type of metering I was taught (as opposed to just matching the needle) was reflective metering as part of the Zone System. And since then I've never not thought reflective metering wasn't the most accurate metering, it allows you to place tones, and react to large changes in contrast levels, and gives you a firm basis of translating into the negative what you are aiming for. In essence reflective metering allows for having an opinion, so long as the consequences of an opinion are understood. It can often mean changing development times, or developers, but it's not as rigid as an incident light metering regimen best suited for slide film.

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All camera meters are based on reflective metering, and then photographers  make adjustments based on the reading, so why switch to another method just because there isn’t a meter in the camera?

For portraits I almost always use incident metering, landscapes are dependent on the film and/or which camera I’m using. My usual method is to take a series of spot readings from the scene for an average and use my intuition from there.

I prefer reflective simplified zone-readings. Measure the darkest area that should have full definition in the developed negative and correct it by -2 stops. Or pick any other area that you know should have a definite correction compared to middle grey if there is no important darkest area. Modern films tolerate overexposure very nicely, straight curves up to the top. But underexposed shaddows are still empty and no incident metering will tell you how dark a certain corner under a tree, where you want defintion and detail will be. Takes some time ro learn but for me the answer to the problem.